Twitch de la Brat

Proof in the puddin'! Twitch PS: Click the picture to get to the thread.

So, as some of you may know, I just got my first snail. So I'm sure all of you are dying to see pictures of it. So here you go. Now that the picture show is over, I'll relay the details. Just rolled it over 159k, one owner, driven, but not abused most of its life, completely loaded with options (even has an aftermarket tape deck installed), sunroof doesn't leak (not inside anyway) interior is clean and decent shape, still has the sunroof carrying bag (never been used, still smells like formaldehyde/treatment chemicals), slight leak in the trunk that needs to be hunted down, and rust spots in the sunroof that need to be taken care of. But otherwise the thing look pretty much pristine. If anyone has a blue dash surround (the part that has the vents attached), I need a new one (previous owner smacked the dash and broke it). And an AC cover button. Mine is broke and refuses to stay on. But so far, so good. Needs a tune-up (NGK wires and plugs to kill a misfire issue) but otherwise it runs like a little monster with a screaming glowing snail from hell attached to it Twitch PS: And the AC will damn near freeze you out of the car

Congrats! I just acquired another one for the stable myself. I bought something I've warned multitudes of others to run from. 86 XT Turbo 4WD LOADED 1 owner with 158k on the clock. And damn near everything works Its my DD for now and will be staying completely stock. Damn those snails are fun. And I have joined the darkside officially now. Don't disown me yet though! I'm still finishing my EA81 torque monster. Twitch PS: After the EA81's rolling, I'll see which car is faster

I'm amused nobody has mentioned the effect of reverse force on the clutch itself. When you're rowing through gears normally that slight slip as you engage gears is pulling the clutch one way, and one way only. Well, to maintain a well scuffed surface (for maximum friction) you have to reverse the rotational force to prevent polishing of the surface. So in essence, engine braking scuffs the clutch disc and technically extends its life. Or so says my logic. Twitch

The glowing screaming snail from hell. It gives you a fever that can never be cured. Twitch

So, I may be joining the dark side. The snail fever is growing... Twitch

I already looked. There's only 3 available >_< I'm worried about power. As I already said it won't be revving high. I'm talking about sheer power. I looked at the EA82 pistons, and after talking with someone who's built a couple of these motors said the EA71's build more power. Twitch

Ok, show me where the EA82 spfi pistons make as much power as the EA71's. From those who have used both in high performance builds, high revving to torque monsters. And that potential for cracking is why I'm going with brand new/barely used. This engine will have an oil cooler, a high flow radiator, 2 cooling fans, and a mechanical temp gauge on both the oil and the cooling system. Overheating shouldn't be a problem on this engine, so heat fractures in the pistons should be minimal. Twitch

I'm already shaving the block Its losing a total of .030 off each side. And being able to run an EA71 for 8000 rpm for hours is good enough for me to run it in my high comp motor. This thing won't be seeing nearly that kind of abuse. It'll be my DD/Honda eater. Most of the time it'll be humming along at 2-3k, sometimes pushing up to 4 on the freeway. Its all about torque here man. And it seems EA71 pistons hold up just fine to torque applications. But I'll be finding out soon if I will be buying EA71 or EA82 pistons. It all depends on availability now. Twitch

The only problem is I'm looking for EA71 pistons. I have EA81 pistons that are just fine. I can re-ring them no problem. I was looking for higher compression EA71 pistons. They actually are approx .020" taller than EA81 pistons if I remember reading the thread right. And that's perfect for me. Because that'll leave me with about .020-030" between the head and the piston crown. Twitch

Ok. That's actually not a big deal in my case because I'm running a torque cam in it and will rarely see anything above 5000-5500. And I don't think I've ever pushed my stock motor that high... Thanks for your input though I'll do some research on piston design and why they fail to give me a better potential for endurance. Twitch

I can't say I have, but as long as the length matches and the mounts work, I can't see why they wouldn't work. That being said, the magnum's will have a very harsh, rough ride. They're made for heavy trucks and SUV's. The monromatics suck even worse. I sell them and tell people not to buy then unless they're desperate. KYB's all the way. Twitch

What circumstances make them crack? Like, what shape were the engines that had the cracked pistons? Thanks for the input, but I need to know what makes them crack, like normal use, or severe abuse. Because if the pistons last 50k, that's good enough for me. Twitch

I have, and after taking with someone who's done multiple builds, the SPFI/MPFI pistons just don't make as much power as the flat top EA71's. And I'd hate to get mostly through this and half-rump roast the pistons. Plus finding new/low mileage SPFI pistons is proving almost as difficult as EA71's. Twitch

Looking for new/nearly new EA71 pistons for a high comp EA81 build. And finding these little buggers is proving to difficult. Not more than I anticipated, but still tough. I can get ring sets all day long, but the pistons themselves are tougher finds. I'd go to a wrecking yard and get some, but with as much strain as they'll be under, I don't want to toss something in there that may have issues. Because pulling this motor back apart may not be an option for some time. And it'll be dealing with me trying to tune it and figure out what octane it'll take it to prevent ping... Anyway, anyone got any to sell? I've got cash and am willing to deal. Twitch PS: OEM Part number is 380050100 if anyone was wondering

Not to be a turd or anything, but you guys got different engines than the US market and they may react differently because of different emissions standards, differences in fuel, etc. Also, from selling auto parts/working on cars most champions and autolites run like garbage in Subarus (in the US market). Also, putting a standard resister plug in where a platinum or iridium was spec'd can make a major difference (problem) as well. I have seen a copper plug literally get the electrode get a hole burnt into it and also in a another case seen the ceramic get melted/boiled. Doing the reverse doesn't really change much though, aside from potential longevity. Twitch

Major congratulations! Looks like it was fun too. Lets hear it for AWD! Twitch

Ding ding! We have a winner! Yes, all the studs are out! And the machinist tried a stud puller. Shredded the threads about halfway down on one of the studs. The thing that finally got them out was a 500 ft lbs impact and double nut locked on there. And the last one took heating and cooling with penetrant to finally make it let go. It was a bear to get out. Thankfully minimal aluminum loss Heading back the the machine shop asap and ordering some EA71 pistons w/rings. Twitch PS: Lets hope I don't bend a connecting rod on startup

Noted and will be posting up my time off request at work. If I'm even still working there by the time the show rolls around Lets hope I have something quick and blue by the time this comes around... Twitch

Soooo, i got stuff done yesterday... Can you point out what's missing? On a side note, SEXY BOX Sexy cam in sexy box! Twitch

You could also try the platinum version if you wish, BPR6EGP. Never really heard of or seen a difference between the V-Power and the Platinum plugs in an old Subaru, but they do tend to last longer. Twitch

So, my weekend has been busy, but somehow Ken got me my Cam overnight. YOU GUYS ROCK. I talked to him at 4:00pm Friday. My cam was here Saturday afternoon. So far, the head studs suck to remove. Any hints on how to get them out? Other than heat and douse in penetrant. Crazyeights, we were talking about pistons, not SPFI I'll be bolting on and tuning a weber once I get the motor put back together and I can see how much the machine shop is going to peel out of my hide/bank account. Twitch

Justin, no knocking here. I love retro-ish stuff. The guy gave'm to me because I wa ooh-ing and ahh-ing over them Plus he didn't want them any more. Plus, from their looks, they've never been run. Came with 2 Hella 100w bulbs too Subruise, Ken said that the SPFI builds never really seemed to have the same power the EA71's did. So that really changed my mind Going with the expert on this one. Any suggestions on removing studs from a block? I've been heating and cooling one with a torch and some Deep Creep, but not luck so far. I'll be moving on to another one if this one doesn't move. Its the one the machinist screwed up, so I'm kinda using it for my tester. Twitch

Soooo, I got the block back from the Machine shop and he fubar'd one of my head studs trying to remove it. So he handed it back to me and told me to take the rest out by myself because he's too busy and doesn't want to charge me the labor to do them all. Well, I need a new stud, and possibly more, and buying them new doesn't seem to be a possibility any more. Anybody got any lightly used/new studs for an EA81 laying around? Also still looking for EA71 pistons. Ken changed my mind about the SPFI's, plus the fleabay seller ran out of stock before I could get any pistons from him. Twitch PS: Got some new goodies (FOR FREE) Basically NOS Hella 500's that are 20 or so years old

Just cut the pipe off the adapter and loosen the fitting. Find a piece of round metal that will plug the hole (often times a quarter fits) and tighten the fitting back into the hole. Viola, EGR delete. Twitch