Twitch de la Brat

The original choke power wire? Or just a random wire you found to use? Twitch

So, I may be buying a pie. Also, weber swap guys, what did you hook your choke power to? I have mine attached to the coil post for power and it seems to be getting extraordinarily hot and opening up all the way even when the car is cold. Does it need to be on a switch or anything? Twitch

If that's my problem I will bake (buy) a pie and name it humble. Then eat it. Also, realized from my pictures of my BRAT's ignition wiring that there is no ground running there. Although the condenser (noise/static suppressor) runs from my negative on my BRAT and the AM radio worked great. I'll snip that wire when I return home... Twitch

Naru, no light at all, under any conditions. Gloyale, going to check the wires tonight, but no pinches or appearances of anything broken. Again, there is verified power and ground on the coil. Literally have a ground lead running straight to the negative terminal on the battery. And tested the fan off the hot side of the coil so there is amperage as well as voltage running to the coil. Twitch

Everything suggests that it is. Because if it weren't, I have some serious issues to take up with the machinist. But I will verify that after I get off work today. Twitch

So the Blu Bomb project is stalled right now because of one little problem. I can't get spark. Replaced everything on the ignition system aside from the distributor, pickup, and ignitor. New wires, new cap, new rotor, new coil, replaced a couple sketchy end terminals, and still no fire. The car ran when pulled apart, drove to its spot where it sits. Verified proper wiring to the coil, replaced a blown fuse (been twiddling with wiring a tad too much), verified continuity from the positive and negative, fresh battery, starter cranks great, fuel pump pushing fuel, distributor has minimal shaft play, I'm at a loss unless somehow the pickup and the ignitor smoked from messing with the wiring so much. Any other suggestions? I'm no noob, but this is kicking my butt. Twitch PS: Full specs for those who don't know of my project: 1983 GL Wagon, Fresh Build (hasn't even broken in yet) High Compression Torque Cam EA81 w/ electronic ignition, weber 32/36, former cali spec electronic carb, manual 4sp d/r

Machinist in my case. I think he took it out when he dunked my block halves and forgot to put it back in. As frustrating as it may be, it was probably unintentional on his part. So my lack of observation cost me some oil and another bottle of break in additive, as well as a brass plug. Twitch

Cranked it over several times, spewed about 2-3 quarts of oil out the pressure gauge hole in the front of the block because the machinist took it out without notifying me or returning the plug to me. Now at work I will buy more oil, more break in additive and a freaking NTP plug because that's the ONLY american fitting on the whole (insert expletive)ing engine. But soon my pretties, soooooon... IT WILL BE ALIVE!!! Twitch

Next time, tape a toothpick to the side of the funnel before pouring Twitch

You know, you could always spin the drain plug out and the gear oil will pour in super fast. Twitch PS: Don't try this at home kiddos

That they are, especially when polished up real nice. They are currently on my 83 Wagon, they were on my 85 BRAT... Twitch

Try cleaning your IAC (idle air control) valve. It's kind of like a choke on fuel injection cars, and if it's not closing properly, it can cause your symptoms. MAF of carb cleaner should do just fine in cleaning it. It's a little solenoid attached to the intake, typically near the throttle body. There is a passage way cast into the intake where it bolts on. Spray your cleaner into that to clean the valve itself. If the solenoid itself is sticking, that will require replacement. Twitch

Check your vacuum lines and intake hose for leaks. It could be a simple cracked fitting or loose hose that expands with the heat to make the problem show up. With the recent work done to it, they could have bumped something or not tightened everything snug. Twitch

Sooo, I haven't a computer to post the new pictures with right now, but let's just say it looks like an engine again! As soon as I get a chance the engine is going into the car and it'll be test fired. Also, cranked it over by hand to check valve movement and timing and the thing has some serious compression even before the rings have seated. This is gonna be good Twitch

Oh hardy harr harr Yeah, it's going together as quickly as I can manage. My XT has a thermal short somewhere in the fuel pump power circuit or the control circuit. But when I drive it a little while in the heat (80's F) and leave it to sit for 10-15 minutes the fuel pump won't engage. Wait about an hour and the thing will fire right off like no problem. So I need to find that wire before I can rely on it during the day. At night when it's cooler, it's fine. Anyway, back on topic, had to buy ANOTHER intake because stuck/broken bolts are a pain in my arse. And apparently Subaru makes their thermostat housing bolts out of adamantium. Dulled every bit I threw at it. So upon frustration, a drill press and flexible drill bits, I ended up taking a bunch of aluminum out of the housing next to the bolt. Yay for $20 for another California spec intake from Pull and Save because apparently there are no other EA81's in the whole yard. WTF? Anyway, house sitting so I'm stopped by there to let the doggies run on my way home to clean this intake up and bolt it on. Oh the joys of 30 year old cars... Twitch

INCOMING PICTURE WHORAGE Whole Album And the main course all you picture lovers desire... Post Valve adjustment Post Oil Pump and Pan install Post water pump install And if you scroll through the album you can see some of the work I did to my intake to clean up the casting edges. Soon to have more done! Twitch PS: Shoutout to the little black speaker you see in the last 2 photos. Best working buddy I've had in a long time. 6 hours of play time at near full volume and loud, clear sound. Streams right off my phone and is pretty tough for those "oops" bumped off the table incidents.

I knew about the stock holdings. If Toyota didn't have that they wouldn't have gotten the GT86/FRS nor would Subaru have built a BRZ. And I was impressed by the engineering team that put together that bypass design in the intake. Very impressed. But they had to know it would get them disciplined by the WRC once the officials did a full test on the car. Probably didn't expect a ban, but still, they knew something was coming. Twitch

Of all the years to miss and NOT have my BRAT Damn. Well, glad to hear you guys had a good show this year. Brain, your refereeing probably kicked rump roast like usual I'm going to be stealing so many pictures to show off to those killer jump shots. EA81's fly better than EA82's Twitch PS: Thank you all for your pictures

I daily drove an 85 BRAT for several years and loved it. But it was my baby too. Hard to beat reliability wise though. Probably had over 300k (speedo cable came apart at 270k) on it when I got rear-ended. Never left me stranded unless it was my own stupidity. Took far too much abuse in that time as well. So, yeah. A gen2 makes a kickin' DD. A little slow, a little loud, but hell if they aren't drop dead reliable and beasts in the snow. Also, that low end grunt. Twitch

So, this is a rudimentary math sheet I did for flow rates out of a 1.8L engine. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9CA0A508CEACADDB!1327&authkey=!ACJ41AFMcHkhIuI&ithint=file%2cpdf This doesn't account for expansion or restriction. It is merely a maximum flow for an NA engine. Turbo charging changes all of these calculations drastically with compression rates and thermal expansion. But this allows you guys a formula to start with if you want to figure out the best exhaust size for your car. Twitch PS: The stock exhaust on an EA car is about as awful as you can get. The flow rate of a stock EA exhaust is still creating back pressure in top gear.

Oh how I am enjoying the irony of your username and posting about thread bolts failing... Twitch

Sounds like the previous owner ran it for too long with the clutch slipping. It probably glazed the disc from over heating. If you are willing to work at it, you can get the car up to speed and the "burn" the clutch into a downshift. This creates a reverse of the friction the clutch would normally see and can help extend the life of your current clutch. Its essentially "resurfacing" the clutch and recreating those friction points.. Twitch

If your dealer parts guy can find the part number Twitch

I'd have to machine far too much on the SPFI intake to make it work with the Weber. So I guess my cable extension for my dremel will come in handy And the reason I wanted an EA82 intake is because they are physically larger inside and my current intake is a cali spec, so its got all sorts of extra junk on it. But I'm going to make it work. I found an oil pump with only minor scarring and I have a reseal kit coming from Rockauto. So I'm going to seal it all up and clean it all up and see where I can go from here Twitch

You'll have to check your flywheel diameters, because the FWD clutch setup is smaller than the AWD clutch setup, therefore it would be lighter. But before you buy a new clutch, check your cable adjustment, its on top of the transmission directly behind your throttle body. If you tighten it, you push the engagement further up in the pedal. If you loosen it, the engagement will be lower in the pedal throw. I'd loosen your cable a bit and see if that changes the way your clutch works for you. Twitch