Steveman09

He said he tried jumping the compressor wiring to manually ingadge it which should of worked regardless of System Pressure since that bypasses the A/C Pressure Switch. Most likly he lost the clutch unit/sender.

Many people disconnect there A/C during winter months, but they find out in the long run it ruins the A/C System, the A/C system needs to be run from time to time, to keep it operational.

The pistons I ordered are Fordged but are OEM SIZE AND SPEC. Yeah We'll see what happens with the blowoff valve, the guy I'm getting it from has it on his 05' WRX and he hasn't had any problems, if it doesnt work out for me I can allways change it and I'm sure I can get somone else to buy it. I got lots of pictures I'll post for you guys of the progress.

I was referring to the WRX setup's and modern day turbo cars, since all my turbo stuff is comming off a WRX, and they use Stock Recirc Valves on the intercooler. The intercooler I got for $75 didnt have this on it so I needed somthing, and the smoking deal for $180 for a HKS SSQV (reg. $300) was too good to pass up, its allmost new. Plus I love the sound and it helps turbo spool compared to the stock recirc valve that stalls the turbo between shifts. The EA81/82T's did not have any type of bypass or recirc valves since the turbo's were so small.

I was referring to the recirc valve on the stock setups! geeze...

There are cases where the stock bypass valves actually stall the turbo. But anywho It's also cool that I got the HKS so I can scare off the competetion

I like the sound from the HKS blowoff valve its amazing, plus a blow off valve helps between shifts to keep the turbo spooled.

Yeah I just picked up a WRX Intercooler in New Condition for $75, also picked up a HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve for $180 I also got a WRX downpipe for free, I'm in the process of deleting the CAT thats built into the downpipe.

Hey guys, it's been a really long time since I have been on the forums and I'm really impressed with the progress on allot of the rides on here, including the 166AWP with stock turbo@15psi, thats pretty amazing. I've got a little somthing i've been doing myself with my subaru, the turbo decided to blow up on me@30psi then hydrolocked my engine with oil and cracked a piston. So I've been rebuilding the engine from the bottom up myself at work in my spare time. It's comming along real nice, I have lots of pictures that I will post when its all done, I've also got a 2001 WRX TD04 Turbo to replace the weak VF4 so I shouldn't have another turbo issue. The specs will be as follows : OEM SUBARU GASKET KIT OEM SUBARU ROD/MAIN Bearings OEM SUBARU CHROME MOLY RINGS OEM SPEC FORDGED PISTONS (all 4) OEM SUBARU WATER PUMP OEM SUBARU GEN3 OIL PUMP Micropolished Crankshaft Port and Polish Intake and Heads Port Match and Gasket Match all Intake/Exhaust Ports WRX Turbo Downpipe Custom Header Pipe WRX TD04 Turbocharger WRX Intercooler w/Blowoff Valve Custom Silicon Turbo Hoses Heavy Duty Radiator Dual Electric Fan Conversion FULL 2.5" Custom Exhaust The purpose of this project is to build a solid daily driver that has reliability but is still fast enough to play I've allready got the whole bottom end assembled and the short block is done and ready to go, now I'm workin on the top end.

I need a turbo for my 87 GL-10 w/ea82-t motor. I'm rebuilding the whole motor and need a new turbo for it. Unless somone knows somone in the northwest who can rebuild turbo's. Please help. Looking for low milage units.

walla ebay to the rescue : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2470780268&category=33615&sspagename=WDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2471777104&category=33615&sspagename=WDVW

the guy was great, shipping was fast and the product works great! The guy is good in my book. BTW with my ebay expierence its impossible to be have perfect feedback records when selling lots of items since there are allways those stupid people that complain.

I got it off ebay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=42604&item=2466840543&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWN%3AIT

Man this was the best 20 bucks I've ever spent, Installation was very easy, I did a test run on 7psi (stock) everyone was cool, then slowly I went up to 8,9 then 10psi 10 is where I'm leaving it for now until my Intercooler gets here. WOW what a difference, this little suubie is turning into a monster! For kicks I took a spin around the block with 15psi WOW lots and lots of wheel spin Here's the funny part, on 7psi I lost to a 98-00 Honda Prelude by about 1 and 1/2 car legnths, but today on 10psi on the highway I smoked one 3 times with 2 peepz in my car!!!! HAHAH you guys should of seen the look on his face! The fuel cut is pissing me off tho, but I found a way to bypass it FLOOR IT, count to 5, quickly release foot enough to drop the PSI down around 7, then push it back to the floor. REPEAT!!! HAHAHAHA it works. PITA tho. Any solutions to my fuel cut problem at 10psi? I think I have a hotwire MAF, not sure tho, I'll check it out tomarrow.

The cooler Thermistat helps resist detonation (turbo only) and keeps the engine cooler on hot days. Havent had any problems on 40F day's, milage has actually increased a bit. Plus going from 190 to 180 wont shock the ECU like going from a 190 to a 160 (if you can find one)

I think I may have fixed it, at work with it up on the rack I noticed a vacuum line that was near falling off so I pushed it back in good and snug and the idle problem has gone away! I'll see tomarrow morning when its cold.

I have the idle at 900-1000rpm for a few good reasons : Better Cooling (more coolant flow and fan turns faster) since I drive the motor hard the extra cooling helps keep the motor cooler. More power from alternator since I have a 700watt stereo system ;P

I'm at 10psi right now. Manual Boost Controller Removed Exhaust Muffler 180F Thermistat 108 Octane booster Scared a Civic off last night!!!! (HEHEHE)

Yup allready did that right after the trans was put in. Also added some Lubeguard to it.

Here's a list of thing's ive done within the last 1000miles : NGK Spark Plugs (gapped .040) Cap & Rotor Genuine Subaru Fuel Filter Fuel Injection Cleaning 180F Lower Temp Thermistat

What kind of oil pressures do you guys have on your 1.8 Turbo's? Mine is : COLD START AND IDLE AROUND 1500-2000rpm = 80-85psi WARM IDLE@900-1000rpm = 40-45psi HOT IDLE@900-1000rpm = 20-25psi HOT 60MPH (3AT)@2500rpm = 45psi

Hey guys, ever since I got my GL-10 it has had a funky idle. Here's what happens : When COLD, if I start it up the engine shakes for about 5 seconds then streightens right up and idles around 1500-2000rpm until warmed up where it idles at 900-1000rpm on a WARM restart the idle will stay very low for about 15 seconds then slowly go up to its normal 900-1000rpm. It annoyes the hell out of me. What do you guys think it could be? The WARM restart bothers me the most.

I had the EXACT same problem as you when I got my GL-10 Front Diff Locked and Unlocked at times (scary) Then finally it blew up Had to replace tranny since the diff and trans are together, allthough they can be seperated but it wont work out since the gears are meshed together and introducing new gears wont work out It cost me $650 for a new 3AT w/60k on it and $200 for labor from a ASE Tech at my work. Lession you now should learn is to CHECK AND CHANGE YOUR FLUIDS!!! The DIFF/Trans Fluid is allways forgotten about yet damn near the most important. Mine was black

Bingo! Thank you very much Wasnt sure if it had one or not

the older GL 3AT's also had a bullitin like this, its very hard to find in the case of the 3AT but since I work at a Subaru Dealership I had the resources This is what I thought my problem was at first, but when I took the tranny pan off and saw the modified tube allready in place I knew it wasnt the case, in the end it turned out to be the governer for me. There was a Orfice Tube in the valvebody on the 3AT's that was modified and fitted with a CHECK VALVE to also fix the draining of the T/C. I'll check on monday at work and see if I can find anything for you.