bratman18

Yellow red wire goes to the right to the ecu, to the left to the main relay, and the pig tail that is closest was labeled but the label is messed up. Anyone know what it's supposed to go to?

I'll upload a pic when I can.

The yellow red wire actually comes from the ecu, and the main relay. It's a pig tail that comes off. It was labeled but unfortunately the label came off.

Found a yellow/red wire coming from the ej ecu that's not connected to anything. Anyone have any idea what that's supposed to go to? Motor, harness, and ecu all from a 96 legacy in case I haven't said that yet.

And the throttle reads out well too.

Got the vac lines all hooked up the way they should be according to the diagram and it didn't change a thing. Still won't rev up.

It definitely frees up a little power. And if you get another oem radiator fan, it'll bolt up beside the current one. I ran with just one on my brat though and never had any issues with it getting too warm.

I've run no carpet in a few of my rigs because of them getting wet and holding moisture. The road noise isn't that bad.

Those are 2 different style wheels. The bottom ones came on early legacy turbos as well as early Outbacks.

You'll want to put a jack under the center of the crossmember. The nuts will come off, but the bolts will stay in place.

Yeah $1000 bucks is outrageous. You can find a better deal.

Those little things are just silencers.

And if power is a concern, a 2.5 block could be slapped in between your heads as well. You only need your heads and intake manifold. To make it work with your car. Doesn't matter what the block is.

Just get any 2.2 block, swap your heads and intake manifold on, and you're good to go.

First year of ea82 was 85 fyi. So any 4wd ea82 non turbo will have rear drums that will fit. 85-94.

I would assume it's happy with the signal since I can watch it with the diagnostic reader while going down the road. I hope so anyway. Won't be able to get back to it till Monday after work unfortunately.

I know I have a canister under the hood, but not entry sure on the rest of that. I'll have to check.

So I now have the vss hooked up correctly. It reads out fine. I also got the neutral switch hooked up. Still does the same thing. We checked timing, fuel pressure, and any other little random thing. The maf voltage is low according to what it should be. We tried another maf from a running car and it was the same. The vacuum read through the map on the diagnostic reader is low as well, but with a gauge hooked to the intake manifold it reads at 20psi where it should. We are at a loss. Are there any wires that if they were hooked up wrong, it would cause this?

If he's charging you $700 to replace the clutch packs, then he is raping you. That's outrageous dealer pricing. If that is definitely the problem, you could just replace the tail stock with one that has good clutches. That's a cheap and even an easy fix.

The rear struts limit tire size. The lower spring perch gets In the way. Of course there's always ways around that. Different wheels, a friend of mine even took a hammer to the spring perches to gain one clearance. Chances are, without much trimming or bashing, there'll be more than the rear spring perches that get in the way of tires that are re too big.

As has been said, 98-08 forester struts will work. And you could even use 16" wheels. And if you use 03-08 forester rear struts you could fit up to a 215 70 16 tire. And why do you want to know where Nipper is? He's still on here. Search his name.

I'd even get a speed signal if the car is stationary?

Ok thank you for dumbing it down a little lol. I wish I knew more about this stuff. I have been much for vehicle wiring and electronics. Thank you again.

Ok. Thank you. Like I said, I'm almost positive the vss is hooked into the correct spot. As for the neutral switch, there are 2 wires on the ej harness and they had a small brown plug on the end.