Twitch de la Brat

Link to said thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129404-pulling-engine-etc-through-the-eyes-of-a-noob/?hl=%2Bpulling+%2Bengine+%2Bnoob Twitch

First and second Gen Leagacies are pretty similar structurally, you may be able to get some body points to mount up for aftermarket goodies... Otherwise, you're barking up a tree that doesn't really exist. Twitch

Unfortunately there aren't a whole lot of "bolt on" upgrades you can make to your NA 2.5. Bigger (not by much) aftermarket exhaust can help and maybe a high flow air filter. Switching up to a higher quality oil and filter combo can help with the "butt dyno" as well. If you are willing to tear your engine down and get some machining work done, you can bump compression with a head shave and rework your head flow with a port and polish as well as getting a torquier cam. But that's just traditional hot rodder stuff. You might be able to find someone to retune your fuel mapping for a decent price. And if you start running out of fuel, you can upgrade to the bigger injectors found in the turbo cars. Those are about all I can think of, maybe some one else can chime in? Twitch PS: And the aftermarket ebay turbo kits are always an option, but you MUST retune after an install if you don't want to blow anything up.

Got lots of painting done Twitch

Running a diesel spec oil as well as a zinc additive should be sufficient to seat your cam into the followers in 2 or 3 oil changes. Flat tappets like friction reducers, such as Molybdenum and Zinc. So the longer you run oils with those minerals in them, the better your flat tappet engine will fare. Twitch

Better get it road trip ready so I can see it Twitch

Put diesel grade oil in it. You haven't worn the cam and the followers into each other, so there is excess friction occurring between them, creating sound. The diesel grade oil still has all of the good minerals in it that conventional car engine oil has had taken out. A 10w30 is your best bet to start with (Rotella 10w30 seems to be pretty easy to find) and let that run for a while. Did you run any break in oil in it? If you didn't, I'd be worried about your cam flattening out prematurely. You must have that zinc content to harden and coat that follower/lifter and cam impact surface. Twitch

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137196-the-blu-bomb/page-2 Link to car build thread and pictars... Twitch

Not to be a stickler, but please change to a better brand of filter if you're going over 3000 miles per oil change. FRAM filtration media leaves a lot to be desired. I recommend Wix (aka: Napa Gold), Bosch, Mobil 1 (if you're running synthetic) or Donaldson (if they have a filter available for your car). If you don't believe me, please, cut open one of your filters and another brand and compare them. You'll see the materials used and the quality of construction. Twitch

Fozzy's are pretty good cars. They're based on the Impreza platform, so pretty much all the major bits will swap over. Finding one that has a lot of options AND a 5sp is pretty awesome. If you know the timing belt was done recently and properly, that is a big bonus as they are interference engines. The price isn't bad either. I've seen those years go for $5-7K around here. As for the engine, you'll have an EJ251, or the SOHC 2.5. They do have headgasket issues, but they leak externally instead of internally. So you won't have to worry about it vaporlocking your coolant passages if the headgasket does let go. And changing head gaskets are the same as most any other SOHC Suby. You can do it in car, but plucking the engine is probably the faster route. EJ cars are typically reliable and solid. Not as solid and unkillable as our EA81's, but I would still roll in one My final verdict: Gopher it. Twitch

That's a shame I probably won't be able to make it either with school and only working part time. Money ceases to exist and time flees from me with haste. Twitch

Yeah. Hella flush. Also, after feeling it with the straight edge on it, there is the slightest raise from the piston vs the cylinder. Its .001" or less, but its still there Lets hope my valve clearance doesn't cause too much havoc on initial startup. So as long as my head gasket doesn't smash down below .030" I should be ok. Should. Twitch

Those would be SPFI pistons that have the valve reliefs. These are EA71 Pistons. I thought about SPFI, but I'm not sure the mapping could keep up with the high compression setup. And the last thing I want is pinging on the freeway. .030" off the total intake chamber plus pistons that are a .005"s taller, makes for a fun little geometry project. Lets just say, if I snugged the head down without the headgasket, there may be piston/head interference. That pic is a little closer to TDC. I'll get one either today or tomorrow that's at absolute TDC. Along with a shot with a straightedge up against it. Just so you guys can see I'm not kidding. Twitch PS: If a crappy little blue wagon kicks your butt getting up to the speed limit, don't say I didn't warn ya

Keep fluids in it, use NGK where possible in the ignition system and good filters. Beware cheaper wires, I've had misfires from Beldon (NAPA) and BWD (O'Reilly's/Autozone). Only wires I've found that have never given me issues are NGK. And don't be afraid to use di-electric grease. Those moisture related misfires will disappear or never show up with the appropriate use of it. It'll also prevent your wires from ripping out of their boots upon removal.from the wires. Twitch

There was a discussion on a car video series called /drive and they were discussing the reason there is no official turbo for the BRZ/FRS/GT-86 platform. There isn't enough clearance to mount the turbo under the engine like they did with the WRX. Also, the reasoning in the mentioned article is wrong about Subaru only getting a version of the GT-86 was because Toyota owns a 20% stake in the company. This is utter rubbish. The only reason Toyota got a GT86/FRS is because they own a 20% stake in Subaru. As we all know, Subaru was presented the idea by Toyota, and was convinced to build it, by Toyota. Next to nothing on the car is actually from Toyota. The direct injection system, and some design cues are about it. There may be a few other things I have missed, but there is very little that is non-Subaru in the car. This fact makes me wonder about the legitimacy of this article and if the writer did his research before presenting it for publishing. Twitch

Your limited slip in the rear (LSD) has clutch packs in it that lock the diff normally. They only break loose and allow slip under enough tractional difference, such as turning on a dry pavement corner. At 250k, there's a good chance those clutch discs are worn out and need replacing. This is not a beginner friendly task. Preloads and disc replacement can get tricky. As for getting stuck, you need to lock the center diff to keep traction going front and rear, otherwise your center diff acts like an open diff and your car can become a 1 wheel drive, whichever tire has the least traction. Twitch

Chances are, unless it has been swapped, you've got a 4sp d/r (dual range) rather than a 5sp. Watch the sunroof for leaks, they are infamous for it. Ask me how know. And your best bet to pick up some of that lost power you feel is to get a weber 32/36 DGAV carb. I recommend brand new and ShawnW (the owner and admin of the board) has a shop he sells parts and service through in Colorado. RetroRoo is the name of it and I got a weber from him for a steal. Also, clean up and paint those dents, even if its just a basic primer sealer. it will prevent that little red monster from even starting on your car. Twitch PS: Welcome to the board!

Ask, and you shall receive... And that's not even TDC I'll get some more pictures tomorrow with a head on the poor thing and the piston at top dead center. Btw, this is one of the few times I'd refer to my Subaru as "hella flush" I've also decided that I'm going to acquire an EA82 intake for my build. Better flow and my stock disty should play nicely with the sizing issue. Also, if anyone wanted to find a better setup for their air filter, Weber, K&N and a few other companies make an adapter to take a DGEV carb top and fit it to a 5 1/4" intake size, aka: hot rod aftermarket air cleaner diameter. I'll be hunting one of those down for cheap so I can snorkel the little guy for later "excursions" Twitch

Side note for reference, older Subarus were designed to handle e10 just fine. It specifies it in my 1986 XT's manual. So while the mapping may not be the best for the fuel, they are designed to run it just fine. Twitch

I was thinking size like an MR2. But move the rear axle farther back to make room for the driver and passenger. Place the front wheels right at the nose and voila, massive passenger space. Not to mention handling like a go-kart Twitch

I say resurrect the RS to its upgraded glory and mob it till it breaks. Yeah, its rare, but its rare like an Edsel. Rare for a reason. Not really ever going to be collector in its current body condition. Twitch PS: I voted never because you have access to a welder. 'Nuff Said

Soooo, over a year has passed. And the block returns to being whole! I'll have pix up soon, ones that don't show the poor thing laying in my trunk But the pistons are in, the cam is in, the crank is in, and it rotates like a dream. As soon as life slows down next week, the studs are going back in and that little bugger is getting its heads back on After that comes the water pump and the oil pump. Then the flywheel housing will be added and the pan shall find itself back in its proper place. Then after that, the intake will be ported slightly to adjust for the 1/32 taken off each side And then the weber shall be attached and the motor will find itself back in the car! Then all hell will break loose Twitch

Ed, My friend, You will be missed dearly. Your help will always be remembered and your wisdom treasured. Your kindness to those of us less knowledgeable and your patience will be carried on by those you taught. I weep tonight not just because I lost a friend, but because the world lost a great man. Thank you. I send my best to Jeanne and your family. Twitch (Ben)

Timothy, that hose is a bear to get at. I paid a mechanic to do it for me because it sucked so much. Best wishes. Twitch

Check your wires and distributor. Dry them all thoroughly and try to fire it over again. Twitch