Zefy

i've been working on mine for 3 years now... granted, it's not just an ej swap, and i've been a bit busy with school... now that i've graduated (i think...?), i'm hoping to get it moving again. i MAY have ruined the engine having it sit for so long. we'll see... as of right now, it's not finished... but it will be!

you can't use the stock lugs with a washer (properly at least). The lug centers the wheel with a part of the lug that is in front of the washer... it's kinda hard to explain but if you have a look at one then it's obvious. You can use toyota studs and lugs no problem. Lots of cars actually use that thread pitch for studs so there is lots of options for studs. honda, toyota, mitsubishi, etc etc all used the same thread pitch. Length and shank size is for you to determine. a parts store should have a good selection of studs to choose from. the lugs are really rather specific to that style of toyota alloy wheel. and those lugs don't come cheap (OEM ones at least... haven't seen aftermarket ones that truely work yet) so if you can try to snag the lugs with the wheels when you buy them.

i guess i should post up mine. i've had this wagon for a long time but i haven't really used it. only taken it out on the trails once (and broke it once...) then i DD'd it for a bit when the impreza was under the knife... anyways... 87 GL wagon -134k original km (84k miles) -d/r trans blah blah -lifted 2" via "one eye" lift -welded rear with a spare diff and axles -28" BFG M/T's on pug 505 turbo wheels (thanks zap!) plans -hit some stuff -fix other stuff -make a fool of myself with all my toyota buddies......... nobody wheels subies here..... and my DD is also technically lifted on forester suspension.... weeeeeee... 99 impreza TS -NEW ej253 from RS -fozzy XT suspension, wrx wagon springs in the rear -06 wrx seats -rocket rally short throw shifter -wrx rear brakes and 2.5rs fronts -5 spoke goldies with summer tires, TS 6 spokes with kumho studded, 93JDM 5 spokes with kumho r-comps, steelies with falken gravel tires and a spare set of legacy alloys for good measure... -sti trans mount -solid diff mount -80W/100W headlights with hella 500 spots... -custom yakima roof rack with thule spirit box.

those wheels require funky lug nuts. they have a flat washer on them. Unless you can find lugs that fit the subaru thread pitch (12x1.25) then you can't really use those wheels with the studs you're using. The toyota lugs use a 12x1.5 thread pitch so you can't use them on your suby studs. i have seen these wheels on a subaru. person went 6-lug... these wheels are very common and cheap so lots of spares and stuff kicking around...

if you change the bellhousing thickness that could potentially make your clutch not fit. you've probably sorted it out already... but just thought i'd comment...? I have a bell housing, flywheel, clutch, and motor mounts from a ea71. Perhaps the motor mount plates from the ea71 would solve your problem? I'm pretty sure i still have them. Free for the taking...

no it won't... the trans is a top mount starter while the RX is a side mount. you will need to swap bellhousings and all that good stuff before you can 'bolt it up'. it also doesn't fit between the frame rails... lots of notching required. it is wider than an ej series engine. while it has been done, you can get more power and reliability by going with an ej engine. also that trans is from an 85. so i don't think it is the FT4WD box. it should be fwd with part time 4hi and 4lo. it does have the 25 spline axles, close ratio, LSD rear, and 1.2:1 low range though. hope that clears some stuff up...

i would not say this is totally true. the rear being a super useless design with torsion bars but the front already has a good initial design. coilovers and maybe custom control arms/stabilizer bars will button up the front nicely. i have done a similar sort of swap for the rear. I found that the legacy stuff would be more difficult to use. You will probably notbe able to fit the gas tank in the stock spot. Beyond that, my swap is to different (i have gen 1, and used impreza rear suspension) so i can't really offer any advice beyond, it does work... you'll have to be inventive, but it's not impossible. keeping in mind, mine is STILL a work in progress. so i cannot confirm my work. but it looks neat... and its WAY wider on the gen 1... good luck!!!

now that i think about it, we're both wrong.:-p the rack, no matter what the ratio is, only has a certain amount of movement from left to right. if the tie rod has a throw of 10 inches, and the mounting arm on the knuckle is 6 inches then lets say the deflection is 25 degrees. (just making these #'s up...) if you shortened the knuckle arm to 3 inches and keep the same throw then you would be getting 50 degrees of deflection. the amount of movement capable in the rack is always the constant in this situation.

steering quickeners are used a fair amount and definitely a good option if a true quick rack is not an option. i wouldn't be to worried about the arm breaking... the work looks decent, but your reasoning behind it is a little odd. If you shorten the arms like you have, you are making your turn radius smaller. On a rally car, if you go full lock, then chances are you're probably already committed to the ditch. But for any other applications it wouldn't make sense to do this... i've been in cars with true quickracks (9:1ish ratios, vs stock ~14:1) and it is harder to turn but once you're moving there is no real difference as far as effort taken to move the wheel.

not sure why everybody is wanting 96-99 OB springs. I think it's because they are straight and not tapered...? I believe your RS is going to have tapered springs. (bottom is larger dia than the top for the rear) your gr.N top mounts should be this style. I would recommend 04-07 Forester XT springs and struts. Newer components, more readily available. check on nasioc.com. they pop up there every once and a while. i got a full set with 40k km on em for 80 bucks complete. Most seem to go for about 100-300 for the full set though. these are designed for your chassis. if that's to much lift (it really isn't extreme amounts) just run forester struts with stock RS springs or RS struts with forester springs... both will yield about the same amount. check this thread out to get ideas. this has been covered extensively. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1228188 good luck!

those guys are on crack. it won't do anything. those tires are 0.4" taller... the computer will not only work fine with the size but it also won't be able to tell that anything is different. sounds like this shop is trying to sell you new tires. Just go to a different shop. note, you didn't say if you got all 4 tires. i'm assuming you have a set (of 4) 225/60/16 tires. if you mix and match tire sizes then you will run into problems. If they are all the same tire (brand, model, size, and wear) you should have no problems. this also has nothing to do with the topic of this thread. but that's fine...

i spy twinscroll. ballin'...

so due to my impreza being broken i NEEDED to get this puppy rollin'. and i'd have to say, great success! i cut and pounded the crap out of the fenders. still rubs a but on full lock and i think when reversing when the wheels are turned...? either that, or the locked rear is upset... probably a bit of both... have to say though... those tabs couldn't stand up to the punishment i put em through in the first 20 minutes of driving... pretzelled a strut and curled up the driverside lift brackets. i made new (thicker) ones today. the strut rubbed against the tire and kinda killed the sidewall. still good though. just took some of the side lugs off. beyond that, wheels awesome! had no trouble in the mud. gotta really pay attention to bumps though as it's easy to get hung up in the middle. has more diff clearance than my buddies toyota pickup on 37's... very comfortable too... i went everywhere a stock toyota on 33's and a welded rear went. not that that is saying much. we didn't go very far... more fun needs to be had! but i need to rely on this as a daily driver unti i can get the impreza back on the road.

i did a search but i didn't really put my heart and soul into it. so here i am asking the question. what fluid should i be using in my 87 RX trans and 87 RX LSD rear diff? I'm sure 75w-90 is fine for the trans. but what about the diff? I've only ever changed the fluid on newer subies with viscous centres and viscous rears. Thinking the RX might be a bit different? i have access to a drum of 75w-90 subaru 'extra-s'. The good shtuff...

that's pretty sweet. but you don't want to move the front wheels forward at all? i was thinking if you're doing a divorced t-case than the front xmember should get moved forward a bunch to make for a reasonable approach angle.

i am probably going to to rigging one up for the wagon. it still has the stock carb plumbing going into the inner fender. probably a bad call... do people still use the stock air can? or replace it with something else? the ram air affect was doesn't actually start 'ramming' until about 180mph depending on engine size, opening, etc etc... so don't expect anything. in fact it is probably worse for performance.

+1 from the Numbchux. won't fit. calipers won't clear the inside of the wheel. OEM 16" will fit. something like this will fit http://www.teamdynamicsracing.com/pro-race/Pro-rally1silver.htm expensive though.

i believe you're looking for 77-79 wagon/sedan/coupe or 77-81 brat.

you cannot use any 81+ brat crossmembers to swap in the 4 speed dual range. you need 81 and ONLY 81 brat crossmembers. not wagons, hatchback, coupes just 1981 brats... don't bother though. the 4 speeds are rather useless like bill was saying. will WILL need to notch the framerails. to fit the 5 speed you DO NOT have to notch the trans tunnel. You do need to lengthen the stock driveshaft. you will need to completely custom fab a crossmember to fit the 5 speed. you can use a modified version of the stock shifter linkages and just bolt it to the bottom of the trans tunnel of the brat. there is even a handy dandy weldnut in the perfect spot for it. the wiring is exactly the same as far as cleaning the harness goes compared to an ea81 and ea82. NOT AN EASY SWAP. EXTREMELY DIFFICULT. my brat is 3 years in the making. granted i am doing all supporting mods to keep me on the road instead of having a fast floppy jallopy brat.

get in touch with saltair. they seem to have a supply of old ea81 subies. finding a tank shouldn't be hard. i have the one from my gen1 but i'm sure it's different. or i could give suby jim a call but he is moving and he is clearing out his cars.

how do you turn...?:-\

that sounds wrong. there is a tuning issue with you engine. it's not valve float. my old engine wouldn't hit valve float until over 7k rpm. (yes i did it. and yes the engine is blown. but not because of that specific instance) tune your carb and adjust your valve lash.

how do you solve the clearance problem with the end torsion bars and the tire? wide offset wheels or what?

ok here is what you do. -warm up the engine. -press the throttle. -keep pressing it until the motor doesn't rev any higher. this is valve float. don't ever do this again. if you are anywhere near there then you're reving to much. redline is about 6k on these engines. you're nutty putty to go near there though. I did and now the motor is pooched.

the ej20 and the ej25 are the same size. if an ej20 fits, an ej25 will fit as well.