Twitch de la Brat

That it does. I'm sure I can hunt down an XT6 in the junkyard, and I usually order the XT6 clutch when I do the 5sp swap anyway to maximize biting force without compromising drivability and costing an exorbitant amount. Twitch

Thought so. I'll be doing that when I swap in the 5sp d/r. Any recommendations on how much to take off with a high-comp, torque build EA81? I'll be running an EA82 flywheel. Twitch

Necrobump. Any new on this? I need to acquire a lighter flywheel for my hi-comp EA81. I can shift the sucker faster than the engine drops revs (even with the stock 4sp) and it revs plenty quick right now, but losing revs is a pain. Takes way too long to return to idle speed. Twitch

Soooo my temp fix (ignoring it) on my tranny mount ended up eating an axle. Oh well. I'll just yank one off the BRAT and drop it in, as soon as I dig the BRAT out of the snowbank... Also, we finally have aftermarket transmission mounts! So $30 and a few bucks shipping from amazon and I'll have 2 fresh transmission mounts. Hell, I'll just order something for $5 and skip the shipping Anyway, thats the major updates. Still slowly sanding off the old paint with wind, rain, snow and the occasional brushing against with clothing Twitch

Don't be too surprised if you have to get a new intake. The bolt in mine was so hard it dulled brand new carbide bits (albeit harbor freight) Twitch

I've got a second Gen for sale... Also, I was just informed of a first gen for sale at a local lot in Hayden (North of Coeur d'Alene). To OP, congrats on the new acquisition! Glad you found us and that we could help. Don't forget to hit up the 1st Gen forum for any goodies or advice you may need. Twitch

Your car has a carburetor, and therefore no MAF Carbs usually don't care what filter they have as long as it flows enough air. I had (have) a K&N on my BRAT and I didn't notice any real pickup in power, but I did notice it's resiliency to oil coming through the PCV system. If you have higher mileage, a K&N may be worth it in the fact that it doesn't sog up with oil like a paper filter does. I may have the part number laying around somewhere for that if you'd like the exact number Twitch

*ahem* Noted Twitch

Time for a fun bit swap and junkyard drop off. Twitch

Apply said tension, apply penetrating oil, heat it with a torch, then find a brave (stupid) soul to whack it with a BFH (Big F-ing Hammer). Just make sure they don't crack the cup. Twitch

Tires are good, depending on brand of course, but the guy probably paid out the nose for them. If he gave you the receipts with them, you can go to an Les Schwab and they'll rotate them and do free flat repairs. But otherwise the place is a massive money sucking hole. Twitch PS: For example, they have a separate charge for mounting and balancing. It's like $12 to mount and $8 to balance a tire. Last time I had them put on a set of tires I walked out with over an $80 bill for 4 tires, mounted and balanced.

I just used the lookup on an auto parts store's website to find the bulb number required and then searched it on amazon. EG: "192 LED", and it brought up a good number of listings. Twitch PS: 192 bulbs are the bulbs for EA81 dash/indicator lights and front markers

I just used the lookup on an auto parts store's website to find the bulb number required and then searched it on amazon. EG: "192 LED", and it brought up a good number of listings. Twitch PS: 192 bulbs are the bulbs for EA81 dash/indicator lights and front markers

As has been mentioned, have you checked your alternator output? A random voltage spike can fry a lot of different things. Also, have you checked the backside of the fuse box for corrosion/broken/frayed wires? Twitch

Nice job. I'm considering doing the same for all of my dash lights, but the LED replacements are so cheap and easy to get... Twitch

Duty C Solenoid has failed. It is the solenoid that locks up the AWD in the transmission. You need to put in the FWD fuse unless it's really slick outside and you need the extra traction. What is happening is the center clutch pack is locked and when you turn, the tires are trying to turn at different speeds, but the clutch pack isn't allowing that to happen. So it starts to bind up the drivetrain and slows down the car. The easiest "remedy" is to plug in a 15 amp fuse into the FWD fuse holder on the front passenger side strut tower. The proper remedy is to replace the duty C solenoid and the clutch packs in the tailshaft of the transmission. Further details awaiting your response. Twitch

Did you change the wheels or tires on it? Twitch

I know I have been quite busy as of late, so prime photography times have been elusive. But its not pretty. Twitch

Been seeing a lot of failing alternators recently myself at NAPA. Starting to wonder if our rebuilder got a bad batch of components. Wonder if Delco is using the same suppliers? I haven't checked any other retailers to see if they've had a lot of returning parts yet or not. As for my 83 Blu Bomb, got him aligned and some fresh inner tie rods put on. Just so happens I got the last 2 inner tie rods left in at least a 3 state area. So apologies to any who may be looking acquire EA81 inner tie rods in the northwest. Only other one I could find was in Alaska Also swapped my good tires from the XT to the wagon since the XT is still down with an unreliable fuel pump. And still really don't want to have to buy one. Twitch PS: Finally got another car home, and now realize I just want it gone, so if anyone is interested in a beater BRAT (and I mean beater body-wise at this point), let me know. PM or e-mail would be best. Btwitchy102 at geemale dot coma

You working with Brown in Spokane? Or someone else? Also, don't be afraid to call up your local napa to get bearing numbers off of specs, because we have access to thousands of bearing numbers. This is of course dependent upon if your local store still has their bearing spec book. If all else fails, get a micrometer/calipers and call the Rathdrum store, (208) 687-5500. I work there and that book is very well known and used. If you're hoping to get me, I work Mondays and Fridays only right now; otherwise everyone else is pretty (or very in some cases) knowledgeable. Twitch

Considering the risk and cost of getting new bearings vs rebuilding the old ones, I'd say this may be an exercise in futility, but, to humor you, I'll try to exact some more details. You'd need to match your bearings exactly. And by exactly, I mean within a ten-thousandths of an inch. Type of bearing is obviously easy, but bearing speed rating needs to be matched as well. Also, depth alignment and getting the bearing to seat in properly could be a challenge. If you could set up a jig that seats the bearing flat and at the right depth, you might be on to something for a quick turnaround for customers/yourself. You know how to work wood? Twitch

Can't say for OEM, but Napa has some universal fitments that match spec for $50-80 online. You could probably cross their number with something on rockauto and get it even cheaper. Twitch

Years and years and years. Their death seems to be random and, unfortunately, untimely. I've only ever replaced one carbed EA fuel pump and that was because the previous owner had removed it Twitch

Right, I was implying that the other person may assist in doing it "right", as in not bastardizing the hell out of a straight car. Twitch

After reading your post, you're going to have to fab almost everything. Literally. The only "Aftermarket" for these cars is to go taller, and that's just those of us on the few old school Subaru boards. As was suggested previously, and only to emphasize it, declock the rear torsion bar and possibly find/make some shorter front springs and struts. And no, torching springs or simply cutting off part of the spring isn't "making" new springs. You haven't stated, but is it 2wd or 4wd? There is a gentleman somewhere on here with a 1st gen (EA71 body) with it slammed and cambered. If you can find him he may be able to offer a few tips on how to do it right. Twitch