Twitch de la Brat

I don't think my engine will be capable of spinning that fast, even free revving And I know I'll be running out of power somewhere around the 4500-5000rpm range. So the desire to spin it up past that will be negated. Thank you for the tip though Twitch

I know, I know. Unfortunately in my case, I was unable to source a reasonably priced set of new EA82 pistons, so I went with the EA71's because they were less expensive and readily available. If it blows a piston apart in the first 1000 miles I'll accept your "I told you so". Twitch

Ok, so updates! I got flat top EA71 Pistons and and on the verge of being ready to put it all back together. I'll let everyone know how tight the tolerances are between the valves and piston. Also, the 2 nut method worked fine. I got some extra nuts and studs just in case any are stretched on the threads used to remove them from the block. Twitch

I sniffed my coolant. I hate EA82T's. But the EA81 will be driving soon. SOON. Heads were rebuilt and the block was honed, so I just need the miscellaneous little bits to put it back together... Twitch

You can also use Flickr and they provide links to display your pictures at specific resolutions. Plus, with Flickr you get a free Terabyte of storage Twitch

Damn. And I thought it was nice last year Looks like Zeh Vedge will have to get some upgrades to be competitive next year Not to mention Little Blu still needs finishing. Can't wait for it to be finished with the EG in there. It'll be a nose heavy sucker Twitch

Awwwwwwwwwww yeah... Twitch

It's amazing how spoiled we are compared to other drivers. I realize why people hate driving in the snow with a conventional vehicle. It really does suck compared to a Subaru. Twitch

Any EA82 Non-turbo axle will work in your car. As long as you match fronts with fronts and rears with rears, you should be fine. And junkyard axles, as long as they're OEM, should be fine. I would try getting new axles vs reman's. Because remanufactured axles are usually worse off than used OEM. Twitch

Noted, I'll check my clearances Oh, got my pistons yesterday! *squee* Shiny, shiny new pistons. If anyone needs to get any, the parts number is ry2666 for ITM pistons, I got a set of 4 (obviously) and they were made in Japan. They also seem to be of good quality; look OEM or better Twitch PS: These are EA71 pistons. Not EA81, they are taller and provide more compression in an EA81. I'll provide pics of how they look with the engine all together, and how far out of the hole they'll stick with .020" taken off the block

If you need another Lego ECU I've got one laying around as well, as well as a few miscellaneous bits from my old parts car. And don't forget that I live near P&S Twitch

Looks like I was looking at the wrong info, than you for the clarification. The pistons and rings I'm getting are ITM, so I'm not sure how they fall in the ranks of manufacturers. So far they seem to use the Beck Arnley part numbering system, and if their quality is similar, I should be good to go. Twitch

"Chrome-moly" is an alloy featuring primarily chromium and molybdenum. The material tends to be extremely wear resistant as well as non-corrosive/corrosion resistant. It is used heavily in high grade tools and long wear items (such as rings). From my research, it appears to be the "premium" ring material. Your typical rings with be basic iron with maybe a moly face. The chrome face rings are probably chrome-moly. Twitch

Gotcha. I'll order my hone when I find out what rings I got with my pistons. Do you guys normally get chrome-moly rings with new pistons or are they typically basic cast iron-moly? Twitch

Ok. I'll look up some videos on youtube before I start into it, just to see how long to run it and how fast to have the drill for proper honing technique. Twitch

Ordered pistons for my long overdue EA81 project, and I'm picking up a Ball hone to do the cylinders with. Just wondering if I should get some plasti-gauge or just put it together without checking my clearances. And Now I have to locate that bottle of anaerobic gasket maker Jerry gave me... Twitch

Perfect, thank you. This is my first engine build and I really don't want to screw it up Do you recommend a certain type of 10w-30? Synthetic vs Conventional? Twitch

Thanks for the tip Ivan. I know about the taper, and shockingly this little EA81 has almost immeasurable taper on the cylinder Even after 200k. But I will be focusing on the bottom of the bore more-so than the top. Do you run the bore in spinning or slide it in and then start spinning it? Twitch PS: Part Number for the pistons is RY2666, an old Beck-Arnley number. Not sure who the pistons are officially made by yet.

Yes, and until the pistons arrive, I won't know, They might be moly, but then agaon they may just be basic iron. What kind of difference will it make? Twitch

Going to do a hone on my EA81 and was curious about any tips on proper honing technique. Such as if the oil is a requirement and if it's recommended to do it in a certain temperature range. Figured this would be good info for anyone doing bottom end engine work. Thanks in advance guys. Twitch PS: This is the hone I'm planning on using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002PIBBSK/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&m=A221LQEWFFVQAG

I can validly say that Blue Devil works. I had to use it right before WCSS because the HG's popped on my EA82T and I didn't have the time or money to do a HG job. As for the lack of power above 4K, is your ignition timing dead on? As was mentioned, check your fuel filter. Make sure that's not clogged or slow flowing. Check the lash on your throttle cable, Make sure you're getting full throw out of the throttle shaft. Have you run any seafoam through the fuel system? You may have some crud or varnish in the carb. Do you have any valve tick? Do you have proper oil pressure? Improper oil pressure can cause a tick and make hydraulic lifters fail to fully inflate. That will limit your power. Twitch

Well, I pinned it down to either the wastegate control solenoid or the boost control valve. Not cool when your engine overrevs mid shift. Twitch

I went through Pull and Save today and found nothing like it. But I was in a bit of a hurry since it was near closing time. I'll go back and look again, but I haven't seen anything else like it. And I'm fearful of running the car without it, as if it is a boost control solenoid, the turbo will try to blow my car halfway to hell. But I'll test it. And if it's nothing, I'll just pop a T in there to keep all the vacuum lines connected and happy. Hope nothing explodes... Twitch

Broke that. I thought it was the 4wd control switch, but it's not. It's located directly below the intake on my EA82T, in front of the turbo. The fittings broke off, as you can tell. I think it may be the boost control solenoid, but I'm not sure what the hell it is. As usual, my Chilton's is useless. Anyone have any help? I also borked it when I tried to reattach the fittings with Q-Bond. The powder and liquid adhesive appear to have made it into the inner valve on the face. I'll post more pictures for more clarification soon. Twitch

It's not the head bolts. This car has 166k on it, all original. Factory. Not the head bolts. Just a crappy old PCV system that's clogged up and messed up with carbon deposits and oil deposits. I'm buying a bunch of high grade silicone hose to replace those hoses. I'm not really looking forward to having to do this again any time soon. So heavy duty stuff will be used to fix all of it. And I'll be 'foaming the vacuum lines as I go. Does anyone have a vacuum switch/modulator for the 4wd laying around? The oil destroyed the plastic fittings. So if I can redo all the PCV lines while I'm in there, I will. Twitch PS: I'm looking at the vacuum line routing and am trying to figure out how I can rerout the lines to minimize oil suction.