Zefy

release the hillbilly inside...

good call on the coil. I'm going to get a bunch of dielectric grease and have a field day sealing this sucker up. Now that I have a real peoples job I can finally spend money on fun times. Alas, I now have very little time for fun things...:-p Let me know when your next big outing is and I'll try and get some time. Seems like every weekend now is either a autoX, rally, somebodies birthday or a mix of the three... This weekend it's autoX and a friend's birthday.

I have taken the old beast out a few times since the above 'incident' but pretty much only just for camping and random stuff... Sunday I took it out to stave lake. This is a dammed lake that consistently has a low water level making it a mud plane. Pretty well every weekend there are hundreds of trucks ripping around on it. Pretty fun. Got through some fairly hairy situations that left the full size trucks (aka, like the yukon in the picture) stuck but the wagon walked through. TWO PROBLEMS. This thing really doesn't like big mud splashing... I would get through the obstacle fine, but the car would die after and I would have to 'air it out' for 15-45 minutes before it would start again. Left me doing only shallow obstacles and going fairly slow... I'm sure somebody has come across such issues. The disty looks clean and dry and the filter is not getting wet. Spark plugs getting wet...? Backing up through the exhaust...? Second... Car has mad locks. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't... I unlock the driver's side door, get in, close it, and it won't open again for a couple hours. Passenger side seems to be more 'stuck'. This car sits for months at a time without use... Potential cause...?

broke a ball joint crawling up a creek bed. broke a ball joint and it rotated the knuckle all around breaking it off the strut, bending the steering, and pissing my brake fluid. Never fear though! I just drove it to where the tow truck would pick me up...... ~15 miles away........ That was when I got back onto the road. about 5 miles was gravel/creek bed, then the rest was a highway. I wonder what kinda ticket I would have gotten if I were pulled over...?

it will swap right in. just use your original 2.5 intake mani. I have done this swap but the other way... 03 2.5 into 99 2.2.

exactly what it says on the cluster... unless you don't have a tach cluster... But if you don't have a tach then it doesn't matter anyways... (***photo jacked...***) valve float is at around 7000rpm if i recall... don't do that though... my ea71 is wrecked now... ***EDIT: Just went and dug up a picture of my own and surprisingly it is different... Mine is from Oregon while the one above is from cali i believe. Different emissions stuff so the cluster is different...? Not sure but mine goes to 120mph vs 80mph (and it shows kph which would have been handy...) and mine has a 500rpm higher redline... weird. somebody else should elaborate...

damn very interested. I already have a set (payed WAY more than that) and would love to have spares. what are the two pieces on the right in that photo? Don't look like fenders... Guy have any flares...? Front splitters...?

actually thats not a bad idea. Taking that concept one step further, you could just cut a couple pieces of metal, say 2.5" x 1" and make a little adapter which would achieve the same thing. like so... Sorry for the crappy ms paint but I think it gets my point across...? You would need to add another bolt or something to keep the bracket from rotating around on you and obviously my picture is not lined up properly but the concept stands. You would also need to add a couple washers to take up the added gap of putting a bracket on the outside of the shifter. Or you could do an offset bend if you wanted to make it super fancy. Should be doable with a hacksaw and drill... You'll probably have to play around with this a fair bit to make it perfect but should yield similar results to what I have done.

i moved mine about an inch. but it didn't go back into a gen2/3 vehicle so you should double check how far you can move it up without the linkage hitting the shifter trim. The aftermarket shifter on my impreza is to high and it hits the trim. easy fix (bend the trim) but mildly annoying. This is a very easy experiment mod. No exact measurments. Just give it a whirl and see what happens. Pretty much impossible to screw up.

you make it sound like it is already done...? Why all the questions?

i'm pretty sure there is no short shifter available for these cars. But really, they are not hard to make. Is your goal a short shifter or a short throw shifter? Short shifters are not that great. It just makes the shifter harder to reach... A short throw shifter moves the pivot point of the linkage to reduce the distance your hand has to move but maintains the height making it easier to reach. I have done this on my swapped car. Simple project if you have a welder and a grinder. Pretty well impossible without it... this is your stock shifter. Now the goal for a short throw shifter is to move that pivot point away from the ball. So cut through the weld making sure not to destroy the rest of the shifter lever. like so... Then just weld it on. Make sure you note where the bracket actually sits and you don't put it on backwards or some stupid crap... paint and install! This reduced throw by about half I'd say compared to my wagon. Replacing the shifter bushings and the ball socket goes a long way as well. These bushings are the same as newer gen bushings for imprezas and stuff.

here I am paying for my lift like a chump... then again, I've owned it for 2 years and only taken it wheelin twice... and the first time it broke almost instantly... I should hop across the boarder and make a mess of things...

good to hear that you figured it out. We'll never know what the problem was with my wiring. I decided to fix it with a metaphorical sledge hammer... Full stand alone. Overkill? yup... My build doesn't end with a simple ej22...

hey Jeff. I'm down for a convoy. give me a call or something. If you leave at around 1-2 i would need to leave my house at around 10:30 or so.

so wait... no more 3.3? or is the ej20h for a different car? how do you plan on fitting the twin turbo in? They are really only meant to fit in RHD... The LHD driver's side puts the second turbo smack dab in the brake master cylinder, steering, and clutch. I've seen people remove one of the turbos and just use one...? GL!

kinda surprised that I'm the one posting this but I can't seem to find very much info about it. Friend told me that if i want to go wheelin in washington i need to now purchase a couple of passes. Or face up to 100 dollar ticket. Anybody heard about this? I know it's hard to get caught when you're in the middle of nowhere. (similar to going on hyrdo land here i'm assuming...?) only reference i bothered to find. http://offroadhub.com/2011/03/trails-access/blue-ribbon-coalition/washington/ discuss...?

it's probably going to chatter and shudder a bit when you're engaging and disengaging. It's an old car. I doubt anybody will notice.

that's pretty sweet. I'm not surprised it could do it, more surprised that you did do it! BTW, you were technically breaking the law. That trailer looks wider than the 360. This is a no-no. Get separate mirrors to extend the width of the car to allow you to tow that legally next time.

hmmm... I will have to check that. Probably sunday. I was under the impression it wouldn't run at all without the cam/crank sensors though.

i know a guy that kept electronic ignition but did not use the subaru components. I have no idea how he actually did it, but i think he ended up using GM coils. this was on a 72 porsche 911 with an ej251 swap with carbs. he is an engineering wizard and i'm sure he'll die with all of his secrets... but the concept stands... http://www.porubi.com/

ok so i know nobody has peaked back here since my last post in this thread. But here is the scoop... It won't really run at all now... WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH THIS THING? I'm seriously going bonkers trying to diagnose this problem. I retraced my steps and started looking at the maf wiring again. I cleaned up the wiring and got rid of the tangles for the maf. And now (not sure if was ever a real problem) the maf is receiving the correct 'pre start' voltages. However one of the tests covered in the FSM is resistance WRT the body. And these are totally bonkers. connects (on the maf) 1,2,4 should be >1Mohm while 3(ground) should be getting ~0ohms. well connecter 2 is at 2ohms... Not sure why it's grounded... 1 and 4 are only in the Kohm range... I'm debating scrapping this harness and trying again. Maybe a standalone... Possibly even a different motor. SWAP REDO! SAAAAAAVE ME... I wanna go to WCSS with my BRAT!!!

it is plug and play if you use your stock intake manifold. You can check compatibility by comparing the valve covers. They should look the same between the two engines. (flat and smooth) i have been running this swap in my 99 for over a year now. Runs fine on the stock computer however it is finicky towards mods. Cam gears (on mine at least) were the same between both engines. mine is a 99 phase 2 single port 2.2. used original wiring, intake manifold with all associated bits, maf sensor, ecu. swapped in an 04 2.5rs longblock (used all sensors from new block, only 'change' was the requirement of dual port headers) any 2.5rs engine from 00-04 should work no problem. if your car was a 98 or older this would all be a different story.

if (like me) you have parts scattered around everywhere, a perfect tool for getting those roll pins out is one of the starter bolts. the super long ones that hold the case together... they work perfectly. never had any problems and they are plenty long enough to get the pins out.

ya so i'm running these on my brat... these are the high/low beams (5.75" H4) and these are the highbeams... (5.75" H1) they are not a sealed beam so you can change the bulbs. They are most commonly found on E30 BMW's and such so you might be able to find these or something similar in the j/y. They fit right into the stock spots! They can be bought new at: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html Then you just need to update the wiring with some decent relays and beefy wiring. I actually am still using the stock brat bulb connects as they wire gauge is pretty good. Just the long run kills it... Maybe I'll try and snap some pics of the wiring setup i have... Mine is very customized though... I am also running 80W(low)/100W(hi) hella bulbs... They are SUPERB!!! If you really want to, there is 100W/120W osram bulbs available but they are about double the price... (locally my hella's are 8 bucks on a good day and the osrams are about 16+... I go through a set about every 3-4months...