roostema4328

If you do a search on it. there is a way to hook up the vacuum lines so the turbos run parallel. then it would be free and you wouldnt need a standalone.

just throw out all that switching ************ and run the turbos parallel. then no more VOD. just extreme power. ha ha. thats what I did. of course I have a linkG4 standalone running mine. so I can do what I want.

looks familiar lol. I have a ej20r twinturbo in my ea82 wagon. I had to move the column to miss the turbo. ha ha. my master fits fine. but I have a 6" SJR lift so the engine sets lower in the frame.

this is awesome. cant wait to get one. to build my RWD RX. nice work. I will def be picking one of these up when I come up with the cash.

the front brakes are a little better on the ea82s. so try to swap the knuckles and all that stuff. i think the ea81 has soild rotors and the ea82 has vented. much better.

I shortened mine myself It actually wasnt too hard. IT has held fine so far. I believe I had to cut 1.5inch or so out of the front part of the shaft that was before the carrier. I drew a paint line down it to make sure I got it lined back up exactly as before.and made sure to make as straight of a cut as possible. welded it back up with my mig welder. has worked great so far. no vibrations up to 120mph ha ha.

I would swap the brakes/hubs and the trans into the brat. but not the engine. you would have to rewire it because the brat came with ea81. I honestly would swap in an ej. I personally wouldnt go through the wiring for the ea82.

you said you wanted a H6 because that would be cool. we all seem to agree that ej engines are better. so in conclusion I vote SVX engine. ha ha have both.

http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/EA2EJ.pdf ^ej swap guide^

you could but why? it would not last long and not have probably as much power as a stock bomb proof ej22 n/a.

those transmissions are probably virtually the same. The final drive may be different though. I would pick the one that had the final drive ratio that you want and of course get the diff to match. probably 4.1 but could be 3.9 usually the outbacks had the 4.4

yes but the struts may lift the front of your vehicle too much. you would have to lift the rear or cut a coil out probably. to make it level.

or WOT on the pavement.

I put a new regular one in mine when I swapped it and it only lasted 200 miles. hopefully you have better luck than me. be easy on it.

if you drive it hard at all you will need that xt6 pressure plate. just because the discs are the same dont mean nothing. The regular plate is very weak and does not put nowhere near enough pressure on the disc. You will fry your clutch. IMHO.

yeah it looks great. It looks even better in person.The offset of the wheel fits perfect it has 1955516 tires on the wheels. It looks almost factory. The only drawback to them is that the center hole in the wheel is too small to fit. You have to grind all the original tabs that are on the hubs that centered the original wheels flush. That takes a while. but the end result is awesome. those wheels and ws60 blizzaks. only took 1.25 oz of weight to balance the whole set. oe wheels are always way better quality than aftermarket.

If you look at the wagon above. It already has the wheels and adapters on. those are transferring over. you can see that they are 5 bolt. haha going to start parting out the wagon this weekend. then haul away the body and start stripping everything out of the RX. the original rx trans and engine will be for sale if anyone is interested.

ha ha. Im not. You found a typo. lol I will fix. 5x100/5x4.5 same bolt pattern as jeeps or ford rangers. more wheel options in that bolt pattern. all the 5x100 offerings are positive offset.

Plan is to gut my RX. PIC as of now with 6 bolt conversion. bone stock AWD/AT 1.8 EA82T Gut out my lifted 86 GL wagon Install all parts from lifted wagon into the RX. Finished project should be like this mod list. SJR 6" lift EJ22T with EJ20R heads and turbos turbos running parallel WRX intercooler 38mm external wastegate 4 bar MAP sensor and boost gauge 86 GL instrument cluster MT Front legacy SS calipers and steering knuckles rear xt6 control arms, hubs and brakes xt6 brake master cylinder megan racing coilovers for 05 outback 4.1 legacy trans and rear diff 17x9 cobra replica wheels powdercoated candyred 5x100-5x4.5 wheel adapters innovate wideband dual thrush exhaust 255 LPH external fuel pump adjustable fuel pressure regulator 850cc five o motorsport injectors ACT stage 2 pressure plate with kevlar disc link G4 ecu Should be fun lol

86 gl wagon 6"SJR lift + coilovers for 05 outback 5bolt conversion with 5x4.5 adapters. 17x9 cobra style wheels powercoated red. 2656517 blizzaks. Same car with 6" SJR lift without coilovers, chopped bronco2 springs installed into stock clearanced struts. was on before I went to the smaller tires above because the transmission could not handle the rubber. 33x12.50R15 bridgestone dueler MTs american racing baja 15x8 6 bolt. moms legacy with otback struts. stock wheels 1857514 cooper ats.

I would not set up the front with negative camber. I have found after doing a lot of alignments that these legacys need positive camber in the front. They are that way because when you hit a bump it transfers the energy away from the car. If you have it set negative it will cause the energy to transfer right into the car. The main thing that happens is it wears out the rack and gets end play. It will clunk like crazy when you hit bumps driving it around town. I had a 2001 outback that was clunking constantly from the rack when hitting bumps in town. the rack had some end play. I suggested replacement and said that it could probably benefit from an alignment. They chose the alignment. I checked it and it had -.6 degrees camber on the LF. I adjusted it to the spec of +.3 and the clunk actually went just about completely away and the clunk was very constant before.

My idea for this which I havent done yet but know I could and may do someday. Is too use a rear diff from a ford explorer or expedition with independent rear suspension. I would install a locker in that and install in the place of the stock diff. Probably could find tons of them in the scrap yard. they are 8.8" same ford has used for years. I am sure I could find a way to bolt/shorten the driveshaft to fit the pinion flange. cut the cvs on the ford unit and the ones in the car. Weld together and blammo. I know this could be done and I could do it. very time consuming though. lol I still need to build my engine first and I am poor these days.

Now only if we could convince that company to make 4.44 regular cut gears for a ea82 d/r gearbox. lol

well the funny thing is that it also affects the idle control circuit too. The ecu uses the coolant temp info for cold idling/high idle. so if air bubbles go by the idle could surge and drop intermittently.

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