Txakura

DOCH!!!

main ground lead to the master switch panel is broken in the door, the driver window motor is using the other window's motor as the ground check in the grommet at the inside of the door where the wire bundle crosses through it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95487 I have seen this three other times, you CAN make a ground lead to bypass the fault until you can do a more permanent repair

lifted it 4", (1990 RS) went for first ride today, some minor issues to work out but the majority is finally done (also changed both struts, front brake pads, oxygen sensor, right hand steering boot, installed sealed roller bearings (ty gd for that idea) , inner and outer axle seals, 'new' knuckles, the left hand control arm, outer sway bar bushings... and probably some other crap I forgot... like the exhaust manifold gaskets and the rear main seal. Schiesse, other than that...)

not cad, seems bare and waaay to shiny to be normal ferric stuff, at first I thought it was just burnishing from the cable rubbing on it but... oh hell I wonder if I should have dumped that water now...

lol, I love Zep's. No, I have this home thing I do with a battery charger and stainless will make chromium 6 if I have it in the solution... that brake lever is awfully shiny...

Is the parking brake lever on the back of the caliper stainless steel? That would be very bad if it is, I can't put that in my tank without making toxic sludge...

I'm the idiot. I had emailed that I was sending it, then sent a ginormous wire mess. There was the info on the box, and on a card inside - but that would have been easy to lose unpacking I suppose. I even labeled some knicked wires so he could catch it easy serves me right for disappearing from the USMB for so long

this kind of cracks me up, I just did this yesterday, same too 1990 Loyale I just took the line loose from the caliper and put the bolt back in it to keep it clean. The line comes back through the hole and you can curly cue it behind the rest of the line and put a baggy over it to keep it from dripping on you. Mark's way makes a ton of sense though, making a slit then moving it aside, then bending it back to take the retainer clip I needed to bleed my brakes anyway

What no one noticed armor all does this? Are you using armor all? It fogs glass nicely as it cooks off over time. Also where do you park? I used to work on planes and the jet fuel exhaust residue would coat my glass inside and out nicely. Made pretty rainbows under the wiper smudges, but also got into the interior.

OK, turnbuckles (like the kind you use for gates tensioning) were 1/4 20 thread, so I got 1/4 20 cap screws, large area washers, lock washers and nuts for locking the screws. I spun out the original eyelet end, stacked washer sandwiches on the new screws and went through the original bushed mounts on the ic flange. I drilled a hole in the tire shelf to slip the reverse threaded hooked end around, and one in the clutch cable bracket. That front rod was some all thread double nutted and connected to a small shelf 90 bracket through an existing mount hole on the ic face, (the holes for those metal lines we don't use). It lets the IC move slightly under vibration, and it's adjustable height was really nice for dialing it in to sit well. The cost was very little. You have to radius the corner of the tire shelf, so it clears the ic y pipe underneath, on the passenger side. Just trim the corner and smooth it out, I went with a 1" radius.

the issue is they are stuck in my phone, no bluetooth, usb port is failing I'll see if I can borrow a real camera...

McCoys plumbing... took the owner out in the lot and showed him the problem, he went to the bin and pulled those out... the hose is walking into the back of O'Reilly's and finding any radiator hose the right diameter... btw, finally figured out how to cut those a little better, I slid a clamp over the hose and used it as a guide for a straight cut, but the clamp also keeps the hose from collapsing while you are cutting it The elbow in question is off an ej22 intake, the flex boot is from the pile o parts from Monstaru, ej205. The 205 boot is upside down, the 22 elbow was cut off the n/a intake and sleeved over the exisiting ea intake hose. Silicone tape was added to gasket the connections under the clamps. The open fittings you see are not ported to the elbow, but rather just a supported T. The re-circ was connected after the pic was taken to a port on the manifold and is currently just venting overboard. Interestingly, it SOUNDS like the wategate isn't dumping now, and I can hear the turbo spooling down. I don't think thats bad, its just venting from the other side now. It all seems to be happy, but at a higher level, there may be a small leak in the ghetto duct work. It idles fine and seems pretty smooth through the rpm with a minor stumble that its always had at part throttle, usually on the way down. still fighting the phone usb port, the weakest link on any phone

funny you should mention that, I took some pics of the mounting with my phone, but now the phone usb port isn't talking to the computer and I can't transfer them, I'll add them if I am able

yes, it's an ej2o5 cooler, I have a scoop, I used turn buckles to make an adjustable 3 point support - that turned out to be very useful leveling it left to right. The front has to tip down for the re-circ valve to clear the hood structure too. It's Monstaru's fault, I blame GD too, for putting bad ideas in my head.

Well, FINALLY got a-round-to-it. I learned some new games along the way, 'find the weakest clamp holding your duct', 'find the leak', (actually two separate games) and 'what is turbo barking'. But, it is 98% happy right now and I'm glad a few of you have indulged me.

ya no kidding, and the interior three piece cargo panels my RX is missing got crushed too... jerks I have never seen a 3 dr coupe in a JY here EVER, nice to know they are smashing them right away for the $75 in metal they can get

This is awesomely good stuff, I have always wondered about the SPFI injector but could find very little on it, some posts were too vague to get any answers (apparently). I'll watch this for any updates you make, great job researching and trying some new ideas - and POSTING it so other folks can see it.

Think I'm good on the latter, left zero wiring forward or through the fire wall, or inside the dash for that matter... only thing left was the gaggle at the driver kick panel.

+1

I had thought they would be spliced into the EA, tempted to dike them off at floor level - but I'll follow it to the end... can't be any worse than pulling that dash and heater core out of the way to chase everything else. I'm overdoing the pull, to have everything I could possibly need, even though I know most of it will be scrapped. A lot easier to sort on the bench after the fact...

ok. last thing to do then, all the other fun has been had guess I could have mentioned '93 Legacy, ej22E, 4eat to be more helpful ty for the quick response, I'll be back on it tomorrow

Pulled wiring for a swap harness, any reason I need to keep the SMJ connector and follow it aft?

Nah, they like me. I buy them tires in an age of budget cut backs.

omg, yeah, just what I need when the Sheriff pulls me over for doing 5 over the speed limit...