Zefy

read the wiki link up above and make sure you understand what is going on when you double clutch. double clutching upshifts is rather redundant and useless. it is really only applicable while downshifting. rev matching and double clutching are two very different things.

never heard of Ti bolts for subies however there are ARP head stud kits available for the motors. not particularly cheap though. they are torque to yield bolts so they stretch after they are tightened up. The reason for all the weird tightening scheme is to stretch them slowly and safely. It is a very good call to follow the standard procedure and really, for the amount time you spend torquing a the bolts properly will save you from doing it again in the near future.

double clutching doesn't really hurt any engine components except due to the extra revs. it can waste a bit more gas to. it is really good for the syncros in the trans though (if done correctly) as it will cause no wear on them because you are doing the job of the syncro by double clutching. I do it on my impreza as more of a habit. The old brat had worn out syncros so i had to double clutch to downshift. learning how to do it, then getting good at it can take some time. It was a really steep learning curve for me as it would grind if i got it wrong. doing it for first gear on the newer cars makes it nice and smooth to enter the gear. i heel-toe and double clutch. it's really fun once you get the hang of it. Old people love it to! it throws them into a 'back in my day' speach.

lol maybe that's why cars in australia always seem so much more hardcore. their dyno plots are totally buggered with... seriously though. My local tuner shop (rocketrally) uses a dynodynamics which is known for reading 'correctly' (low). Big heated debates about it but he makes it a rule to not scale his graphs... makes a lot of people who spend piles of money cry...

what did you do differently between the two runs? more boost? tune? also it says it's uncorrected but the plots are not crossing at the correct spot. What's going on there? sorry i'm such a buzz kill! what are you running for mods?

sweet! Got a dyno plot you can post? Vid is kinda hard to read. what kind of dyno was used?

somebody sent me a PM a while back asking pretty much the same stuff. Things i would like to note, it's still not done yet. a portion of the problems mentioned are still there along with totally new ones. Here is my deal, i REALLY enjoy starting new projects and don't end up finishing the old ones and I just keep tacking on new an interesting things that i would like to do with the brat. to get it moving and such i need to: -make a trans mount and mount the shifter linkages. -finish rear suspension retrofit. (more on this when it works!) -put in dash and button up wiring and redo all the lights n such. Also having the EMS fully functioning with the wideband AFR would be slick. -botch together an exhaust. (have one that works however i decided to become a header guru and took out a bunch of books to not only design and build my own header but actually understand where the length measurements are coming from.) -mount coilover reservoirs in a safe place. -button up odds and ends. but i digress. big list, no time! this is the pm i sent back to the person who was in your exact position. just glancing over this i've changed a few things including the fuel system. it is now running a racing style fuel cell so no surge tank and no stock tank. i am using the oem fuel line as my return line and a SS braided line as my high pressure line. my full build can be found here. MOST of the stuff i've done is on there. http://www.carfreeks.net/showthread.php?t=2686 hope that helps.

mine has been put on hold once again due to insane amount of snow... my car tent collapsed on my brat... That thing has lasted 3 years and with me cleaning it off twice a day it still fell. There was so much snow that after i brushed it off the snow level was at the height of the tent so when it snowed again there was no place to brush it to!!! either way, i wanna jump back into it after the snow melts (buried under more snow and multiple tarps...)

i could probably go for a set of door weather strips for the 79 brat. i'm also still interested in the damn kamei front lip!!!! SOMEBODY MAKE THEM! (or let me make them!!!! sell me one!!!!!) seriously... most of the replies i've got about them have been 'neener neener neener! i have one and you don't!)

79 brat ej22 RX 5sp FT4WD dual range 170k miles ish... maybe...? $900. before all the BS

look around on ebay and other such places for JDM gauge cluster... they look a little better. pricey though.

cool. i am currently running these: and pretty bright. (especially with 120W bulbs) they are the same ones my uncle has on his bmw. direct fit, no modding.

which headlights do you have/referring to?

got any pics of this car cover dealy? caboobaroo is not the only one with gen2 control arms in his gen 1... mine have 2.5rs brakes on them to boot!

rally finland is in august... no snow to be seen.:-\ you're thinking of the sweden or norway. something like this...

i would have to finish the project before i could use it... it is a pretty tight fit but with a little finagling you shouldn't have to chop stuff up. the starter sits REALLY close to the brake lines coming off the booster and you need a different clutch cable to make it work. oh and it also uses turbo axles so you need to either get different axles with matching hubs, custom axles, different stubs in the trans, there are lots of ways to solve this problem.

i am running the same transmission in my gen1. should be neat! you do need the vacuum actuator and solenoids for a C-Diff lock. don't forget those! (or you can just use a little lever for it... i might end up doing this however the throw on it is extremely small)

from what i have researched there is no actual data backing up the DOHC won't fit story. I actually came across some interesting info that might lead me to believe that the DOHC is actually narrower than the SOHC. if ANYBODY has data to prove me otherwise then please speak up. i don't have access on a regular basis to a dohc motor that i can tinker with and everytime i ask nobody is willing to go check... the theory goes like this. on a SOHC motor the valves are at 60 degrees to each other, but on a DOHC motor the valves are at 90 degrees to each other so in theory, the dohc engines should be narrower at the back of the engine (where it hits the most). i heard this from a guy i never met, over the phone. so who knows!!?!??? take a measurement of your engine and report back and i will measure my ej22. put this question to rest in my mind. the 2.5RS brakes and hubs were chosen because this is the largest brake i could get under there while maintaining OEM 15" wheels for gravel tires and the like. i could spend big bucks on gravel wheels at which point i could go 4pots but that is to much money. 2.5 brakes on a car 700lbs lighter will be fine. the splines are the same on the RX trans, 2.5RS, WRX, etc. standard struts and springs don't fit into the front shock towers. you will have to get coilovers of some kind. i made a big mistake of getting coilovers with external reservoirs (and now remote) and it it's been nothing but trouble. the ONLY ej sohc turbo motor came in the old turbo legacys... exactly the same dimensions as the ej22 found common for these swaps but with a turbo on it.

good luck with your build. nice to see others getting up to the task... the gen1 is an amazingly difficult car to figure stuff out for. i'm currently working on my 79 with ej22, RX trans, 2.5RS brakes and hubs all round. (the list is substantially longer than that but you get the idea) although the parts you want to use are substantially newer the concept is very similar. not sure if you're on carfreeks.net but here is my build thread. http://www.carfreeks.net/showthread.php?t=2686 and my photobucket with most of it. http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o95/Zefy_88/brat/?start=180

are the SVX control arms longer? That stuff i really don't know. Nor am i sure that svx control arms fit into ej crossmembers. would be interesting to find out. sti control arms are longer and the spec C ones are really long. (if you can find some) the problem with doing this is your camber goes up as you push the control arm out. increasing handling along with tire wear. most people i've seen with widebody kits get different offset wheels to have them stick out more along with wider wheels and tires. (after all, that's the point of the widebody, fat tires!) with sti stuff you also get brembo brakes which a lot of people parting out cars will sell as a complete set. then all you'd need is a 6speed swap or custom axles. another issue with the svx stuff is coilovers are hard to get for them. I'm not sure about the hub situation on if they will fit or not but most people with svx's end up custom building their coilovers. would be cool to see pics of your project.

svx suspension is substantially different as well... if you want to run the bigger hubs you will need (pretty much) the entire suspension setup from an 05-07 sti. best advice to you would be to hop over to nasioc and sell your coilovers and buy some that are properly suited to your car.

the ea71 wasn't made in 87. what car is this out of? sounds like a pretty neat build. what cam you gonna run? if you're doing all this other stuff might as well get a delta regrind or something.

For your application i would recommend thule 450 towers. These would be better than the lowriders because they are rated to 165lbs vs. 100lbs on your vehicle. (this is specific to your outback, not to the towers themselves) you should be able to fit 2 bikes with a kayak on there depending on how you want to carry them. 58" bars would probably be a good call as well just so you have the extra room to play with. (also if you find they are to long, you can cut them down to length. 50" and 58" are the same price) what kind of kayak is it? ocean/lake/whitewater? plastic/fiberglass/kevlar? tandem? weight? to determine which kayak system is best for you these things are important. what kind of bikes do you have? mountain? road? full suspension? carbon fiber? weight? knowing these things will help determine what kind of bikerack is best for you. something like the raptor only works properly with a bike with a standard triangle shape frame. if you have a full suspension bike or an oddly shaped frame the raptor can have difficulties holding onto the bike. some pics of the bikes would be nice just to be certain. I am a rack 'specialist' from rackattack. hope this helps.

correct. using an ej22 block with ej18 heads will increase power because it is a larger motor. it will not be a high CR motor. it will pretty much be a stock ej22.

ej22 with ej18 heads won't bump up the compression. they are nearly identical. ej25 with ej22 heads is where you get the higher CR. with that in mind, go turbo.