Steveman09

I'm excited to announce the E-Manage Installation is fully complete! I worked on it for 6-hours today finalizing my wiring, mounting, etc. I even figured out the Ignition control so now I have control over the Ignition Timing as well So far so good, the car is running better than ever, I've learned allot about the E-manage and I'm getting really good at tuning it, its a great system with lots of flexability and is worth every penny IMHO. 1. I have full control over the Fuel System 2. I have full control over the Ignition System (I can pull and add timing) 3. I have Idle Stabilization! (never idled so smooth ever) 4. Datalogging (Priceless) 5. Fuel Cut Elliminated!!!!! WOOHOOOOOOO!!! 6. Greddy 3bar MAP Sensor instead of MAF for Tuning Boost!!! 7. Stock MAF Controls Fuel During Cruising for Maximum Fuel Economy! So Far I'm tuned for 10psi and it pulls all the way to 6000rpm w/no Intercooler without detonating! I can't wait to reinstall my WRX Top Mount Intercooler and push the boost higher. Now that I have the Greddy MAP Sensor to tune with, I have my Stock HOTWIRE MAF Set to control Fuel and Timing ONLY DURING CRUISING for Maximum Fuel Economy, then when I hit the gas and the turbo spools up the MAP Sensor takes over and fuels and times accoring to my 16x16 Map Doesn't get any better! Here's some pictures for you guys to enjoy. Next up is Dyno.

All RX's were 4WD and had EA82's RX Clutches fit all EA82 4WD's vise versa EA82 2WD's are a different animal

I've been reading it : It says in the Additional Injection map whatever you input in % is then added to the normal total injector duty % Example : So I input 50% in the Injection Map and the Normal Injector Duty is 30% then Total Duty = 80% Right now I'm at 85% in the Injection Map and Total Injector Duty is being reported as 60%!?! Not to mention it wouldn't stop knocking until I reached the 80% and Higher Value from 4500-6000rpm

Only problem I saw when checking out that site is the fact that they only sell DISCS I could not find Pressureplates to match the DISCS? Whats the point of upgrading the DISC without a Pressure Plate to match it!? It's like putting a 350 Chevy V8 in an S10 Pickup with a Open Rear Differential!!!

Well I have a strange issue, I'm assuming my injectors are reaching the limit, but when I double checked over my datalogs today it seems that I'm in the 60% Duty Cycle Range but in the emanage software I'm near 85% in my Fuel Maps from 4500rpm to 6000rpm, now I assumed 100% in the Emanage problem is the maximum but I'm not totally sure yet, I'm going to resume tuning this weekend with the new Pressure Sensor, maybe the Emanage program goes to 150%? I think I read about it somwhere in the manual. Anywho I'll know for sure by this weekend. I'd love to go cruisin with ya somtime and hit the back roads but I have allot more tuning to do before that, so I'll let ya know. I can't wait to get into the Ignition map

Tonight I finally solved the RPM Reading Problems, I picked up a HKS RPM Signal Level Converter from Horsepowerfreaks.com for $45.00, this little baby converts the Standard 12V Analog RPM Signal to a 5V Digital Signal for use with the E-Manage and various other aftermarket digital piggybacks. After installing this module all the RPM problems disappeared and finally I could get accurate RPM readings across the board! I set out to make some more pulls on the highway, I did ON-RAMP 3rd Gear Pulls and Freeway 50mph punching in 4th gear, I shut it down at 6000rpm since thats all I'm tuning for at the moment. The first few pulls were way to lean and ping was intense, I slowly but surly increased the pulsewidth on the injectors until the ping stopped then added a few more % just to be on the safe side, finally I could really feel the power, The car has never run stronger! Right after it rained and the road was still wet I put it in 4WD-HI and did some pulls and the thing was just spinning all the tires trying to grip, it was insane! I even managed to easily do a bunch of 1st powerslides without even dumping the clutch or launching it! There is definitly a improvement so far in my tuning and I have much more to do, I haven't even begun to mess with the Timing maps yet. I'am tuned right now at 10psi and I'm starting to see the Injectors limiting me soon, which will need to be taken care of soon. I have the Greddy 3bar Pressure Sensor coming tomarrow, then I can really start turning up the boost and see what this baby can do! More to come!

Centerforce has never made a clutch for the 4WD EA82's the 4WD's use 225mm Disc's (8 7/8) with 24 spline count. Centerforce makes a Centerforce-II for the 2WD EA82's and Older EA81's. I'm asking them for the Dual Friction which offers 90% more holding power over stock, this will solve any EA82-T's Clutch Problems Hands Down.

Yes

Ok guys, I have been emailing Centerforce (http://www.centerforce.com) for the past week or so as to why they make clutches for the 2WD EA82's and older EA81's but not for the 4WD EA82's and they said if I can get enough people to email them about this application they will make one! So here's what we gotta do : EMAIL : larryc@centerforce.com SUBJECT : Subaru GL/RX 4WD Dual Friction Clutch MEASSAGE : Request information and availability on one and dont forget to mention my name : Steve If we can get enough people to email them and he see's the demand we could get the best clutch option ever! EA82 4WD's and Turbo's could REALLY benifit from this upgrade big time. GOOD LUCK! Here's my EMAIL Communication with Centerforce : EMAIL #1 Sent to Centerfoce: -----Original Message----- From: Steveman09 [mailto:steveman09@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 8:51 PM To: Larry Clark Subject: dual friction clutch Hey, I would like to know why you guys only list a clutch for the EA82 Subaru's in 2WD Configuration with a 200mm disc?!?!? This is the most unpopular model and underpowered at that. Why dont you make a clutch for the 4WD EA82 Turbo's with the 225mm Disc that make lots of power and have a huge following? There are TONS of people looking for a performance clutch for this application, see for yourself : www.ultimatesubaru.com Goto the forums under the older generation and search for "Performance Clutch" I assure you if you guys made one you wouldn't be disappointed. Steve Hamann Old School Subaru Guru REPLY FROM CENTERFORCE: Steve, We do not carry anything for the RX, you would be the first call I've had on this application in 10 years. Which is probably the reason we do not carry it, the ole SUPPLY AND DEMAND. I will ask our Research and Development dept. to look at it. Best Regards, LARRY CLARK Senior Account Representative Sales - Customer Service - Catalogs CENTERFORCE PERFORMANCE CLUTCHES Division of Midway Industries Bus. 928/771-8422 ext. 30 Fax. 928/771-8322 larryc@centerforce.com MY REPLY TO THE ABOVE EMAIL : -----Original Message----- From: Steveman09 [mailto:steveman09@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2005 4:21 PM To: Larry Clark Subject: dual friction clutch If you need DEMAND let me know and I can direct over 50 people to email you. Let me know. Steve LAST REPLY FROM CENTERFORCE: SEND THEM........................................... Send with Subject being your application. LARRY CLARK Senior Account Representative Sales - Customer Service - Catalogs CENTERFORCE PERFORMANCE CLUTCHES Division of Midway Industries Bus. 928/771-8422 ext. 30 Fax. 928/771-8322 larryc@centerforce.com

I Dont mean to sound rude, but lets try and keep this thread related to E-Manage so it doesnt get full of useless offtopic posts and out of hand. Thanks

The Emanage Ultimate can delete the MAF and its a piggyback. The E-Manage Blue which is what I'm using can let you switch MAF's for bigger ones and whatnot, with the MAP Sensor 3bar from Greddy you basically ignore the MAF and go off of that. The MAF stays in the mix for idle and thats it.

Tonight I got to really tinker around with my laptop and made lots of pulls datalogging all the engine's vitals with the emanage support tool, I have run into a few problems. 1. I'm unable to obtain a stable RPM signal, after checking everything I found out these old Subaru's use a 12v Analog signal vs. a 5v Digital Signal which is needed. I just ordered the Greddy RPM Signal Extractor #2 which will solve this problem. 2. I'm unable to control Ignition Timing yet, whenever I wire in the e-manage it wont start, so I need to figure out the Crank Angle Sensor dynamics to get this working. I did manage to make some pulls and even tho my RPM reference was jumping all over the place I could definitly feel a tremendous gain in power with one of my maps!!! The thing pulled so hard it broke the front tires loose in 4WD-HI!!! Then when the RPM signal jumped up to 16000rpm it started knocking/pinging and the fun was over Boost/Fuel Cut is offically gone since the E-Manage has a Boost Cut built in, simply input the MAF Clamp Voltage (for 87+ EA82 Hotwire Subarus put 5.00v) Since This is as high as any aftermarket MAF ECU can read and since Fuel Cut is at 5.8-5.9v this works perfectly. Then I went into the Additional Injection MAP and enrichened the Mixture from there since your maxing the stock MAF Signal out. I also ordered the Greddy Pressure Sensor (3bar Map Sensor) To add to the system so I can really dial in fuel trims under BOOST. I should have the rest of the stuff this weekend and I'll begin tuning again. More to come! Stay Tuned

I'm making lots of progress and I will begin tuning on Monday once I get some time, I think I have the Crank Angle Figured out now, I'll keep everyone posted.

Yeah I ditched my S-AFC-II Project after I found this out, whenever I got on boost around 10psi it went super lean and engine went PIIING PIIING BAD! No thanks. I didn't spend $3k on my engine to blow it up so easy.

This thread is now dead since I abandoned the S-AFC II I've started a new thread dedicated to the emanage install here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45572

No you can't, I've learned allot doing my E-Manage install and the 87 Hotwire MAF is NOT a standard 0-5V MAF its actually a 0-10V system, therefore if you switch to a Standard 0-5V MAF it will run really lean around 3500rpm and up (ive tried it) Only solution is to use the E-Manage with a Pressure Sensor or a Megasquirt and Elliminate it.

I got mine from JEGS.com and its for a CRX, fits pretty good if you ask me.

LOL Good POint

Easiest and most effective option is to use a STOCK WRX Top Mount Intercooler and cut a hole in the hood for air. Custom piping must be made for the turbo to intercooler plumbing.

I'm not trying to, I just need them to help me out with my question above since no one has put an emanage on an EA82 yet, I need to know which Crank Angle Sensor wire to tap into for Timing.

Thats very good news, 86 Fuel Cut is cake

No megasquirters to chime in?

Wont do you any good on a 87+ hotwire car, fuel cut is the problem.

Depending on which car you have anything over 9psi will activate the HotWire MAF Fuel Cut, the only way around this problem is a Fuel Cut Defender with a 5th Injector or a Standalone or Piggyback ECU Upgrade. If your car is pre 87 its not so hard.

Ok I'm gonna start this thread up and keep my progress in this thread for future people who wanna try this System to reference to, so as to save many headaches that I'm going and will be going through. Ok I got the E-Manage installed pretty much tonight, I ran into a few problems along the way. Ok here's what I found out so far : Everything was pretty easy to wire up with the exception of a few wires, I wired the Injector Harness to all the Fuel Injector wires at the ECU, I then CUT the MAF Signal Wire to the ECU and Wired the E-Manage in between. The TPS Signal Wire and RPM Signal Wire were also tapped into the E-Manage, I used T-Taps for the Power and Ground since they must use the ECU's Wires and I didn't want to cut the ECU wires anymore than needed. Rotary Switch Settings = 2,0,0 (this is what I found so far, that enables it to run) JP1-JP4 = 1,2 JP5-JP7 = OFF So far the car runs, but it's running Super Lean right now so I need to work on tuning it. After I get everything figured out and complete I'll post pics and make some ECU Pinout Diagrams with exactly which wires to wire where and such for future people to make it all easy, hell I might even make a DIY