SoobieDoo

Yeah, I'd say our rust probs here are only better due to the de-icer...but still not good. Maybe you can find a soob from oklahoma or someplace! Ospho wouldn't work at all on a car previously oiled too. Think that i'll scrape off all loose undercoat, double coat of ospho, then oil. I might try some stuff called Kroil. It's supposed to be very good and is advertised as "the oil that creeps!"

They use salt there in maine? I believe WA uses de-icer, but I'm right on a bay also. Still, the rust isn't too bad...yet. Ever used Ospho, or some other phosphoric acid? It's supposed to be painted over, but I've used it on a regular basis to stop rust. Maybe a good app. of that before oiling!?!

Just saying fast compared to a good app. of undercoating. Some people are not very good at regular maintenance, and twice a year may never get done. It does now need to be redone, but the factory undercoating on my car is over 20 years old. I'll be oiling my car!

Oil will be easy and cheap, but needs to be applied regularly, as it will wear off. If you committed to doing that, say with every oil change, that's fine. But...if you know that you won't do that, spend the time and money to undercoat it. That means stripping off all of the factory junk and coating everything really well. I'd still call the rubberized stuff regular maintenance, but you won't have to deal with it once a year. I've heard POR15 is good stuff, but $$$.

Door panels: Unscrew armrest, carefully pry out the plastic pins around the door, pop out the door latch trim, and pull up to remove the whole panel. I just did this on my own '86 GL...should be the same panels. I'd use rubberized undercoating in the wells. It is softer, more flexible than paint. Even epoxy paint can chip when it's hit by a rock at 100+ mph. Stay away from high-heat paint for the wheels. They are a flatter, less durable finish and you won't need 1200 degree resistance. If you are concerned about heat, go with an engine enamel. Aervoe makes them in a durable, gloss finish, good to 350 deg. Personally, I'd use Hammerite for the wheels/bumpers. It's avail in smooth, as well as that funky hammered look, and actually has powdered glass in it. Stuff is slow to cure, but nearly as tough as a powdercoat. Don't forget surface prep! It is key to a good paint job. Clean, dry, de-glossed, and sound (nothing loose). Good luck, and don't forget before/after pics!

Weld...but for future patches, only use Jb where you need some heat resistance. It's good up to 600 degress, but there is much stronger epoxies available now. Superweld has a tensile strength of 7,450 psi, Jb is about 3,950.

You can't lose for 40-80 bucks. If nothing else, the parts are worth more than that. Good find!

I agree GD. This one was purchased from Jerry Demoss here, though. I got the web rebuilt and a ported intake for a great price. He even threw in some wiring for the choke! He did a flawless job...It was having a mechanic install it that was the mistake. First he removed the choke because it interfered with the power steering pump, then apparently "forgot" to snug up the carb's hold down bolts!!! That was the first thing I checked when I found the gas in oil prob, 'cause I trusted Jerry's work. BTW, thanks for all the tuning tips, GD. I searched and found!

Sheoot!...Still can't go guys. Had the forum been up sooner, I could'a taken the time off work. Oh well, there's always next month, and I'm still tuning the new/old weber. Need anything from hardware sales yet, Jeff!?

Thank you so much, nip! I'll get a hold of the guy that rebuilt it, and ground the car 'till the oil change.

I think you pegged it, nipper! I got a pretty good gas smell from it, and the viscosity seems way too thin. That can only be the carb?

Could be...that would explain the high oil level. The weber is rebuilt, but it's still not working quite right. I'll go smell the dipstick real quick.

I will do that mechanical check first thing Sunday. Mine's an EA82 with 180K and just did a weber swap, if that helps any. I don't have any warning lights, other than the ECS, but actual gauges on the dash. Temp is C to H, and oil pressure is up to 85psi. Previously, even when full of oil, the gauge would not show much more than halfway, 45psi, up to 3500rpm. Now, it's showing the same psi when grossly overfilled. Could overfilling with oil correct another cooling problem, such as rad. cap? I guess time will tell, when I check the dash gauge against the mech one.

Yeah, I haven't checked it with a mech gauge yet. I'll buy one. The thermo is brand new and caused no overheating previously. The radiator and hoses are not new, but old receipts show that they have been replaced some time ago. To clarify: The spike was temp to hot, not oil pressure. The pressure gauge did show low pressure, until I overfilled it. Then it showed pressure as normal, before this problem. I just don't suspect the cooling system, because adding oil dropped the temp significantly (H to just above L) Should I drain the oil to the max point, where to connect the gauge, and what should the pressure be? Thanks!

I've got a '86 GL Wagon 4wd, that's always run cool...up 'till now. Driving home from work the past two nights, the temp gauge has spiked near H and the oil pressure gauge has been low. Since she's always been an oil dripper, I added a quart and all was fine. I didn't check the dipstick 'till I got home and found the oil is way overfilled. The radiator is not leaking, so I suspect the oil pump. Doing the swap, along with timing belt, is this a day job and can I trust my chilton? I can work on it Sunday, so I know that I should ground the car, but how is an oil overfilled engine damaging? Thanks in advance for any tips, tricks, and advice!

That's too bad. I like snow driving, but when it's ice, that just sucks. Sand can be a real blast, though. If there are any dunes you could drive on, I'd be mounting some ATV paddles on the soob!

Good video! Looks like you've got some pretty nice areas over there. Ever get any snow/ice to drive in?

Sounds good! Know I'll not make it this month, but no prob. Different days would be nice too. My Sunday church is best amongst the trees!

I'd like to join you guys soon, but work saturdays. I can trade or take sat's off occasionally, but not this time, due to my trip on the 20th. Nice pics on your other post, though! My car won't be ready for that for some time.

Our cars could be twins, once I lift it. I'll probably paint at some point, though, just to keep the rust away. Ever have probs with rubbing? I'd stick a feeler gauge in that wheel well!

Better than a fire hydrant, more...natural!

I'll just back into a fire hydrant now, and get it over with!

Naw, thanks anyway, Jeff. Mine was only $500, just suprizingly straight for that little. Maxed out on parking space at home, anyway.

Will do, thanx!

But, my body is so straight...soob's too! Can't get body damage when it's stuck in a pothole. So far, haven't even finished my 1st tune-up, let alone lift, wheels, weber, etc. Until it's ready, though, would still like to go on trips. Could take film, ride along, pound out dents, bring beer!