Steveman09

I was saying he most likly did a swap since there were no 4.7L 6-cylinders. He said stroked 4.7 not 4.0 stroked to 4.7 so this is what I'm assuming based on his postings.

Most likly the error was made when timing it using the STOCK speedometer we all know how inaccurate the stock speedometers are But I must add he said its a stroked 4.7 which indicates its got the V8 motor stroked which could be a deadly setup I have seen allot of Mopar power flexing in the jeeps so I wouldn't doubt its all entirly possible with the right setup.

ahha! I knew there was a way to find out BTW I'm assuming 25 spline axels are stronger than 23spline ones correct? I would think they would do this since the Turbo's output more power, but as I have learned with subaru's this isnt allways the case

Ok, so I'm in the process of doing a 5-speed D/R Swap into my GL-10 right now and I need to know which is a good clutch to put in it. It's a daily driver with lots of power the EA82-T is fully rebuilt with a few tricks and a TD04 Turbo is coming soon, so I need a clutch that is up to the task. I have found an Exedy Clutch Kit that looks like a good option, but I noticed a few people using XT6 Clutch parts? What is the difference between a XT6 Flywheel/Clutch setup and a EA82-T setup? Is their any advantages of using a XT6 setup on an EA82-T? Thanks

AMEN!

Just got back from the junk yard with lots of parts : Donor Car was a : 88 GL Wagon 5-speed Manual 4WD Dual Range Non-Turbo I got : Rear Drive Shaft Rear Transmission Crossmember/Support Rear Transmission Mounts Transmission Dogbone/Torque Strap Transmission Dogbone/Torque Strap Bellhousing Bracket Complete Shift Linkages, Shifters and Bushings Center Console Trim Complete Pedal Assembly w/switches Clutch Cable I know I still need some 4WD Manual Turbo Front CV Axels, I'm debating to use Junk yard ones or just go buy some new REMANS, what do you guys think? I would like to do this right. What else do I need? While I was there I checked out a bunch of subarus and there was a really nice shape 3.90 Rear Diff Non-LSD There if anyone wants it, its at the Sherwood U-PULL IT right off 99W. Also how do you tell if a transmissions gear ratio for the front diff? Is there a ID TAG somwhere?

It could be the Starter Contacts. Just to be sure tho make sure to check your connections on the starter and solenoid. Usually if you hear a CLICK everytime you try and turn the key to the start position but nothing happens its the solenoid. But if there is no noise and the starter just doesn't engadge until you either tap it with a hammer or play with the key a few times its the contacts. Pretty cheap repair.

I bet the front diff is gone. Are the axel seals leaking, any gear oil in there? Most common problem with these older subaru's is the axel seals go, they dont get fixed and people run them out of gear oil, then the front diff starts to lock up.

Thanks its my baby here's the site so you can check it out : http://legend.purehardware.com I'm turning it into a race car while keeping all interior and accessories 400WHP anyone?

I just recently replaced my TPS on my EA82-T due to a check engine light after about 1/4 throttle. I was also expierencing boost spikes, bad milage and rough idling. When I calibrated my new sensor I got readings completly opposite from what you are saying so either you have a different sensor from a different motor/car that has different specs or your sensor is bad. Do you have a code for the TPS?

Yeah we just got a whole truck load at the dealer I work at (wentworth) and I must say I'm not pleased with them. They are actually 7 seaters according to the sticker, but while checking it out, there is NO WAY 7 people can fit in these things, the 3rd row seat is a JOKE, seriously there is a Asian guy at work that is like 5'0 tall and about 100lbs and he couldn't even fit back there without putting his legs long ways in the seat. The interior in the front cockpit it however roomy, but its all out of proportion if you ask me. The front end is just butt ugly, there is nothing good looking about it. A plus however is the H6 Engine, which is allways a good thing for more power output. Let's just hope subaru made this thing perform better than it looks.

Hey thats cool, I'm over off of Scholls Ferry Road near beaverton. Maybe we can meet up this weekend, I'm also planning on a trip to U-PULL IT to get the console parts, driveshaft, and some other small stuff. Let me know what time you can meet up and I'll go over there, then after that I can goto the Foster UPULLIT since its on the way. Thanks for all the replies guys, very helpful, I'm going to keep my stock cluster since its a Digital Dash in excellent shape and works perfectly and is nice and bright, it doesnt bother me that it has the gear selection lights for the auto still there, I do however have a question, what about the throttle cable (recently replaced) Does the bracket where its bolted to the tranny bellhousing right now on my AUTO the same on the MANUAL or do I need a new bracket and cable as well? Also if I'm understanding right, if the tranny is a D/R 5-speed TURBO the Axle Splines are 25 vs the 23 on the 3AT TURBO, and if the D/R 5-speed is a NON-TURBO then the Axle splines are 23 which are the same as the 3AT TURBO. Is this correct? All tranny's being from 87ish years with 3.70 ratios.

Thanks for the reply! The rear diff I have right now is a 3.70 ratio open diff. my car is a 1987 GL-10 4WD Turbo Auto right now. Do I really need a longer speedo cable? I have the digidash....

From my experience it comes down to the weakest link in the older subaru's : The TRANNY! If its an Automatic like mine is (not for long) Heh then dont expect lower than 16's, if its a manual and you can drive then 15's is definitly possible. When my car was stock before the rebuild I had my boost set a 10psi, no intercooler or anything, using 4WD on the launch brake torqueing my best time was 16.1 in the 1/4mile. This was also dealing with fuel cut So if I had a FCD I could of managed a 16.00 but I doubt 15's. I had my exhaust opened up too when I ran it, the airbox was bottomless as well. If you want some advice, spend your money on engine managment upgrades as this is the weakest link with the EA82-T.

Ok so as you all know I just recently got my GL-10 up and running with the fresh new performance built motor (EA82-T) And it has the 3AT 4WD Single Range Tranny in it with 60k on it. Well I've got over 650miles on the new engine so I've just started really getting on it and putting it through its paces (I couldn't wait any longer) Well I'm just plain sick and tired of the Automatic tranny and I can't live with the lag and horrible gear ratios anymore! The engine has tons of power but it just takes way to long to get to it with the crappy endless gears, the result is the car is only fast from above a 40mph roll. The sloppy and silky smooth 1-2shift just lags so much during a race with a Civic 5-speed from a dead stop I lost 3 car lengths due to the 1-2 shift!!!! It's time to swap this baby to a 5-speed dual range tranny, and I'm ready to do it, I've contacted a guy I do allot of used soobie biz with and he said he's got a 5-speed Manual 4WD Dual Range Tranny (3.70ratio) for $150 with around 60,000miles on it. What I need to know is this : 1. Will my stock Front Axels work? 2. What about the driveshaft 3. Mounts? 4. Anything else I need to know? I allready have the whole pedal assembly, clutch cable, shifter, shift linkage.

Its done with, the older subaru frames are very weak and once you wreck them any more than moderate pulling them back is not wise or safe since the metal is very fragile and weak, not to mention it will never have the same chassis ridgitity as before so handling will suffer. Sorry to hear about your loss, I have tons of understeer due to my air ride, not as fun but safer in the long run.

18hg of vacuum at idle is within specs. The book says there should be 17hg at idle or more. Dont feel bad My Vacuum at idle after the rebuild and ported heads is around 10-11hg When I start it up the idle is aggressive and rough, its gets people's attention, I just yell out "its a *************** having these big race cams" LOL They just look at the car for awhile and smile. HAHA. BTW Running TD04@higher than 7psi I would not recommend with Stock Engine Managment due to the fact that our ECU's are the weakest link with the EA82T's Longevity and Performance. BTW Can you guys post some pics of your TD04 installs? I need ideas since I have the turbo and everything, I just need pictures to see how you guys went about it to get a better idea what I need to buy.

Yeah 87 and 88 are the same engine and managment.

Umm, I'm not sure exactly which car you have but I do know that the older Digidashs were really dim compared to the newer ones and they also used different colors. I noticed a small improvement with interior light brightness adding a bunch of grounds for the chassis under the hood, you might try that, but if you dont have the same dash as me then its not likly to help. Maybe your's is worn out, there is a dimmer switch to the left of the dash that controls the brightness, make sure its all the way up on HIGH, last but no least the switch could be bad. I would have to see a picture of it to tell for sure. Thanks for the comments.

You have to remember that the headgasket causing lower than normal compression and with antifreeze contaminating the air/fuel mixture your not going to have a healthy energetic Turbo Engine. This explains your excessive turbo lag. My EA82-T even tho its all new now has very little turbo lag and takes off just fine, and its an automatic. Even before my rebuild there wasn't much turbo lag. The Main things I have noticed create excessive turbo lag on the EA82-T are : 1. Ignition Timing Incorrect 2. Knock Sensor Failure 3. Exhaust Leaks 4. Intake Leaks 5. Valve Timing Incorrect

I BHG can cause a no start or hard to start condition since the compression is now lower if any. do a compression check on the engine to determine if there is a HG issue. Also oil in the overflow/coolant is a classic sign for a headgasket failure. the SPFI EA82 Motor's are tanks they last forever long as they arent overheated to many times, all subaru motor's are very heat sensitive due to thier design. I would fix it if it were mine since those engine's are known for lasting over 200,000miles.

Just thought I'd give some updates on the motor, I've now got over 550miles on the motor and its running near perfect and plenty strong. I finally got the PCV System Plumb'd up correctly, had to make lots of trips to home depot for hose clamps, fittings, etc. You know the drill I also just found out my Coolant Temp Sensor was way out of range when I OHM'd it out with my meter! This explains my odd drivability when cold and rough idle at times. I replaced it today and all my drivability problems went away along with the rough idle! I do however have another problem I have been trying to figure out since I put the new motor in, I have had low vacuum at idle since day 1. With the engine idling at around 900rpms my vacuum is only 11HG give or take, this also is causing a stumbling idle after the engine is warmed up on initial startup for about 30seconds then clears itself out but the vacuum still remains low. I've searched high and low for vacuum leaks and found none. Then while talking with a few techs today at work it dawned on me what the problem is. When I built the motor I ported the heads and opened the ports up a pretty good ammount, and since the EA82-T is 7.7:1 C/R That coupled with the newly ported heads is causing my poor vacuum at idle Not really a big deal since it still runs great, but just kind of annoying on initial startup for 30seconds until it clears out. It's kind of like when you put a big CAM in a Chevy 350, at idle there is little to no vacuum and it runs like ************, but when you wromp on it, hold on I've got all the bugs worked out and I'm allmost ready to put the TD04 Turbo on, I'm just saving up some more cash to get the custom exhaust fabbed up at this point. I also would like to get some more miles on the engine before I start to push it hard. So far with the stock turbo@7psi I have been able to beat a new Scion TC, Integra GSR w/mods, Ford F150 (LOL), Chevy S10 4.3L V6, and a Civic EX V-TEC w/intake & Exhaust. Not bad for a GL

haha thats funny stuff right there. Nice! So is that car running? Or is the engine and tranny in the back from it? If it's running I would tell him to shove off.

Sounds like your gadge is lying to you. Try hooking up another temp gadge and compare results. You could have some corosion in the wiring to the stock temp gadge somwhere causing false readings. I had this problem with my GL-10 when I first got it running, cleaning the contact of corosion at the temp probe in the engine thermostat housing fixed my problem.

Impressive numbers considering the limited engine managment on these cars and the tiny turbo. I'm impressed. I can't wait to see what I put down with my GL-10. It should be interested since I've completly reworked my ea82 with all new internals and had it blue printed and balanced as well as the heads ported and polished and a 3-angle valve job. I'm going to try and make 3 dyno sessions. One with the Stock Turbo and Stock Boost Then with the TD04 Turbo & TMIC with Stock 7psi Boost And lastly with the TD04 Turbo & TMIC with 12psi Boost I'm not sure if I can run it daily at 12psi with the TD04 since the stock computer just isnt up to the task from what I have been reading, so I plan on trying the megasquirt ecu project.