Steveman09

Then how do you explain when I put some Nissan 185CC Injectors in that I had to add tons of fuel to the maps to make it run?

The stock EA82-T Injectors are 210cc I swapped some 185cc Nissan 200SX injectors in for awhile and I had to add tons of fuel in the maps just to make the engine run properly and even on the top end it was starving. The Ea82T's are hungry engines when it comes to fuel. Basically all Flat Engines require more fuel that V's or Inline's due to combustion effeciency and physics.

Well since will likes to play games with everyone instead of help, which I think sucks and doesnt do anyone any good. Here's what I have done : Here are combinations that I have found to solve fueling issues for modified EA82's that are real and tested : Fuel Injectors that FIT DIRECTLY INTO THE STOCK EA82 MPFI SETUP : 80's Jaguar XJ6 Early 80's Nissan 280z and 300z Non Turbo and Turbo (turbo are 270-300cc) Early Nissan 200SXs's, these are not suitable for EA82T's tho, they are only 185CC Late 70's early 80's Mercades Benz 460SEL Injectors fit also. I have actually found a company in Lakewood California that does Performance 280Z Turbo Injectors that are 450cc which is what I bought, soon as I find out how much they have I will let you all know where they are. 450cc is more than enough for any EA82T setup and will net well over 250whp if tuned properly. Best option I found is to find a Early 1980's 280Z Turbo at the wrecking yard and take those, they are 270-300cc and $4/each at a U-Pullit, this will give you a nice upgrade from the Stock 210cc injectors.

No they dont have this type of switch. I remember allot of late model mustangs with this problem, funny stuff.

Well I would definitly look into your PCV Setup then. Any reason why you changed it? Subaru redesigned the PCV System on the EA82-T's to fix issues like this and it works very well so long as the engine doesn't have excessive blowby or a bad PCV Valve.

Sounds like your having the same problem as all of the SPFI EA82's. There was a Subaru TSB on this issue, the PCV System was revised to fix this issue on SPFI EA82's, since during left hand cornering it suck in large ammounts of Oil from the Crankcase into the intake. This sounds like your problem, check out your PCV Valve, Hose Routing, etc.

You guys have obviously ignored my post about this! READ MY POST, IVE BEEN USING IT FOR AWHILE NOW WITH NO BAD EFFECTS IN SEVERAL CARS.

I have been using Acetone now for a few months in all my cars and my friends cars with positive results, a buddy has a 94 S10 4.3L V6 that has allways pinged unless using super, now on Regular with 3 oz/acetone per 10 gallons his ping is gone, and he says it runs much stronger. My Subaru didnt gain performance but detonation is much harder to do now, I have actually been able to advance my timing in my EMS with ACETONE in the tank unlike before with regular 92 octane. Milage has gone up alittle. The best results I have seen have been on my 1990 Acura Legend with a fair ammount of mods, it runs very strong with ACETONE in the tank. ACETONE has been used for years in cars, it modifies the surface tension of gasoline and improves combustion by as much as 40%! This results in less emissions, longer oil change intervals and better effiecency. I also found a website where a guy soaked various fuel system parts for over a year with no negative effects. Also ACETONE only reacts with cheaper plastics, most all of the materials in the fuel system of modern fuel injection are high quality so this is not a problem. The trick to ACETONE is to use the correct ratio. 3oz/10gallons of gas. Also Oregon uses Ethyonal in the winter time in the gas so ACETONE wont really help in the winter since Eth and ACETONE pretty much cancel each other out. I still do notice slight better resistance to detonation even with ETH in the winter gas here but not as much as when it was summer time.

Your transmission differential must match the rear diff ratio, you cannot mix different ratios. The rear diff in your non-turbo is 3.90 and the turbo's use 3.70 so it wont work unless you swap the tranny with a turbo tranny.

Yeah I have my timing pulled way back on the top end just to be safe, I allways use 92 octane in the car. Now that the new ECU is in I gotta get a wideband on it to see if its fixed, but I can allready tell it is.

Well I finally got down to the DYNO to make some pulls to help figure out whats going on with my car, plus Rallitek was having a DYNO day and it was $25 for 3/pulls+wideband so I couldn't pass it up. I had a blast and there were some nice cars that showed up. I'm pretty happy with my results considering how ************ty my AFR's were, the Torque is amazing! I'm putting out more Torque than my V6 Acura Legend did when I dyno'd it!!!! As you can see my AFR's were all over the place and on the 2nd pull my no power above 4k problem showed its ugly face. After the Dyno Session I went down to SubaruStyle's house and he was kind enough to lend me a spare ECU he had lying around for me to try, I just got it installed and the car allready feels much better and hasn't hit the 4k rpm stumble yet!!! So I hope this fixes it as I have exhausting lots of things. I also had to completly REMAP my TUNE in the E-manage and my reading are much more resonable now So I'm pretty sure its finally fixed, I'm going to get back on the dyno soon to make some more pulls and do some more tuning. So far so good!!!! Dyno Setup was : Greddy E-Manage Engine Managment 2.25inch Stainless Exhaust from the CAT back Stock Downpipe and Header Stock Turbocharger @ 10psi via MBC Stock Intake No Intercooler

Update: Centerforce emailed me this today : Steve, I have had 7 calls including yours, thought you would like to know, no where near the 50 you thought we would get. I can submit it with the 7 calls of interest now if you like, let me know................................. Thanks, LARRY CLARK Senior Account Representative Sales - Customer Service - Catalogs CENTERFORCE PERFORMANCE CLUTCHES Division of Midway Industries Bus. 928/771-8422 ext. 30 Fax. 928/771-8322 larryc@centerforce.com We need more people to call them! CALL THEM AGAIN IF YOU ALLREADY WITH A DIFFERENT NAME, THEY WANT CALLS.

That is NOT how any factory EA82-T car came, it has been done by a 3rd party along the way. There is no harm in doing that as the wastegate is set at 7psi, so running a line directly from the wastegate to the outlet will still only let the turbo spool up to 7psi under all conditions. The reason people are doing this is because the stock boost controllers go bad over time and this is a cheap fix. The bad thing is, at higher altitudes the boost wont be raised to compensate so you will LOOSE HP at high elevations, this doesnt hurt the motor at all just performance. Those lines were for Boost control under these conditions.

ok after banging my head against a wall for the past few days trying to figure this out I finally figured it out today Just for kicks I went ahead and disconnected the Coolant Temp Sensor (ECU one) And went for a drive, datalogged the run, and guess what : It pulled like there was no tomarrow, it was such a good feeling to finally figure it out. I then ran some test on the sensor, I was shocked since I just replaced it when I rebuilt the engine and its OEM. Here's the results : When fully warmed up its reading 230ohms on the sensor itself. Then with the harness connected and engine idling backprobing the sensor produces .545volts. This doesnt seem right to me, does anyone have the specs on the sensor? I read a post where Garner said with engine cold backprobing should product around 4volts or so, then when warm should be around 1volt. The only Specs I could find were : 68F = 2-3kohms 122F = 700-1000ohms but I'm not sure if those are correct since I pulled them off of ALLDATA which somtimes mixes up Turbo/SPFI cars info.

I'm starting to wounder the same, the TPS was replaced when I did the engine with an OEM one and I have since then calibrated and rechecked it a few times, even recently. I did however had issues with the TPS Valve not being very consistant in the emanage program. At idle after a few runs it would show 2-3% bouncing back and forth, then I would have to recalibrate it in the emanage program for it to return to normal, then it would do the same again. I'm also going to try regrounding the ECU and see if that helps. Another thing I have been thinking about is the Coolant Temp Sensor, even tho it too has been replaced when I built the engine, I wounder if the terminals on the harness are corroded and causing a false reading. If its not reading 140F or higher I wounder if the top end Fueling is effected?

Funds are limited right now, the lattest will be comming in a few days, I ordered a REAL Wideband Kit for the car Tuning now just got much easier I will keep you all posted once I figure out some grimlins that just came up, I have to fix them before the TD04, 450cc injectors, and 265lph fuel pump can go in

The timing is being pulled back because I'm telling it to. As boost and rpm go up timing must come down on a turbo car to maintaine no detonation. I have it set to pull back from 8deg to 11deg at redline.

Yes I have in that pic I selected a spot where the injectors are falling off, shows rpm it happened and everything.

Well I've just had a problem pop up out of nowhere, what happens is, if I got WOT as soon as I reach the 4000rpm mark and above I have little to no more power, I tried a different coil thinking this was the case but it didn't change anything. I've also noticed bad COLD Drivability, this problem popped up out of nowhere and as you all may know I have the E-Manage setup on it, everything was fine up until one day it just went wack, I've tripple checked my maps and settings, everything is fine, I haven't modifyed any settings to make this happen. I put a Fuel Pressure Gadge on the car and drove it around and watched the readings as follows : IDLE 32PSI SOLID WOT 65PSI SOLID When I hit the loss of power area the Fuel Pressure did not change at all. I still thought it was fuel related so I went ahead and did some Datalogging with the E-Manage to see how things were going, and I was shocked as to my findings. here's a pic of a run : As you can see right when my loss of power happens between 4000-5000rpm the Injectors go from 65% duty cycle to 5%?!?! This confirms my suspecions about Fuel Starvation. Now I need your guys help, I'm not sure whats causing this, possibly bad injector, injector resistor pack, STOCK ECU Injector Driver bad? I have elliminated fuel cut completly by claming the MAF to 5.00volts (FC happens at 5.2v) The other thing that gets me is the COLD Drivability, it surges and bucks like crazy and doesn't want to go. The way I have the E-Manage setup is for Normal Crusing (no boost) The Factory Hotwire MAF still controls things to maintaine stock mixtures for the best milage and drivability, but when I hit boost the 3bar Greddy Map Sensor takes over and I tune from there for the midrange and topend. This is why I think there is somthing wrong with the Fuel Injection system on the car. I've allways had light surging during cruising even before I put the E-Manage on, so I'm woundering if somthing finally broke. Any help would be appreciated, because I'm stumped.

Ttt

Ok I have had this problem for a long time even before the E-Manage Project. What happens is, if its cold and I start it up, it runs normal, but if I dont let it fully warm up before getting into the boost and taking off, after I let off it will mis-fire and die, then when trying to restart it has NO COMPRESSION (fuel flooded) I have to hold the throttle to the floor and crank on it for about 30seconds or so then it finally will fire back up and clear out. What gives? Anyone else had this problem? I usually allways let it warm up but when I'm in a hurry and need to pull out in traffic when its cold, its annoying and I know the MPFI should figure out that it doesnt need all the fuel its dumping to keep it running. If I dont get into the boost its fine and has no problems.

I ditched my EGR valve as well to find better drivability and milage!

YES IT CAN. It also has a built in SUB INJECTOR controller allowing full control over to AUX Injectors that you can place anwhere in the intake path

Great idea!

I didnt want the installation to be visable, I like to keep stuff steath, It's simple to hookup the laptop and tune, I ran a Regular USB Extension cable from the emanage to the passenger floor and I hide it under the floor mat until I want to tune. Here's a video of a little sprint shifting at 5500rpm letting off at 64mph, I didnt wanna go faster with me filming and driving at the same time http://www.purehardware.com/subaru/videos/31to64mph_pull.mov Enjoy.