Caboobaroo

I got the plans made for the custom tubular control arms for an EA82, and also ordered some of the stuff I'll need to make them. Some tubular steel, heim joints and some bent Legacy control arms = custom, adjustable way rad control arms. Hopefully I get a set done before WCSS so I can show them off on the XT6:banana: I also have the list of materials that I need to get the body back up to show quality and a list of parts that I'm slowly ordering to get it into a nonleaking, runnable condition:rolleyes:

Yeah I looked into that after I posted and was shocked to see my computer was right for the 60k timing belts....:-\ Now, this doesn't mean that people should go over the mileage interval. I just had a customer in that snapped the timing belt in his Hyundai because he was 25k overdue for the belt to be done. $5,000 for an engine vs. $650 for a timing belt.

Its common to have these engines run low oil pressure at idle after warmup. Try a thicker oil if you live in a hot place. You might even get away with running some Delo 15W40 if you live down south.

You would probably want to repin the ECU harness from the EJ22 to an EJ22T and get the extra wiring for the boost solenoids, then put the turbo stuff on it and call it a day.... Or something like that. I know the wiring isn't too terrible to make it into a turbo harness.

You still have 35k left on them. Subaru recommends replacing the belts at 105k miles on all of their engines that use belts.

ok so I'll chime in here. XT6, XT GL, and GL-10 calipers all bolt up the same. Doesn't matter if its a backing plate from any of those cars, the calipers bolt up the same. I have seen pads being slightly different which resulted in using the old brackets with new calipers and pads but since you're getting loaded calipers, no need to worry. Just unbolt the old and bolt up the new!

I have a ton of happy customers and here's what they have to say! Now I no longer work for Firestone so don't get confused!

Ok so I tried replying to this a couple times but I was running into a computer error... So that diff will bolt in but not totally. The driveline mates up to two of four bolts so the other two will have to be drilled. I have a 3.9 VLSD in my RX with the EA82 driveline.

Yup the current owner bought it from Tex and lives down that way.

Thanks Rob! Just let me know when you want to make your way up here. I have a huge following over on NASIOC with roughly 2000 members cars. I've had people drive as far south as Portland and as far north as British Columbia. Heck I have customers that have moved down to Oregon and still come see me for alignments! I'm also going to post up some comments from people who's cars I've aligned to show the satisfaction of my customers and to show the quality of my work. I'm not happy until my customers are happy!

Well I don't have any ideas as they've already been mentioned (CTS, IAC, TPS) but when I get home, I'll see about digging out my '87 FSM and see if I can come up with anything. Might be a good idea to go to the junkyard and snatch up another ECU just for s&g's though....

Hell everyone! Russ with Clark's Wheel Alignment here posting up my first vendor thread with great deals to USMB members. With summer right around the corner, most of you are getting your projects back on the road after a long hibernation during the winter time. Some of you probably did some suspension work and now need to have the vehicle checked out for the wheel alignment. I specialize in Subarus and am the most recommended alignment specialist on NASIOC in the North West Impreza Club chapter. However, Imprezas and Legacys aren't the only Subarus that I align. I also align Brats, GLs, RXs, and XT(6)s. Just finished a 5-lug conversion but don't know what to do for an alignment? I currently have a custom alignment strictly for 5-lug converted vehicles to get the most out of your swap. Four wheel alignments start at $69.95 + tax! Do you need tires mounted and balanced before or after the alignment? I can do that as well (up to 18" wheels). For $18 per wheel including balancing, thats a steal compared to my local competitors! Still not satisfied? Every board member that comes in for an alignment will get an automatic 10% off alignments and tire work! Call me today (or shoot me a PM) for questions or to schedule an alignment! Clark's Wheel Alignment 12232 NE 116th St Kirkland, WA 98034 (425)821-8304

Shawn, find me a new hydraulic tensioner for my '89 XT6....

Showoff:lol:

Replace the whole caliper. You'll have less headaches and possible issues then trying to fix it. Make sure you flush the brake system out too so there's all new fluid in there.

If there's a loud knocking then the engine might be done. I could verify your issues if you'd like. I'm in Kirkland. Also, whats funny about AWD Auto is that one of the service writers is a great friend of mine and also my roomate LOL...

I've done a fair share or rear suspension swapouts on the EA82s and if you have the kind of rot issues in the subframe, the mounting points in the body are either going to pull out when you try and unbolt everything, or sheer a bolt off, leaving you between a rock and a hard place. If you're not using air tools, my advice would be to let her go to Subaru heaven

The amount you might want to mvoe it or even get it back to stock after lifting it, isn't going to be enough to Dremel out. You'll have to Dremel about an inch or so in order to get it to where the camber won't eat tires.

I think with the bulkiness of the factory stuff, they won't fit into an EA81 as the strut tower is a hair too small. You can always modify the towers to make them bigger to fit the stock EJ stuff in there. The only reason why coilovers fit is because of how thin they are in comparison to the factory EJ struts. I'm wanting to modify the strut towers on my RX so I can sit the car a little lower in the front.

Its fixable but would take a lot of time and effort. If I were to fix it, I'd find another body or even find a body in the yard somewhere around there and cut out the pieces to splice into that body. But its an '81 GL with an EA81 and d/r 4-speed from the looks of it. Either that or someone swapped the cluster:rolleyes: It has an 80's steering wheel on it too.

Sure can! Just shoot me a PM when you're ready to get it done.

Its not only the positive camber in the front that can eat tires. These cars also run a lot of negative toe as well which isn't good for handling, just to help prevent the wear of tires. Now if you run a positive camber with zero toe, then yes, you'll get outside edgewear. Are you in North Bend, WA? I work over in Kirkland at Clark's Wheel Alignment and guess what I specialize in....

Only one way to know. Start calling around to machine shops and tell them what you're tryin to accomplish. Only the shops can give you a yes or no answer and also let you know if there's going to be some sort of liability.

DON'T PART IT OUT!!! If that truely has the black and red interior, its also known (well what I've heard it refered to as) the pimp interior because only '85 GL-10s got such a thing but it was an option. I've seen a few N/A GL-10s especially '85s. Maybe I can talk to my girlfriend and maybe get this from you....

The wheel in the pic appears to be an EA82 wagon wheel. Make sure you get EA82 wagon wheels for the EA82 car as the EA81s don't clear the calipers properly. AFAIK, Jackman wheels were only offered during the gen 1 stage 2 run in the late 70's. A Jackman wheel has flat spokes, no curves whatsoever.