Zefy

thanks for the wiring help! that makes sence now... my tentative date to have it running is mid february for iceX. this date, like all the others, will probably not be accomplished. the key components that i need to complete it are very close to being mine. then i just need to suck it up and work in the cold... however if it isn't ready for wcss10 then somebody kick me...:-p

that writeup is good thanks! the main difference between that and my old gen1 is the regulators on those alternators are internal. mine is external and so there are a lot wires on this beast... they changed this with the introduction of the ea81. however i believe i've semi sorted the problem out. thanks!

i have seen good results with rattle cans and TONS of wet sanding. this is a cheap way to go however you're probably looking into putting 2 solid days worth of man hours to complete it. i would recommend saving up and waiting until you can afford to get a decent paint job that will last... otherwise, just keep spraybombing it and hope people don't stand to close when they look at it...:-p

oh and while i have everybody looking, what are these two wires for!?! one is white w/ green the other is green w/e white...?

it took a little bit of playing but i actually got it to work with the way it is in the pic. if this doesn't work out i'll bring it to a rad shop to get worked on... thanks for reviving my thread folks!:cool:

get in touch with eurodrive clutches... they custom build them to your specs including disc material, step, and pressure... i got my custom clutch from them without a core for under 300 to my door. depending on what you want the price will be different...

i had wagon wheels (unknown type, just not the gen 1 jackman ones) and the inside lip of the wheel was rubbing on the arm... it was actually just the weight rubbing on it so i removed the weight and replaced it with the sticky ones... clearance is super minimal on these cars... as a matter of fact, the whole rear suspension sucks on them...

i would just go to a tire shop and buy some spacers... they are pretty cheap and it sounds like you could get away with using a 1-2mm spacer. however i dunno if they make them to fit our cars...:-\ they are universal however the suby pattern is just so different. i run some on my civic because i have the same issue with the tires rubbing...

there is no point in going with bigger injectors as it will just pump more gas into the engine which is rather pointless... the ecu should compensate for the bigger injectors, but what's the point? unless you putting in more boost then you don't need more fuel... when you get more air = get more fuel...

sweet... i really like the book sitting beside the disasembled motor that reads "what's wrong with my car?":-p

judging from the pic of the 4x100 setup above it sure does look like the bolts that are used to bolt the hub to the disc are the same... what if you used a stud similar to an exhaust stud then put a lock nut in the recess in the hub. then all you would have the extra bit of stud sticking out which would become the wheel studs... follow me? i think somebody else touched on this before...?

can't do this to an ej motor anyways as the water pump runs off the timing belt... i guess i'll just have to wait and see what happens... i also just realized that this motor had a block heater on it but i think i lost the cable for it. will have a look for it tonight and see what happens!

those ones on his car are better (in my opinion) to the A1's. those are thule 430 tower which are a custom install. they are seriously kick rump roast and can be removed from the roof in about 30 seconds flat... even better then the 430's is the yakima control towers with landing pads. comes in something called a landing pad which is a small mounting base that is bolted through the roof (looks clean, won't leak) then the control tower clips onto it. very clean install and the roofrack is removeable except the landing pad bases. second option is the track which i believe comes on some loyale wagons. control towers use special track bases and slide into the track... easily adjustable, holds oodles of weight, looks slick as hell. i work for a company called rackattack and we sell these all the time and do in house installs. i've put these on everything from nissan micra, brand new audi's, fiberglass canopies, to limos and motorhomes. if you want i can post up some pics of the setup so you can have a better feel for it.

i checked to see if the freeze plugs popped or not, but i can't seem to find them, or where they would be on this motor... where are they located?

ej22 from my brat swap unfortunatly was filled with water when i was testing the motor and unfortunatly it is now below freezing. this is the first i have thought about it! checked and the rad is pretty frozen solid aswell as the hoses... anybody think i wrecked the motor??? obviously i can't really start it up until it warms up which it should in a few days. i didn't see any visible leaks or anything but i won't really know until it warms up. anti-freeze will be going in SOON!!! i'm just worried i cracked the motor or something after all the hard work i put into it with the rebuild...

the only subarus with 5x114.3 is the 05+ sti's, svx's and the tribeca... 5x100 is deffinatly the way to go... i might be interested in these depending on a few factors i have yet to work out... we'll see!

go for the weber anyways... it can be made to look stock if you cut the stock aircan and adapt it to the car... they typically run nicer then the old hitachi and get better economy IF they are tuned right. you could pass smog with a weber... and if it REALLY doesn't work for smog. then swap it back to the stock carb when you go in for smog...

canadian dealerships don't know anything about subies before 1990... it's pretty lame... but give us your VIN # and somebody here can probably figure out the year and all that good stuff... what is wrong with it? posting a few pictures would be a big help in identifying it.

i've seen 15" oem suby wheels on a 2.5i. fit fine.

that car is pretty much the same height as a forester... and as far as i know, the forester shafts are the same as the imp shafts... do you see foresters flying through halfshafts?

there is suby jim in maple ridge who will have some but i'm not sure if he hucked his truck load of engines yet... if you still haven't gotten any then i can give him a shout for you... if not, there is a company on vancouver island called salt air recylcing... google it or something... they are a subaru specific wrecker and are awesome to work with... they will greyhound them to you... last thing i got from them they gave to me for free... i just had to pay the collect on the shipping...

you mean like this??? with stafman quick release hub??? i should warn you that the deep dish wheel you got is gonna sit really close to you... mine is close and it's a flush mounted wheel...(quick release adds an inch) here is how i did it... you make your own hub! get any sparco compliant hub... take the 'hub' part off of it... its 4 bolts. all you need is the raised part that the wheel directly bolts onto... second. take off old steering wheel. cut the spokes off and grind the steering wheel centre down until its a fairly flat surface. drill new holes for the sparco hub to bolt to. make sure you line this up correctly as your blinkers won't function properly without this being correctly aligned... bolt hub to the centre of the steering wheel centre, then bolt on the sparco wheel. warning, you can't use the stock horn button as disasembling the wheel requires removing the clock bit of it... good luck, and if you really need it, i can take some pics...

hack off the tip, weld it on... there... sti exhaust...:-p the tip is the cool part anyways... then sell the stock dp and everything on nasioc for oodles of money...

here is how to fix that sloppy shifter linkage... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49954 i would highly recommend staying away from the autos for these cars... you can't run a newer auto trans on these motors because they have a different bell housing... they are slow and unhappy...

i know it's kinda backwards... everybody else went from 4 lug to 5 lug... (ford, citroën, ect) from what i've been told it's due to weight reduction and less rotational mass. keeping in mind that there were many more changes than the obvious removal of 1 lug... that was the main reason i believe...