bratman18

Some people have the opinion that it works great, and some people say it doesn't. Much like most things. It's all personal preference.

There should be lots of documentation on DOHC heads on the 22t. Many people have done it, and it is a huge upgrade in power.

On the top, front side of the motor, behind the alternator and power steering, the engine code is stamped into the block. It will say EJ22 or EJ25. Should be EJ25 unless it was changed out for a 2.2

If we cant figure this out, could I change the harness and intake manifold out for an OBD1 set up and have it work? Are those not as finicky?

Auto would be the way to go for rock crawling anyway.

The newer suspension design really does not like anything over 2". The bushings get tweaked big time and it seriously affects the camber, especially in the rear.

We're going to try swapping the intake manifold out. He has seen this one other time, the swapped the intake manifolds, and it fixed the problem. Obviously it was something on or in the intake that wasn't working right, but it makes it hard when everything tests out ok, and it doesn't throw any codes. But I'm taking a break from it. I'm beyond frustrated because of what I have put into this swap, and the fact that it isn't at all driveable is quite frustrating.

Yeah the outer edge where there's only one bolt hole available for a block. You ideal want grade 8 hardware for those, so if it's cheap stuff, you may want to redo it.

The 2 longest go on the front crossmember. That one goes there, and the smallest goes to the outer edge. Same for both sides.

The Subaru gaskets have been "refined", That's why they are recommended now. Also six star gaskets are top notch for the 2.5 motors too. Don't use Fel Pro for these.

Yeah we thought resetting the ecu would help too, but we have tried it a few times with no good results. And as I said, we even tried my ECU in a known running car, and it powered the car flawlessly. While the second o2 sensor may help it run a bit better, it should not affect it in this way, and keep it in limp mode. And at this time, without being able to drive it to the exhaust shop, there is no where to put the second o2. I guess we could check the fuel pressure regulator, but we did check the fuel pressure and it all checked out. I will definitely take a video of what it's doing the next time I'm there. Thanks guys

Maybe a mile. It doesn't go all that well. Got an idea?

Put a cone filter on it. Then you'll hear the turbo.

Yes. We have checked timing a few times now. Even retimed the drivers cam gear because it could have gone a tooth either way. Still the same. Also already reset the ecu. Undid the battery, and also tried unplugging the ecu. I also plugged my ecu into another daily driven 96 legacy and it works perfectly. So I know it's not the ecu.

It bogs down and just sputters but will continue to run. When you let off the gas, it will run rough but comes out of it. Yes we checked the fuel pressure while running and revving and it is all good. Can't remember exact numbers but they were more than sufficient.

I'll take a video next time I'm there. We have all wires hooked up that need to be. Fuel pump, switched power with ignition, and I know there are a couple others. I can easily grab the sheet when I'm there as well. It does run, it runs well, just won't rev past around 4k rpms. It seems to be in limp mode and we can't figure out why.

Yeah everything came straight out of a car I had for several months. I drove it home, and it always ran awesome when I ran it. We took the motor and harness out, resealed the motor and put new timing belt and stuff on it. Sent the harness out to have it trimmed down. Installed it all and it started right up as soon as the necessary wires were hooked up. But even after checking everything, we can't get it to rev up. And it doesn't throw any codes except for the rear o2 sensor.

It's not the ecu. Not sure I have any other choice but to start over. Too bad I have so much sunk into this now.

I once used really long bolts and drilled all the way through the entire bumper. You couldn't really see the nuts on the bottom, and the mounts for the lights were very rigid.

Guess everyone is as stumped as we are. Even though this came right out of a known running car, and everything worked well, we are going to try swapping the ecu tonight to see if by chance that has an issue. Crossing my fingers.

Anyone have any ideas at all?

Your forester does have the hole for the prop rod. You just remove the prop rod from its normal spot, and move it back to that location.

Ok well I guess that's no causing the issue. All the other wires are hooked up where they should be. So we are completely stumped as to what is causing this issue.

^yup

His number is right in his profile. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/user/15196-the-beast-i-drive/ 509-391-5903 His stuff is awesome quality. Much better built and better to deal with than sjr.