Caramanos2000

I could also use both rear disc assemblies hit me up man. Also looking for the mud flaps that go on the tires, the heads off the dl maybe, preferably the ones with least mileage and the intake manifold would be nice also

You actually need one kit trust me ive done it to a 12 gallon tank. So one of these: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Large-Cycle-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_32.html and at $39 you cant beat it just follow the instructions:banana:

If your tank is rusted you can buy a kit made for motorcycle tanks which will strip all the rust from it and permanently seal the surface. kits run around $50 which is def cheaper than a new tank.

Most pumps off 1980s Nissans will work including the one from a 6 cylinder 1982 Maxima. Thats what I currently have also :banana: BTW mine is SPFI>

Anyone else?

Ok so ive had the 5spd on my EA-82 for a few weeks now and ive noticed a few weird issues. Second and fourst gear sometimes feel like they engage buy as soon as the clutch is released they pop into neutral. 3rd gear seams to grind sometimes (might be me, first manual car ever) and when in 4th gear it makes a whining noise. Bad tranny, needs a flush? etc etc etc... The swap was done by a shop and I have 90 day warranty. They told me they have another tranny they can put in if this one is bad... do I flush it and use some better oil and an additive or....? Also, when slowing down I get a humming noise like a sall airplane lol. Its not too loud and it might be road noise but im not sure, I have 13" all season tires. Now for the brakes: When I apply steady constant preassure I get a noise that sounds like a couple getting dirty on an old spring mattress. I mean it sounds like someone jumping on an old bed do you guys undersatdn what I mean? Also when breaking hard to a full stop my passengers side front brake vibrates and sounds like its grinding bad pads?(It had new pads, then my caliper stuck and I had to drive like 60 miles with it like that) It doesnt happen at higher speeds just when breaking hard and to a full stop.

Use herculiner on their, it looks sweet and if done right if almost indestructible.

The design of an air water separator doesn't seem to be as effective as these units are quite small and doesn't really allow the gasses to cool or slow down much. It is sealed, has a filter and allows the un-burnt fuel vapor in the blow-by that the catch can would hold to be taken back into the intake

Ok guys read about it some on here and came up with this design to build it cheap:banana: more on how to install it later. Theory is crankcase gases enter the bottom and the oil condenses out as it enters a series of baffles, in this case coarse steel wool. Materials: 140 round paintball tube $2 2 of: 1/2" L shaped fittings male threads on one side, slip conector on the other $1.60 4 Steel wool sponges $1.68 6 of 1" screws $0.18 Chicken Wire -Free in my case Spare wire and Silicone/epoxy Begin my marking 2 holes on the outside of the container the size of your male threaded L fittings. One should be about 2" from the bottom and the other about 2" from the top. The bottom will be the input, the top will be the output to the intake. Make them slightly smaller so they can screw into the plastic. You can drill or even melt the plastic, make sure to go in small increments so you dont over bore your hole Next screw your fittings into the plastic and head for your car so you can find the correct orientation for your particular installation. Make sure you san and remove any plastic debris. Dont want any in your combustion chamber lol Drill 3 holes the size of your screws in a sort of tripod orientation about 1/2" above your bottom fitting, do the same at the top fitting except this time drill them below the fitting. The purpose of the screws is to retain a grille of some sort to avoid getting the wool close to the outlets on the consensator. I used chicken wire, I also made a handle for the bottom grille out of spare wire. This way it can be easily removed for cleaning. Put your bottom 3 screws in and place the grille on the top of them like so: Place the 4 coarse steel wool pads on top of the grille (I dont suggest using fine wool as its easier to suck into the engine, just to be safe) Next place your mesh directly onto the steel wool and insert the top 3 screws, this should keep the grille from popping upwards. It should also keep the wool in its place. Thats pretty much it. If you made my mistake and over bored the holes you can add some rtv or some epoxy to the thread of your fittings to make them snug and air tight. These paintball ammunition "pods" are pretty air tight, however I will make a gasket out of hot glue that will be airtight when closed and disposable when opened for cleaning. I will post more pics later of installation and the muck it collects.:banana: Do I paint it to look stock? or do I go crazy and do lime green or something? lol

Read about it on the forums but I still have a few questions and could use some advice.Also another weird idea: I have a small heater core I was thinking of using in the system some how. How about putting it inline after the condensator as to cool the unburnt air and fuel down resulting in better burning? Any ideas/ thoughts? It should be after the condensator to avoid plugging it up. I am unsure of what container to use for it. These are the options I like: Use a 3" wide piece of intake tubing for the body Make it out of 1 1/4" PVC Use electrical conduit insulating box Debating which would be cheapest and most effective Of those options what do you guys think? My other question is slightly more important: How far can I extend hoses to run to the condensator? Is one side of the engine bay to the other too far? Trying to get the most mpgs I can obviously, car is an EA-82. Anyone here ever mounted a ghetto HHO cell to their sooby?

If its gurgling and overheating why are you still driving it, you could toast it driving it HOT all the time

Did a little searching on here and found two methods I liked, de snorking and cutting the airbox. Can I de snork by removing the plastic inner fender wall or must I remove the whole fender? Between desnorking and airbox cutting what would be better suggested? Is it safe to cut the airbox or do I run the risk of hydrolock? EA-82 BTW )

Forgot to say its FWD, no dual range trannies ever came to Puerto Rico I have already gone in the mud with it, hence mud in the engine bay lol. Might keep the gold then for a while. Would this fit on it? http://www.clasificadosonline.com/UDMiscDetail.asp?MiscIdNumber=926755

Its a custom color, like a faded gold/champagne color lol. I call it golden oldies jaja :banana::banana:

Jajaja nope

87' GL Orginally an automatic now a manual Front bumper painted with krylon fusion Ultra Flat black. New fogs too, what do you guys think? What color would look good instead of gold or do I leave it as is? What can I do to it? BTW she is my first car and my daily driver Next to do is window tints, clean engine up, seat covers and maybe paint. Thinking of a 2" lift but she is my daily driver and I dont wana break her lol

I had some light ticking in mine when I first got it. I changed the oil often and seafoamed the engine, seemed to make a world of difference

Maybe rust in your tank, tap the fuel filter on the ground and look for rust. Those "jumper wires" are the fuses, they are called fusible links.

Hmmm id say look at all the axle boots to check their condition. Also make sure none of the connecting rods are bent. Also are all your tires the same? (brand, profile etc.) Next check the brake discs for scoring or an icky brown color. May I also suggest replacing the power steering fluid with the Lucas stop leak kind, worked wonders for me. If those things check out you car may just need alignment Thats what I know from personal experience someone else on here might be able to tell you more.

Slightly behind the battery there is a rectangular black box, remove the cover and this is were the fusible links are located. I think its attached to your coolant overflow reservoir.

Thats what I wana do hence why Im using the 2 headlight leads to power the relay and a desperate lead to my battery.

Actually my first post says what car it is. Anyways Can you tell me what goes to which number on the relay. Currently have: 1. 30 power in from battery with fuse 2. 85 ground 3. 86 to single wire from headlight 4. 87 to driving lights I dont understand from whot you guys said if I take 2 wires from the headlights to the same connector on the relay or 2 separate wires to 2 separate connectors? From what I read in Skips directions, I must remove my current ground wire and replace it with the ground from the headlights. And in my case use red and white to supply power to switch the relay on correct? So at terminal # 85 go to the Red/blue wire and on terminal # 86 to the Red/White correct? BTW Skip thanks for being the most patient person I have ever seen in a forum

Grounded them to the subframe with some large gauge wire. I used a standard relay and used power from the high beams to the relay. However if the car is on so are the lights I put on, I dont get it... I wanted them to only come one when the high beams were on not anytime the car is running. Any ideas were I messed up, should I just add a switch into the drivers compartment. If so can this switch only interrupt the flow of electricity from the headlight power im using?

Ok got them mounted to the bottom of the bumper. Can the ground be place on the bumper frame or must it be somewhere in the car structure?