Zefy

sure is close... that's why i got in contact with them in the first place...

i had a chat with a bbs rep and got the nitty gritty about them... they are 4x136 with a 98mm centrebore... (pretty sure it's 98) they are only made for WRC cars and not at all available to consumers...

for the rollbar i would go to a 4x4 shop and get one made... that'd probably be the easiest since most of the original rollbars are pretty beat up. good luck finding those BBS's...:-p there are a couple of wheels that'll fit your car and pretty much all of them are subaru wheels... besides that, look for peugeot wheels... (like the 505 and stuff...) they have the same bolt pattern but you need the funky lugs that they use... go hunt the junkyards for these wheels... if all else fails you can do the 6 lug swap... fully detailed in the USRM. the suby wheels are 4x140 while nissan, isuzu, toyota, chevy, ect ect used 6x140. so that opens up a whole bunch of wheel options if you're willing to either drill the wheels to 4 bolt or remove 2 studs and add 4 other ones to your hubs... sweet ride and good luck finding all the stuff!

if they are an all metal housing you can cram up to 100W/140W hella bulbs in there... but you'll have to upgrade all your wiring and run new relays and stuff to deal with the added power... it's pretty easy to do... if you just plug in a higher wattage bulb into the plug and flick it on it will melt the wiring and blow the fuse...

same thing as the legacy or any other newer trans work with any ea82+ motor... i highly recommend you use the search button instead of asking every single little question... all of this stuff has been covered before in great detail... you just gotta dig a little for it...

yes gen1 legacys have 4.11 gears... if you want to go a little bit further, the forester (some) have 4.44 gears... there are a bevy of suby transmissions all with different quirks and giggles... and if you want those transmissions in your xt6 then you run into the same problem trying to run a ej engine with an ea gearbox... you'll need an adaptor plate and all that jazz...

no... wiring is very different... and 4.11 ratio trans can be had from a legacy...

something of note about the headlights that not many people seem to understand... if they look like they're the right size housing, they probably are... pretty much all older BMW's that had round headlights mount in the exact same way as our old gen1's... and there are TONS of lighting options for bmws... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html all the 5.75" ones fit... i have the cibie H1/H4 headlamps and the H1 highbeam lamp in my brat... put 100/140W H4 bulbs (with upgraded wiring!!!!) and 130W in the highbeams and you're gonna be rockin' some VERY good lights... mine (US model) has adjustable front struts aswell... it took me 3 tries before i got rid of the clunk... (3 sets of wheel barings, 1 knuckle, 2 axles, 1 set of brakes) horrible horrible stuff...

if you're going through all the trouble of swapping in a manual trans you might aswell swap in an EJ trans aswell... you'll be able to get better gear ratios and you won't need the adaptor plate... and you'll also get way more clutch options with the ej trans...

i ended up taking a hammer to it the heater box and A/C...:-p they don't like to move...

update on this at all??

awesome!!! you gotta come help me out with my brat. 350Z comes with hydrolic handbrake... so it is legal... you just gotta do it right... to make it legal you have to have a completely seperate hydrolic system.

it's not super hard to do but you need a lot of odds and ends... there should be a write up on how to do it in the USRM...

new question... i got 99% of my duckies in a row... wiring almost for a test start... i got these 2 wires coming off the engine harness that i'm at a loss to do with... i think they are water temp or something... one is a green with white stripe, other is a white with green stripe... the two pulled off to the right... what are they for??? another thing i'm wondering about... i haven't fabbed up my exhaust yet but i really wanna start it up... not having the o2 hooked up... will this make it not start or will it just run like poop? i will connect it, but obviously it's gonna be reading kinda lean...:-p

if it has 25 splines then ya use the legacy 2wd trans. however if it is 23 spline (i don't think turbos ever had 23 spline but then again i didn't think they made 2wd turbo cars either...) then get a trans out of a 2wd ej18 impreza... 1993 round about. these had ej series axles but they were 23 spline...

kickin'... the read mode connectors are those green (or blue?) single plug connector that is right by the ecu right?

just patching up the rest of the harness to go into the brat and after looking at the kennedy engineering booklet (which they said they shouldn't sell me because it'd be useless for non VW's:-\) i discovered that i've cut some wires i shouldn't have. going from the ECU there are 2 wires that branch off into oblivion and it seems i chopped em all out. the booklet calls them 'monitor wires'. dunno what those are...

haha nice pic. i like it! and ya it's the same brat. well... pretty much none of it is the same. but in theory it's the same brat.:-p

just for the record. all you people saying you can get ej22's for dirt cheap. true... i got mine for free. however! turbo ej22's are a whole different animal. the only thing similar between the turbo and non-turbo motors is the displacement. it is probably not cost effective to 'make it work'. however, if you pass it up and for some reason come by my way gimmy a shout!!! and um... i see lots of them on the road to!:-p crazyD. don't bother with the DOHC ej25's... get the SOHC. phase 2 ftw!

just for the record. all you people saying you can get ej22's for dirt cheap. true... i got mine for free. however! turbo ej22's are a whole different animal. the only thing similar between the turbo and non-turbo motors is the displacement. it is probably not cost effective to 'make it work'. however, if you pass it up and for some reason come by my way gimmy a shout!!! and um... i see lots of them on the road to!:-p

haha you're gonna laugh at me. my swap is kinda ghetto... engine looks like ************, but assuming i rebuilt it right, it should run like a champ! i could write a novel about all the different stuff going into this brat but i'm far to lazy to type it all out. things of note: 5 lug 2 pot 2.5RS brakes with hotbits rally coilovers CAMBER!!! ENGINE!!! rad clearance issue i've been complaining about... think it'll work like this? engine and trans together via mudrat adaptor plate whole build here: http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o95/Zefy_88/brat/ i will be making a full build up thread once i'm done... trying to kinda keep this on the down low.:-p

since nobody is jumping in on this i thought i'd tell you how i solved it incase anybody else runs into this problem... not sure if it's completely solved yet, but i ended up moving the two mounting pegs 2 inches to the driverside and about 1/2-3/4" towards the grill. this gave me an ok amount of clearance. i think with the right pipe it will fit fine. with that problem solved i had to move the top mounting bolts. my fan no longer fit quite like it did when i first bought it. i had to move bend the centre rad support slightly for it to clear and also take a chunk out of my headlight housing. now it seems to all fit!

i want one. this would go awesome with the brat.

i have one sitting but it's not in the best of shape. i popped a valve seat and it made a big heap of trouble. needless to say, there is a slight notch in one of the pistons. however i have a replacement for the bunged up head. all it needs is a headgasket job which i can get the gasket kit for. costs about 130-140CND. you can probably get it cheaper in the states though. even when it did run, it wasn't all that good of a motor... (nearly indestructable, even with the broken head it still ran fine... just not buttery fine.)

alright got a few questions for all of you. first off the rad hosing. now i know the standard is to use some sort of adaptor to get your hose from 1-1/8 to 1-1/4. i got that covered. the issue is the bottom port on the rad sits a whopping 1/2-3/4" from the timing belt cover... i alread got a couple of ideas to fix this. key being cheap. but not so cheap it doesn't work... wanted some opinions. second. wiring the alt. i'm going from a external reg alt to an internal reg one. i got the connector going off the alt plus the big power lead. big one goes to bat obviously. what about the connector though? thanks for the help! Greg,