Zefy

The problem with this method of running a small electrolyzer with your power from the gas engine is it takes more power to create the brown gas than you will get out of it. So after it's all said and done you'll just have a 150lbs brick of water and components sitting in the back of your car sucking up power... if you can make it work (not just function, but work to it's expectations) then i would really like to see it.

yakima is on crack if they said there was no fit solution for the factory rack. there is a track that is on the top right? with a groove in it? it would use yakima control towers or thule 430's. the 430's would be TK2's i believe. yakima i'm not sure however i can check tomorrow... it is fine to run bikeracks backwards as long as you can get past the fact that your bikes are going the wrong direction. (completely safe to do) bucky, technically what you need is an xadaptor kit. however if you've already worked out a solution than good, however if you want it done properly (or 'the thule way') and maintain that lifetime warranty you should look into getting it. OP, get yourself to rackattack. either make your way up to canada and check out the location i work at or head to the portland location on your next roadtrip or whatever... we can set it all up.

they look very similar to the brakes pictured however notice the japanese lettering on the calipers... i would say you're looking for a japanese make... perhaps converting to suby brakes would be a good option? fresh calipers go on ebay all the time...

do not just jump into this. your engine has pretty much only one thing in common with an sti engine... the part that says 2.5... besides the displacement the blocks are completely different. sti block is designed for boost with low compression while yours is designed for N/A furry with high compression. if you slap a turbo on your car and expect to run stock sti boost you will granade your motor. do a search on nasioc or something as this topic has been discussed MANY MANY times. there is even a section in there exactly for doing such mods. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=50 its a BIG job...

here in BC the jump seats are the only pickup that can have passengers in the bed. mine is registered as a truck however i could argue that it was registered as a car in OR... from what i understand it is the same price or cheaper and my emissions can be through the roof. mine also has to do the dyno thing but it doesn't get the graph. Just need to hold a constant 50km/h for a couple minutes. hopefully when they do i do it again they won't notice the ej22 sitting under the hood...:-p

must be different for canadian rally then. the front bars aren't even tied into the a-pillars...:-\

that's pretty sweet however that cage doesn't looks like it's spec'd for stage rally... wonder what it will be used for...?

so for this to work the stock wheel studs have to be removed and replaced with bolts? then the wheels would need to be bolted on using a lug similar to german cars...? this seems like a costly and complicated solution however it is the only way i can see the design you've drawn up can work. if that is not the way you are planning it, then you need a countersink in the plate for the nuts or bolt heads to fit in.

looks like a sweet engine! does it turn over still? can you get a look at the cylinder walls? they are most likely pitted due to all that water being in there however it looks like the block is the only part that was left untouched so swapping everything over to a new(er) block shouldn't be a huge issue. get those heads cleaned to make sure the valve seats aren't ruined and order up a engine rebuild kit and get those heads rebuilt and throw a complete engine together.

you're welcome to the one off my brat... i'm using pins so the latch is no longer needed. mine worked fine since removal. i would just need to find all the bits... i'm about 1.5 hours from bellingham if the boarder is crappy...

not really... after my car accident work slowed to a hault as i couldn't really move... i did small jobs like make fiberglass doorpanels and play with the piggyback ECU. after i finish school (next week) i will hopefully get cracking on the rear suspension and sort out the front. 5 lug is easy for the front. the rear is a little more difficult... i'll post up some results when i'm finished... (or possibly scrapping the whole rear end, who knows!!!):-p i have a set of rear discs that came off my brat... if you're interested let me know! if you want to adapt the front struts i would sugest looking into koni inserts and ground control coilover sleaves. completely adjustable and you make them to fit your application.

ahhh yes... i thought that was what it looked like but i didn't see a compressor so i was all ... are you planning any other mods to help support and balance out that engine?

cool! brand new car!!!

it is rediculously easy to do an alignment on these cars. i did it myself when i drove the brat as a DD. here is how to do it. for this to work the car must have MATCHING tires all round without bulges and unglynesses... similar to stock size tires and proper pressure all round. step 1: get the car on a flat smooth surface with enough room for it to roll back and forth a bit. step 2: lock the steering wheel in place (straight!). best way to do this is to open the windows and put a 2x4 like object across the doors and clamp it to the steering wheel using a C-clamp or something. make sure it's tight! step 3: get a nice big light under the car so you can see exactly what you are doing. this is precision eyeballing here. (don't freak out, it works) step 4: loosen the lock nuts on the tie rods and lube up/clean the tie rod threads if they are gunky. step 5: hardest part to understand. what you want to do is line up the inside sidewall of the front tire with the outside of the tread on the backtire. re-read that a few times now... a crappy picture to help: the red line represents what you are trying to do. my picture is super unrealistic. your tires won't be \ /. But that is the proper alignment of these cars. get down on your belly so you can see it properly and set your eye right along the inside sidewall of the tire. Don't use the bottom of the tire as your reference as it tends to bulge. also keep your head level so you aren't referencing the the middle of the front tire with the bottom of the rear tire. Keep it level. this is where i consider the tread of the tire to end. (where the flat part of the tire ends and the sidewall begins.) so go about 1/3 up on the sidewall as your reference and get your eye shooting right along the sidewall and it should line right up with the rear tread. step 6: only turn the tie rod adjustment a little at a time as the tires will tick to the ground and not give a proper result. you have to roll the car back and forth (about a foot or so). this will settle the tie rods and you can continue with more adjustment. you may have to do this many times (depending on how bad it is) so take your time. step 7: tighten the lock nuts and take it for a test drive. don't freak out if it isn't done correctly the first time. i butchered it the first time because i was hurrying. the second time i didn't have the wheel totally straight so the wheel was turned when i was going straight. 3rd time is the charm! i have tested this on an alignment machine and it works perfectly. good luck!

nice work! i need to get finished with mine... what is the extra core intop of the engine for?

this is why sti's come with 6 speed close ratio gearboxes. so it's in the right right place for the right purpose. on another note. you are talking about putting it into a gen2 correct? the eg33 is SOHC. the EZ30 is DOHC. if a DOHC EJ motor won't fit then the EZ30 won't fit either. (but that's what a hammer is for) the EZ30 is shorter than the EG33 because it uses a timing chain instead of a belt.

^^^hook a wideband up to your engine... it isn't going to be running at 14:1.. actuall stoich is 14.7:1... it will run right out of the box with more fuel. reason for this is to protect from detonation with change in altitude and other conditions it is better for manufacturers to be safe than sorry. the reason race cars run something like 12:1 is to protect their motors from blowing up when running lots of boost and such. in this circumstance, you're wrong... more gas DOES NOT = more power.

If the price is right i might be willing to sell my rear discs that have been modified to fit a gen1...? they will rock your socks...

from what i remember the actual brake line is 3 parts. there is a soft line going from the wheel well to the strut. on the strut is a hardline then after the hard line there is another soft line to the caliper. so my guess is these two lines are reference to the soft lines. If you're replacing the whole thing then buy both i guess...?

a friend of mine has two trailors using suby rear suspension... both from ea81 vehicles... one is a FULL autohauler trailor that uses two suby rear axles... with a car on it it still has 2 feet of clearance under it... I've used it and it works well. however it was designed for a loyale wagon so a legacy is to heavy for it and just about to big... brakes are functional aswell because it uses the stock rear drum brakes. he also made one with a single ea81 rear suspension that has the torsion bars jacked up all the way for carrying a snowmobile. that one unloaded has a solid 3 feet of clearnace under it... loaded it drops to about half that... they make really nice trailors and i would do it if i had the time, money, and need for a trailor...

i am using the FT4WD d/r gearbox from an 87 RX... so it's the same case as the ea82 d/r 5speed..

the only way i could see it working is if you had the trans xmember from an 81 brat which came with ea81 running gear in it to start with... that odd ball crossover year might make it easier to fit...

^^^from my research, not even close... the ea71 transmission xmember sits way further back than a ea82 or ej xmember...

yes mine is in, and no it doesn't really fit... about half an inch is needed on either side without lifting. to fit the d/r 5speed in there you need to delete about half the middle section of the trans xmember or cut out the entire centre. problem with this is you lose the swaybar. wiring isn't to bad as the brat only has 2 engine plugs once you delete all the ignition stuff by the battery. i would say its almost easier than doing ea82 as far as wiring because the brat doesn't have any wiring to deal with in the first place. i plumped all my wiring down into the passenger cubby area so i can access my pp6 and wideband. (i'm not going to run stock motor, hence the tuning software) the transmission is a VERY tight fit in the tunnel. i could not get the transmission mated to the engine while it was in the car so i had to do it all together... here is a couple pics... aaand a movie of starting it up after cleaning up the wiring a ton...

the justy already has 4x100 wheels which is one of the most common sizes for small imports. pretty much anything older than 2005 and says 'civic' on it will fit. toyota corollas, etc etc... LOTS of wheels. besides that though, i don't think it will work very easily. i've never looked under the front of a justy, but the back is SUPER different from anything subaru has on any other cars. i think it's probably more similar to a nissan. i would look into other brands of vehicles for different brake and suspension options.