Txakura

if it's lighting the electrical aspect may be okay, there is a cluster of vacuum lines on a gang fitting (for lack of a better term) on the left fender close to the hood hinge - see if the 4 vacuum lines are secure there the two middle ones come off straight up and then dive towards the fire wall and connect to an actuator on the transmission, the big flat top disc you can just see from above, see that those are attached too I suppose that vacuum diaphragm could go bad after 19 years too isn't there a fuse on the right fender close to the right hood hinge too? big sucker all by itself above the vacuum canister near where the washer line goes into the wiper bay someone else will have to step in, this is about all I got - mine chugged along to the day I pulled it for the d/r so I didn't learn all I could about it

there's no disapointment, I don't care what it is as long as it doesn't leak I'm only going off the word of my favorite local shop - (great guys, have helped me out between paychecks if you know what I mean) I once asked for 2 1/2 from the cat back, when I was getting a new muffler - they were going to change it when they noticed (this is what they told me) that it was already 2 1/4 - there was no point in changing it 1/4" for the cost to benefit, I did get a 2 1/4 inlet and 2 1/4 outlet on the muffler I haven't looked into it to see what it was all about so yeah, you're quite possibly right - I'm not arguing, that's just where I got the idea

do you mean other than his fan clutch?

The ONLY time my system failed it was just the switch in the shifter had gone bad... that was a single range 5 spd (manual). I am not the most savvy guy here by a long shot, but that is an easy and cheap place to look first - although I don't remember what the automatic had - isn't it just a button on the shifter also?

I have no ej, I just want to be able to run one before I install it and thought someone here might have had the same idea, or deals in enough engines they made something for themselves...

no the RS is s/r 5 originally (don't think there is a fwd RS) the pipe is 2 1/4, I had it in the shop for work and was going to replace it all with 2 1/2... until I discovered it was 2 1/4 oem, the double walled crap (heat shields) rides on top of that do I need the engine exhaust (the components directly tied to the engine), y pipe etc from the ej then? and adapt it to the flange of the old mid pipe?

anyone made a stand to run an engine outside the car? it might be useful to run an ej from the bone yard before I get it all the way into my ea car... I'd rather waste some time messing around outside the car rather than find a monster leak or dead cylinder etc etc and have to pull it out for a $5 seal

It occured to me that in all the ej swap stuff people have posted I've never seen mention of what they did for ea/ej exhaust. My (ea82) mid pipe is 2 1/4 (oem) and completely stock, both cats yadda yadda... What exhaust changes, if any, need to be made to host the ej engine in the ea body?

AT last another number, ($400). That helps, although I'm not sure I can do as well... not much to trade etc etc. Yeah, pretty much got all excited by the nice clean fresh engine all ready to go... but there is the (mpfi) wiring, cross-member, ecu... really a little more work than the ej, and for what? less power and reliability? so... I'll let it go and see what I can find elsewhere

we got it, it was a fuel pump relay that (apparently has many functions) was the culprit... the relay was around $300, but I found a re-flashed one from "programa'' for $79 that was very very educational, I am glad my venerable ea82 is still a 'mechanical car' to a large part, and not as crazy with the electronics, relays and such - sure we have a few items but... sort of like an A-10 versus an F-22 both very good at their jobs, just two different ways in going about it

you don't need to pull the reservoir to remove the iac, it's at the bottom front of the throttle body with 4 screws facing forward the error led is on the edge of the ecu, (bolted under the steering column), facing the driver seat, right in the middle of the box

Screw the award, how about some ESL classes?

just use a window shutter like most small trailers have to protect the front window I like the dual ended hatch idea, that'd be cool

me either, I need magic elves to do it for me or the time off to do it, ha ha I have one really bad thing to deal with... one bolt on my transmission cross member (that goes through the torsion bar attach bracket) is wankered up... I'll probably end up grinding it off and drilling it - most likely tapping the original hole, either to the nominal size, or worst case a slight over size - I can handle it, I have the technology and the ability... but it's going to suck, no way around it the big thing is that I need to do so much around that front, left lower control arm, new wheel bearings, left lower ball joint, struts, strut bearing caps and so on... it doesn't make any sense to put the lift in, then take it all out to change the stuff - why do it twice? so I'm stockpiling parts until I have everything to do it but the rear... well, I had some time and wanted desperately to get that going and see what it was going to look like plus it cracks me up to see my car in heat... it's even funnier to see the weird looks I'm getting, I think some people believe I jacked up a fwd car, others just think I'm some really really delusional dude they won't be laughing so hard when I'm the only thing moving this winter

yes Toyota plain jane steelies, body colored mirrors and spoiler are OEM on the RS

just thought I'd add that together all of you beat some sense into my head

ahh yes, I understand what you mean, it really comes into play at about 135 doesn't it? cuz I can - 'zactly right

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101180 krylon works wonders

I love it, that'd be hilarious, mit a d/r no less...

I think I asked you once why your car had it's "butt up in the air" This is just until I get the front up... hence 'in progress'

If I'm always running downhill my mileage will go up, right?

yes the other dif has the stubs, since I didn't care about that car's axles I cut one, beat the dif to the newly open side and then beat the beejeezuz out of the axle piece left on the stub until it popped off actually, I have 3 rivet guns (3x 4x and a 27x), and no air hammers

If I need to, I will shoot you a PM if the above fails (and I lose my temper )

excellent, thank you for the play by play, I will do this

I anti-seize damn near everything, these pricks haven't been off the car since it left Fuji #2 in 1989