Zefy

keeping it to yourself though eh?:-p

i would just go and buy a set of gaskets for both parts. then you have templates for both and you'll have the gaskets already on hand when you're ready to install!

my guess is he just left the injectors in it. also doing an spfi swap would be rediculous on an ej22. spfi is pretty much just as hard to do as ej22 wiring. you might aswell save yourself the trouble and just run the ej22 stuff. nice work on the carb setup! this would be really awesome in small boat applications too. looking forward to seeing this at wcss.

haha. the first pic looks like it says 150/sex. what did you have to do for these again?:-p those are pretty sweet. I've always liked the superlite look.

lets see it... how was the wiring and the FBW?

yup... RX trans is what i'm using...

ok let me clarify... 1990 legacy. the ratio is wrong for my car and it is LSDless. i pretty much just want to put the RX diff into the legacy. (don't worry about the ratios matching the trans. the trans is 3.7) so all i have to do is pop the axles out, remove the stubs from the axles, then pop the diff in and slide the legacy axles over the RX stubs? that sounds way to easy...

i'm looking to get my legacy rear suspension to run with the 3.7 LSD diff from an 87 RX to work with the axles on the legacy... the legacy has innies for the stub axles while the RX has outies. what are my options here? my thoughts are: -swap the guts from the 3.7 to the legacy housing and maintain the innies but change the diff ratio and make it LSD -swap my outies for some innies on my RX diff??:-\ (on paper it sounds good) -swap the inner cups on the axles to use outies? i know of the LSD swap into matching diffs from old gen cars however i can't seem to find reference for newer diffs with the different stub designs.

ej suspension is far superior than the xt6... however, if i were to do it without doing TONS of fabbing, i would probably opt for getting koni yellow inserts and ground control coilover kit. very tunable with this setup and relatively cheap. assuming the inserts fit in your old strut bodies, there will be no need to modify your knuckles with this setup.

once again... 04 will be easiest as far as usdm sti's. 05-07 use fly by wire throttle and have larger bolt pattern and such making it slightly different then all the rest.. 04 is ideal for what you're planning... go onto nasioc... TONS of imprezas getting sti swaps on there...

there are dozens of aftermarket braces for the imprezas... have a look at them for the design... early impreza is all bolt on... my friend took a 93 FWD auto impreza and put full ver.4 engine, trans, diff with the rest of the drivetrain being 02 wrx... i would try and find 04 or older sti for your swap.

back from the dead... i still want one!:-p you still want to try and make some or no? if not, anybody is willing to let me i would like to make a mold and produce these using fiberglass... cheaper but not nearly as cool as CF.

to swap to vented discs from what i understand you have to swap the control arms and knuckles aswell... its not a simple caliper and brake swap.. ea82 does not work... something to do with the tie rod ear on the hub.... if you have it then try it out anyways... it cant hurt...

nice to see my write up being used! from what i hear the front vented discs of an ea81 (not your vortex) will work on the brat IF you make your own stabalizer bars or grind off your old ones and re-use yours. this swap requires everything from the control arms to the struts. i have seen somebody swap an ea82 booster and master cylinder into the gen1 but he did it for clearance reasons, not added brake feel. i believe the stock one will suit you fine... for the rear swaybar, i'm not sure how doable this is. the rear suspension design is like no other subaru that came with swaybars. best bet would be to find an ea81 or ea82 and see how it fits. i personally have never tried this. likewise, the front swaybar design is quite odd. i thought of adding bolt on bracing to the swaybar near the back where it mounts to the transmission. my thought was if you add a mild small rod running parallel with the back of the swaybar then bolt it around the two arms coming forward then it could add some regidity. to thick however and it's likely to bend or snap. this idea i called the 'swaybar stiffy'... there are tons of little bits you can do to make the car handle a little better and it's pretty fun to just go at it trying a bunch of different ideas.

i have a clutch kit and flywheel in storage right now if you're interested... i put about 10k miles on it before the engine popped and now with the swap i am no longer using it... if you're interested i'm sure we could work something out... i bought the clutch kit for something like 200 and the flywheel machining cost 50. i believe the kit is sachs.

does anybody have any pictures of the rear disc brake swap goes onto the gen1? i already did the 4 lug rear disc swap but from what i saw with the xt6 stuff is you have to swap the trailing arms aswell which are not the same.. also with doing this swap i don't think i'll be able to fit big enough tires for my application... a solution needs to be found! mine is quite complicated and annoying however if it works it'll be kickin... if i can just swap some xt6 stuff on it would save me time and money however i would need smaller tires... anybody have a solution for this that i may have not thought of?

no the stock RS hood does not bolt onto a legacy. however. there are fiberglass repro hoods and bumpers floating around... hard to find and expencive... if you want an impreza then get an impreza... if you're swapping it anyways, might aswell get a 93 impreza or something...

i'm not going to post anything about the rear suspension until it is complete... don't want to give people false hope! so to fit the fronts i got in touch with crossbread performance and got a set of their front control arms... i then had to move the stabalizer bar from the gen1 control arm onto the new one. something like such: then i installed them. you will also need lengthen the tie rods... haven't put to much thought into this... solutions are to sleave the old ones to make them longer or use newer gen longer tie rods... drill the strut top or get these wacky adaptor kits from crossbread performance and use your stock strut top... i opted for going with pillowball top mounts so using the stock mounting points won't work... strengthen the strut tower and drill new holes to suit the 2.5rs strut. which is the next problem... 2.5rs struts (or springs rather) are to wide to fit in the tiny towers... coilover type springs solves this problem... there are cheap ways to fix this (ground control style coilovers) and there is expencive coilovers. i opted for full rally grade hotbits coilovers... (using these coilovers is backfiring on me right now but hopefully i'll find a solution...) then you need to get shortened axles (different inner cups depending on the transmission being used) which i got from rguyver on the board here... stock 2.5rs axle compared to my custom super duper axle...

front hubs are from a 2.5RS.. i wanted the larger brakes...

getting JDM parts is easy and fairly cheap compared to the USDM counterparts due to their age. older sti's = cheaper than new ones... find a local tuner shop and find out where they get their JDM imports from. there are typically parts distributers specifically for JDM parts. which one is in your area? i have no idea... phone around a bit. i have about half a dozen places to get JDM parts fairly local to me. these places won't just deal in subies though. honda, toyota, nissan parts are in high demand pretty much everywhere so there pretty much HAS to be one local to you... i've seen complete ver.1 sti WITH registrations and street legal titles go for 5k-6k canadian. every place has different import laws though. ver4-5 complete drivetrains go for 7k-8k.

very very true... the old trailing arm design suspesion does not place any lateral/shear forces on the strut mounts where on the newer suspension it does... however, with proper bracing i think it should hold up just fine... assuming he's as good a fabber as he says he is then i'm sure he could come up with something... i had a look at the buggy project you did and it looks quite good and i think you could probably make something strong enough to suit... however building an slow moving off-roader and a 300hp speed machine are two very different things... this is also the reason i posted: most (or all if i'm not mistaken) do not use a lateral link suspension system. this system is from a 300Z... these struts would take no more force than a standard ea82 suspension... however determining a mounting setup for this would a be a pain... this is just an example, but i think it is important to look at as it is a system designed and proven to take more than 300hp, where as xt6 and R160's were not...

i think a better solution to the rear suspension problems is to completely swap the rear suspension... i'm assuming you're getting a complete parts car correct? i would not attempt this swap without it as there are many parts missing from a front clip or pre-parted out car. i would also look into nissan rear suspension from such cars are 280Z, 300Z, 350Z, skylines, sylvias, etc etc... they all share the same diffs with subaru except they have the pretty R200 with is the next step up from the R180. and since you're using 05 sti parts the bolt pattern is the same as the nissan 5 lug... for a swap like this i believe that sticking with all subaru would be limiting yourself to easier/ better options. i would also look into getting a version 6 or older JDM sti for swapping. they still have DCCD and all that fun stuff but they are 2 liter motors still dishing out the 300hp. the transmission are 5speed instead of 6, but they are pretty much the same dimensions as a standard suby transmission. ver7 is when they got the 6 speed and made the transmission huge... adding the 6 speed also adds about 100lbs to the car if i remeber correctly... ver7 also has a cool turbo setup and a non-FBW throttle so it'll be easier to work out the wiring... wiring becomes much easier on the JDM sti's with OBD1...

haha i was looking at this same setup on nasioc a little while back... cheap for what you're getting! however i lack a turbo...

i think gen 1's did have the option of a/c... mine has a little toggle on it... that says a/c... and a switch spot for it... i've seen a factory set up on renaissanceman's brat...

my brat never had one... just the electic fan... i would dump it and add another electric one if overheating becomes an issue...