bratman18

I'm almost positive it is hooked up to the yellow green wire that comes out of large connector on the ecu. So I'd think it'd be good. But as I said, it didn't change a thing. And it reads 0 on the code reader. But that's just sitting still.

Ok. I'll have to check it on Monday or Tuesday when I make it back to work on it. Does the neutral switch have to be hooked up? Will it cause any issues if it's not?

I had custom door panels with 6.5" speakers in the doors and then a set of 6x9 pioneer truck riders behind the seats, and then a sub tube between those. Sounded awesome!

The engine will bolt up but you might be better off finding a 5spd transmission from an ea car. It'll be stronger.

We have one bung for the front o2 sensor that we can hook up. But the exhaust shop is 40 minutes away so we slid a muffler on to quiet it down so we could drive it there. So until it runs correctly, we can't get it to the exhaust shop. And none of us really thought those would keep it from revving out. And it idles and runs great up till that point.

There are 2 wires that go to a plug for the neutral switch. I cut the plug off and butt connected them together. I also tried with them disconnected and It didn't change anything. We tried the man as well and that was fine. I looked for any vacuum leaks or lines unplugged and found nothing as well. There are 2 yellow/green wires under the dash, maybe I need to hook to the other one? But again, it throws no codes except for the o2 sensors. And the car has only been driven once up the road, and it was after this started. Really at a loss at what to do. I figured once I got the obdII port working I'd find a code to point me in the right direction.

Changed out the coil and igniter just to rule those out, no change at all. Still only throws the o2 sensor codes. I wouldn't think that would cause limp mode but ????

Nope they both had 3.90 so just swap the 5spd dual range in and you're good to go. The turbos had 3.70. The 4 spd tranny isn't as strong and you'd need a 4 spd drive shaft as well, definitely stick with the 5spd.

And the only other thing not hooked up is the neutral safety switch. We have that hooked to itself.

So I got the vss hooked up. And also got the diagnostic port working now as well. The only codes it's throwing is for both o2 sensors because they aren't plugged in because there is no exhaust system yet. Would that cause it? It still is In limp mode. Revs nice and smooth to 4kish and the bogs out and stumbles.

Yeah its terrible to drive. I took it up the road a bit and it just won't cut it. And if I do keep my foot in the gas, it'll run like crap after unless I blip that throttle a couple times and then it'll come out of it. Fuel pressure is good, and no other obvious issues. Has to be something unhappy with the ecu. I wish I could understand why the obdII port won't communicate.

Usually a couple hundred or so. Yes, from any 85-98 ea82 GO non turbo.

Just swap in in a 5spd dual range transmission and you'll be good to go. It bolts right in with no modification.

Nearly completed with my ej swap into my 90 Loyale. I used a 96 ej22 and harness. Everything was fine and going well until we put a muffler on it and was able to actually rev it up a bit without it being deafening. We now find that it won't rev above 4k. We were told the vss needs to be hooked up and that was probably the issue. So we hooked that up to the yellow/green wire above the clutch pedal in the cruise connector switch. It didn't change anything. Somewhere along the line the obdII port was cut, so we tried wiring in the port last night with no luck. We even had another 96 Legacy to look at to see what wires went where. We hooked the 3 data wires up like they were in that car, and then just hooked the 2 grounds and 1 power wire to a booster pack. It turns the code reader on and recognizes it, but won't communicate with the ecu. So does anyone have any ideas? I had an appointment to go get an actual exhaust made for it today, but had to cancel any it can't really be driven. Thanks in advance.

No kidding. It looked too different to me, but subarus are legos! I know mine works much nicer with the ej pump than the ea pump!

Maybe with a bunch of fabrication. But the EA pump won't easily bolt onto the ej motor.

I used 04 rear struts with 98 rear springs on them. The rear end sat nice and high compared to the front. I've done this on 3 foresters now, and used 98-02 on the rear of one. Mine sat up higher with the combo.

And if you just tack it on each side, it'll be easier to grind the welds off when and if you need to remove it.

I've seen people weld on little tabs, or even a small washer to keep it from pulling through. Not sure why they wouldn't just come with something to keep them from sliding out.

I put 98 springs on my 04 struts and the rear sat up even higher. The spring was compressed into a smaller area because of the higher spring perch. I've done all the reading. I mostly go off of all the cars I've lifted, whether they are mine, or my friends.

No. Take a ride in an Outback and a Forester, or better yet, someone that has done the swap in a car, meaning a Outback strut swap into a Legacy, and a Forester strut swap into a Legacy. Thev one with the Forester strut assemblies will ride slightly stiffer and handle a bit better. I've done this several times now. The only difference between the 98-02 Forester struts and the 03-08, is that the rear on the 98-02 has a lower spring perch, and the 03-08 is higher so a bigger tire can be cleared.

This has been done many times. And yes, 02-07 wrx struts will bolt in as well, that's why I said ANY 02-07 impreza. And obviously you'll need to put smaller tires on so they don't rub, but I'm assuming someone who is lowering a car, has a set of wheels they want to run as well.

Yes it will. Brats, sedans, and wagon all have the same wheel base.

Swap in regular legacy struts. Or even a set from any 02-07 impreza will bolt in as well.

I think that was Splinter. Not positive though.