greenleg88

hmm mkay.. do you happen to know where those two other vaccum hoses go or are for? and it looks like those just dont exist on the 96 model... any ideas why? or am i just mistaken?

true to all points. and i suppose it realyl doesnt kick on all that much for me. its just there have been a few times recently where i feel like abs has almost caused me to crash because it was working. ive followed two cars recently that didtn have any brake lights.. and therefore have recently experienced the abs. sure you could argue i was too close. but thats not wat the threads about, plus in slow traffic it wasnt that close. there are moments when because the abs is working, im anticipating my car crashing into something at liek 2 mph purely because of the abs. and had i just stopped based on my pedal feel, i know i could have stopped in time without having to get that anticipating a pitifully slow crash feeling. hope that made sense.

i just installed a cai on a friends car.. and i wanna hear that sound... probably just for a few weeks.. until i get bored... hah so i see on my current stock box, thers three vacuum hoses... if i were to just hook up a straight pipe, i would just need three nipples for the vacuum hoses to hook up to and im set right? can i use a T adapter for some of those off and have one? since thyere all going to the same spot (after maf,filter and before throttle body) ears open to any comments. ps. i guess another question related is.. what does the 96 legacy L intakes look like and how do they hook up? i know theres no big box in the back near the firewall.. its just a straight hose from the TB to the airfilter box.

eh, assuming theres nothing else hooked up to that fuse i planned on just butting a blown fuse in there... and anyone else driving my car.. wont be a fan of abs either. heh thanks for the tips.

when i stop hard, i hate the way abs comes on. i want to make a abs kill switch. would anyone advise against this? is it bad to just shut it on and off? i would probably keep it off most of the time... and no im not feeling like superman with my brakes.. i just feel like with good pedal feel, the car can stop in a shorter distance without abs.. which i know it does.. and if not anyone know what fuse off hand? and if anythign else important is hooked up to it?

just might be able to get a 97 BD for 500. not sure of the miles.. but im sure its ~120+ but even then, i can use it for parts if i decide to get it.

get a new cluster at a junk yard? or is it the sensor that is bad?

so im looking through this haynes manual... it says for the caliper support bracket, to torque the bolts: front - 51-65 ft-lb rear: 16-23 and the slider/ lock pins front: 25-33 rear: 144-204 do these sound correct? it seems strange to me. i had thought around 80 or so for the support bracket and around 30 for the caliper lock pins on the front and rear... im just wondering if this is a typo in the haynes manual...

are there enough people that people on this forum have a big meet somewhere on the east coast?

imo i think i like the stock look better... i think even with an exhaust on my car.. id want to keep a stock look... just me.

yeah i know... theres a hot and cold line... and it was below the cold line at hot..

hmm ive nvr had anti seize on the o2 sensors ive bought.. granted i only bought two.. an dnot from a dealer.. but... yeah...

my power steering is low.. why is that? where does it get used up? or is it leaking or something....

i do believe that blue stuff is normal.. but idk about the anti seize.. maybe its just a nice gesture =D hah

heh. someone said it coudl be the calipers frozen in place cuz the slide pins werent greased well or have worn away or something?

that HUGE thing that has a cable running to the throttle body? i thought that was cruise control.. maybe im looking at the other big roudn black thing..

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp according to that, the tire is a little wide for the rim.

hmm so i banged on them both.... i guess i need to look for heat shields.... how many and about where are they? i cant put the car on a lift yet and dont really know where to start looking-i cant see any heat shield just from sitting down and looking under the car.

eh. the fronts dont look so bad.. the rears i think are about ready.. in fact i think ive heard it grind.. i feel like with worn pads, its a different feel.. it just feels like theres an air pocket im forcing down.. where is the brake booster? and how does that work?

hm its about 10k miles old.. and how would that help? isnt that just about recirculating air or something.. i dont realyl know what it does.

yarh.. draco performance? eh? try the BBB.

i feel like i have to press really hard for my brakes to stop... even at a red light or something i have to put a lot more force on the pedal just to keep the car stopped. and when stopping from 50 or so it doesn't feel like any other car i drive or have driven. so since im just talking about pedal feel... my guess is they need to be bled?

so when i first got the car... it did 3500 miles fine... and then for about 900 miles, it leaked and i mean leaked a quart of oil every 300 miles.. but somehow that some how fixed itself.. i dont know how... or why.. but thers no smoke from dripping on the exhaust anymore and ive just been reading about seafoam and how it can take out carbon buildup and cause high mileage engines to lose compression.. and perhaps clean out any thing that was clogging up potential oil leaks. does techron have a similar effect? do you think that is what caused my car to start pouring a quart of oil every 300 miles...?

yup i did it.. and then i had to get an mpt clutch changed? which was done at the dealership so im assuming the fluid was drained and refilled then too...

should i be expecting the first or second cat to be shot? or perhaps both? is it illegal to remove one of the two cats? just curious... ive heard of someone having the secondary one removed? would that only be half the fine since its only half the action...? hah