Twitch de la Brat

Just kill it. Delete and good riddance. Twitch

Have you run any seafoam through the gas? Adjusted your idle screw at all? Are you driving it like a raped ape? Have you checked the little filter in the corner of the engine bay by the driver's side strut tower? Have you verified you have no vacuum leaks? How long has it been since the carb was tuned/rebuilt? Is it set for your elevation? Is it an electronic carb? Twitch

Very Possible. Working out getting stuff done with the machine shop right now. He's slow, but my paychecks are small, so it works Still wondering why Delta hasn't called me back yet, but I'm patient. I've been working a lot more weekdays than i was expecting. Twitch

Gotta work, sorry guys. Closing shift at work too, sucks like hell. Twitch

Keep oil in it, keep coolant in it, and don't let it bite the Honduhs. Especially if you feed it after midnight. Oh, and beware the curse of 30 year old aluminum. Do NOT over torque any of your engine bolts. Twitch

Sanded/removed paint on the rear quarter panels Sunday. The crappy rattle can by the PO came of quite easily with a refinishing brillo pad and a vinegar/soapy water combo. Just have to keep scrubbing at it, but I may switch to a proper sander with a similar grit pad to do the rest. Its a lot of work doing it by hand... Twitch PS: Still waiting on the machine shop for the motor as well as Delta for my cam.

Tentative for me. I may or may not have my wagon going by then. If I don't, I don't want to drag that sorry excuse for an escort up Bigelow Twitch

For those looking for a taller tire, the 205/60R13 is somewhat available. It has a 123mm tall sidewall. and I've seen it here and there online. I'm looking into a set once I get a set of rims that are wide enough to accommodate them. Twitch

Sorry Nip. I feel for you. I had a tire go bad on me in a 185/80R13 and ended up having to go with the 175/70 instead. It seems the only size now available is the 175/70 :-\ And for clarification, the 175 is the width in millimeters, the 70 is the sidewall height in percentage of the width. So a 175/70 tire is 175mm across the tread and the sidewall is 70% of that, or 122.5mm. Twitch

Go ahead and take a sip and let me know what it tastes like Twitch

Well fine, if you want your cake and to eat it too... You could always see what tire size will shoehorn into that tiny little wheel well, but the only new 13" tires I've seen come in the 175/70 flavor Twitch

Well, never got pix of the old heads. Sorry. Anyway... Split block Crank and Cam (cam is on its way to Delta) Whole assembly, "exploded" version Shiny cylinder walls And even after 200k, no cylinder lip And just for the hell of it, verification that I did have genuine Subaru pistons All of the necessary goodies are at the machine shop and being prepped and cleaned up. Didn't order pistons as I don't know if I'll need the block to be bored, but I don't think it'll need it. Got taxes in, so costs are covered for everything. Just need to find out when I'll get everything back and get it all put back together. Can't wait for the first Twitch

Well, since you have a 4x100 bolt pattern, as long as the center hub fits, you can use most any 4x100 Honda or Toyota rim. Not to mention any aftermarket rim you'd like. Twitch

I wish, but it'd be a waste to put it in a smashed up BRAT. Its going in my 83 wagon. Should make it fun to drive Beware Honda Ricer boys Yeah, I'm trying to get my motor done by then, so maybe I'll be raising hell in my wagon. Twitch

They already have a twin stick setup writeup on here if you're looking for that. If you want a proper dual action e-brake lever, converting it to pushrod would be a better option than slacked cables. Standard tension on the cables to prevent slacking and make the lever push on the appropriate mechanism to make the desired cable move. Not too terribly complicated to sketch up, but somewhat difficult to put into practice. Twitch

Partially fouled plug finally completely fouled? Broken spark plug wire? Bad ground? Dirty Injectors? Tired gerbil in the engine? Twitch

How about making the meeting place somewhere we should all know? Like the parking lot of the Yokes just down the way from Pull and Save. I'll gladly make my way out there whenever a time works for all of y'all. Hopefully I'll have my cam done the week after next and have my motor all put back together. High compression EA81 baby! Lets see how well it stacks up against the good old fashioned stock motors Twitch

Got fresh heads, but no pix. Wanted to get pix of them scrubbed down, but ran short of time before the shop closed. Still fighting trying to find a looooong pair of needle nose pliers or the special tool to remove the inner piston pin circlip. Also, any hints on how to get that piston pin out? I haven't gotten too far after it yet, but i don't want to damage them and have to get new ones. Its getting along, just trying not to beat my head into the wall to get the case apart. Once that's done it'll all be easy from there. Twitch PS: I'll get a pic of the sheetmetal in the head, its bizarre. I think I have a cali-model car... :-\

If I could drive my BRAT over I would. Well, I might be able to. Its still licensed and insured. Just looks like a rolling car accident... Any specific locales in mind? Twitch

Is it the fuse in the engine bay by the strut tower? If so, that's the FWD (front wheel drive) fuse. It overrides the Duty C solenoid and disengages rear clutch pack, which stops it from transmitting power to the rear wheels. If it stopped your car from shifting, it sounds like you have a bigger problem that needs to be taken care of. Without the fuse in, do the wheels bind when you turn corners? Does it shift hard or delayed? Have you checked the fluid to see if its burnt or low? Twitch

You would be correct. Posted in a thread or two about it. If my estimates are correct, I should be building 120-130 horse on 92 octane. But the real story is torque. Hoping to be in the 150+ range. May need an octane booster to keep it from pinging, may not. Depends on how break in goes.I'll be pushing damn near 11:1 compression. Hope I don't blow up my starter... Twitch PS: I'll post up pics of the heads I get PPS: Has anyone ever had heads where sheetmetal has been cast into the exhaust port?

So here goes the build thread for my little blue 83 wagon. What it looked like after I brought it home/what it kinda looks like now: Since taking the engine out and tearing it down from finding this in the oil pan: Found a nice little crack in the driver's side head (cyl 3 that popped the HG). Too fine for my crappy camera to show, but its about an inch long running from the valve into the piston surface. Time for JY heads! May port and polish, may not. Depends. Anyway, current goal is .030" off the total mating surface. Torque grind Delta Cam EA82 Pistons Weber 32/36 Ordering EA82 SPFI pistons tomorrow and dragging my sorry carcass to the jy to grab some "new" heads. Hope it all goes together as easily as its coming apart.. Twitch

Thank you for the picture So with the valve reliefs, I may be able to maintain a safe .025-.030" gap between the piston and the valves. On another side note, did you have to remove any head studs? And if so, what was the most effective method you found without scarring the studs or stretching any threads? I may just wait until I get to the machine shop to remove the studs safely... Twitch

I've looked at the valve train geometry. This engine won't really be seeing RPM's high enough for valve float, so I'm not too concerned with losing too much there. After talking to Delta Cam, the torque grind will be taking about the same amount of material off, so my valve clearances won't need to change much or even at all with the decking. I'm just wondering if I'll be overdoing it if I take .020" off the block. I should measure the HG to see how much space that adds to the combustion chamber. If it adds enough, I'll go with my original idea and order the SPFI pistons. Out of curiosity and lack of memory at the moment, do SPFI pistons have valve reliefs in the top of the piston? Twitch PS: This is a solid lifter engine

I'm looking at decking my block .020" and my heads .010" for a high compression build, but I only have .023" of clearance between the top of the piston and the headgasket. If I put in EA82 SPFI pistons, and shave off the .020", will I run into issues with hitting the piston on the cylinder head? And I don't want to shave off too much from the head as I don't want to make it so thin that I have warp issues. So, my official question is, what is the height difference between an EA82 SPFI piston and an EA81 NA piston? This is obviously measured from the top of the piston to the pin, as that is the distance I'm concerned with. If the piston height is too much, would it be better to convert it to .015" off both sides or just go with .010" off the block and .020" off the head? The head seems to have a lot more material I could shave off than the block at this point. Twitch