Everything posted by Caboobaroo
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Who's done the rear ebrake conversion?
yes you can use the stock calipers since the ebrake mechanism on those is external so there's no parts that are needed for the brakes to function properly.
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Old School Meet! Wyoming/Colorado guys and gals! Sept. 23rd, 2006
Ummm my Bronco was very reliable but I sold it so no more Ford....
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First pics from WCSS8
Uh oh.... the black RX sickness is going around... What happened Rob?
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speedo cable Q.
2wd and 4wd should be the same, however, auto to manual will NOT be even close.
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Newbee Scoobie Questions
Welcome my friend! I have some relatives that live out there in Yosemite also but have yet to make it out there to see them and their new houses. Anyways, there is an article in the USRM about codes, how to check them and what codes mean what. I think this should help you http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Hope that helps you out. For your application, since its a Loyale and probably SPFI, it'll be down close to the bottom under '88 and newer SPFI.
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Who's done the rear ebrake conversion?
wow, thats some pretty lookin rust you got there:grin: Anyways, I know XSNRG has done a rear ebrake conversion onto one of his RXs and I *think* it was one that was still a 4-lug pattern but I cannot quite remember. Ha, I found the thread which he started... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31217&highlight=rear+ebrake
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Experts needed! 3-pin TPS retrofitted onto 4-pin TPS?
Well what I did was what Tex did on the TB. I rotated it 90 degrees so the throttle linkage was sticking straight up, used my stock throttle cable and modified it to work. For the TPS, I had to wire in my knock sensor but I used the spyder intake wiring harness and plugged it right into my body harness.
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1978 brat
yes, you can bolt a quad setup into a dual setups place. You'll need the headlight, buckets, mounting hardware for the buckets, lower front valence, and grille. Pretty easy to do but hard to find the parts to do it, like a grille, in good shape.
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1978 brat
The quad headlight setup was actually an option IIRC. They came stock with the dual headlight setup but you could get the quad setup if it was built with that option. I could be wrong though... My '78 Brat has the quad headlight setup as well. I like it more then the dual headlights
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Experts needed! 3-pin TPS retrofitted onto 4-pin TPS?
well mine seemed to work out pretty decent. I dunno about Tex but the only issue I had was the fact that my car would have a weird idle. Sometimes it would idle, sometimes it wouldn't but I think that had to do with other tuning issues.
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Old School Meet! Wyoming/Colorado guys and gals! Sept. 23rd, 2006
tow it down there with hopes and dreams?
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Old School Meet! Wyoming/Colorado guys and gals! Sept. 23rd, 2006
I'll be in something, don't know what yet. If someone wants to come up and give me a hand with my RX before I part it out, I'd probably take that. If not, maybe ride with Bill and bring my mountain bike...
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Brat Values keep on climbing $7300 :-O holy sh!#*t
Maybe I'm glad that I'm going to start restoring my '78 Brat.....
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76 DL Sedan : Nice
I know WagonsOnly picked up a '75 coupe from IdahoJack for about that and its almost mint for being all original. Nice shape but you can find better eventually down the road.
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Engine #2... done I think
I pressure washed this radiator before I installed it so it is very clean, both inside and out.
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Engine #2... done I think
So since she still runs, I decided to work on it today. Hooked up my PCV system wrong again so I had some major blowby. My narrowband was saying at 35psi, that I was running just under rich, nowhere near being lean. Put a new t-stat in it and a new radiator cap but still overheats like a mother. Ugh, this is getting to me bad, I just want to be able to get into it, start it up and drive it away, no problems....
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Converting a fwd XT6 to a 5 speed
well then you have to ask yourself, if you like replacing clutches because I can fry a stock 4wd turbo clutch with a stock 4wd turbo car pretty easily. Since the XT6 has more torque and more horses then a stock turbo EA82, you're going to be smoking clutches like crazy. If you decide to go cheap, it'll cost you more in the long run. 2wd and 4wd clutches are different sizes. I an get a pic for you of a side by side comparison of flywheels if you like. This is why I said best bet, but the ultimate decision is up to you.
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Engine #2... done I think
Thats funny, my tattoo has "Gear Head" in it. I know the feeling bud, been there a few times, just not anytime recently. When I first got into Subarus, I was dealing with gen 2s and gen 1, and no fuel injection. Now the fuel injection and timing belts, along with the stuff to go with it, is a little different. I feel pretty ood about myself that I was able to get it this far. Now lets see if I can get it road worthy enough to drive everyday!
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Mobil1 and oil leaks
Think a little harder. There IS a specialty tool that is used by some mechanics since the flywheel will spin no matter what. Yes, you can use a high impact gun but what about torquing them back down? I use a Craftsman Torx driver through a hole on the flywheel and have it rest on a side of the bellhousing. I've done it like that for awhile and I'm a mechanic.
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Converting a fwd XT6 to a 5 speed
best bet would be to get a XT6 clutch setup, and a lightened EA82 turbo 4wd flywheel, have the step machined right for the XT6 clutch setup and be done with it. The tranny should be fine. Kingbobdole has done this swap into his FWD XT6. Pretty spunky little car if you ask me!
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88 gl10 t wagon
Ok, first off, is the tranny a 3 speed or a 4 speed automatic? The 3 speed autos have major problems and if you say its slipping in and out of gears, tranny is probably on its way out. 5 speed swap is the way to go. If you can find a tranny from a turbo'd car, then you won't have to change the rear diff. If you end up getting a tranny from a naturally aspirated car, then yes, you'll have to change the rear diff, and highway speeds will result in a higher RPM. I swapped my '89 RX from a 4EAT auto to a Full Time 4wd 5-speed, dual range with locking center diff. All I needed to do the swap was: tranny driveshaft instrument cluster tranny crossmember shift linkage clutch cable pedal cluster center console (for cosmetic reasons) wiring for the diff lock speedometer cable (different from auto to manual) clutch setup and flywheel It was pretty simple for me but its a lot easier with two people (I did it by myself). Now, after you do that, keep it stock and you should have a bit more power to the wheels. If you do end up wanting to build it a bit, you better choose two of the three fast cheap reliable I have roughly $7500 into my junkyard RX and I still am having problems with it. I've already blown one engine and I think I'm pushing my second engine in the same direction but not too sure yet.
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Performance suspension
might as well do a 5-lug swap since the market for suspension on the EA82s is none. Here's a link to the USRM about the conversion... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400 If you do a 5-lug conversion, it opens you to a lot of brake upgrades, suspension upgrades for the front, larger swaybars, rim selections, and tons more.
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Driveshaft removal and tranny fluid question
ummm a bit. best thing to do is get a pop can, cut the bottom off of it, bend it to fit inside the back of the tranny (best if you have a spare tranny laying around) and tape it on there after you remove the driveshaft. Or you can put a pan under it and drain it out when you pull the driveshaft.
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Engine #2... done I think
I am running a FPR Rob and I had it set to 40psi. I'm going to keep with the larger injectors but return the fuel pressure to 34psi or so. I'm going to hook up the passenger side valvecover to the PCV valve, the driver side will have a little filter on it, if that setup works. I'm also going to replace my plugs with some new ones I have and we'll see how it goes from there. You're right Phil, gotta stick with the basics before I go all out, just tried to get ahead of myself I guess....
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Engine #2... done I think
well she still runs but I think my problem is fouled plugs, due to oil. I believe the oil is getting pulled through, past the rings because my fuel pressure may be too high for me only running 7psi of boost. Currently, I'm running 40psi of fuel and larger injectors. I need some help since this is mainly the first EA82 I've ever worked on, modified, and tuned. I'm used to carbs, gen 1's and the sort. So, if any of the Denver guys wanna coem up and help, give me a shout, most of you have my cell number. I don't want to give up entirely but its getting so frusterating to the point that I do.
