Steveman09

Here's the complete list of mods as of today : 89' EA82 Turbo Engine Block (Rehoned) New OEM Gaskets and Seals New OEM Oil Pump (Type New OEM Water Pump New OEM Timing Belts New OEM Tensioners New OEM Turbo Pistons (7.7:1 c/r) New NPR Piston Rings New Sealed Power Crankshaft Main Bearings New Gen3 Cylinder Heads New High RPM Valve Springs NGK Spark Plugs & Wires 3-angle Valve Job Engine Internals Blue-Printed and Balanced New Delta 272 Stage3 Camshafts Deleted EGR MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil TD04-13G Turbo Charger (2005 WRX) WRX Turbo Downpipe 2.25" Stainless Exhaust WRX Top Mount Intercooler & Custom Plumbing Modified Turbo Up-Pipe w/Welded TD04 Flange HKS SSQV Blowoff Valve Perrin Boost Controller (Set at 12psi) Heavy Duty 2-row Radiator Dual Electric Fan Conversion 180F Thermostat 5-speed D/R Tranny Swap (3.90 final drive) XT6 Clutch Kit Mcculloch 6000k HID Headlight Conversion (9004) Greddy E-Manage Ultimate Engine Managment System (fuel,spark,boost,WB02,MAP,datalogger) Mass Air Flow to MAP Conversion Autometer Vacuum/Boost, Mech. Oil Press. Gadges

Well as many of you allready know, recently I had trouble with my boost controller overboosting me to 30psi during a race with a 2003 Mustang Cobra. (I WON, even before it overboosted) Ended up blowing the passenger side headgasket and toasting Cylinder #1's Piston Rings. The rings didn't supprise me since back when I first built this engine it was run out of oil and Cylinder's 1 and 3 had deep scoring and there was a question as to how long it would last, well I put about 20,000miles on it of hard driving/racing so I guess it lasted a long time given the groves in the cylinders. This time I set off to do it right and I went any got a 89' Turbo Block. I transferred my Crankshaft, Rods, Pistons, Gen3 Heads over to the new block since I had my internals balanced allready. I put brand new Main Bearings and I used NPR Piston Rings this time instead of Subaru Rings as I was told they are better. Honed out all the cylinders to put a nice new cross-hatch pattern in the liners for the new rings and put it all back together. I also finally got the Valve Lifter Clearances right for the Delta 272 Cams!!!! Everything is back to normal now and she is running stronger than before! I have a video comming soon. PICS will be posted tonight I'm at 12psi right now with the TD04, but 15psi will be comming soon! PICS:

I would rec. the HKS converter, but try this : Run a wire from the NEGATIVE Low Voltage terminal on the Ignition Coil to the RPM Signal for the AEM, this works for the SAFC's so it might work for you.

yes....LOL I'm just having a hard time taking a cutter to a MINT Paint job LOL

It's been awhile but I've got it all done and have been driving it for the last few weeks. I got the TD04-13g Turbo installed onto my modified up-pipe, used a Stock WRX Downpipe and had to slightly clearance the lower crossmember to get it not to rub while going down the road, I got the Delta 272 cams and I love the extended power band I got with them, pulls hard from 3k to 7k The only thing that sucks about the 272 cams is the lifter clearance changes allot, and finding the right shim to make up the difference is a PITA!!!!!!! The shims they sent me didnt work and ended up cracking about a few miles and the ticking would get worse as they would flatten, so I used a combination of DIMES and some other SS Flat Washers that were thicker, the result is much quieter valve noise but still ticks a bit, but not nearly as bad as before, so I'm going to live with it for now since I have yanked the CAM Cases 5 times allready to adjust them!!!!! All in all the car is a beast and I have yet to loose to anyone! So far I'm running 10psi of boost and the thing just begs for more, I will keep everyone updated and hopefully I will be at WCSS 8! Enjoy Kill List so Far : Nissan 350Z 6-speed (5 cars from a 30mph roll) Subaru WRX 5-speed w/I/H/E/16psi (3 cars from a 45mph roll) 00' Honda Civic SI 5-speed w/I/H/E (im sure you can guess LOL) 80's Subaru GL Turbo Wagon (not even close, hehe)

stock EA82 Flywheel that was resurfaced a year ago.

Well I couldn't locate one in time so I just said screw it and bolted it all together. So far so good, works great and I love the way it grabs over the stock ea82 clutch, muuuch better

I did the swap in my 87 GL10 and if you dont have cruise no ECU mods needed, if you do have CRUISE and WANT it to work you have to jump the Identification Pin like I did to enable cruise after the swap.

Update: Well the last few days have been very frustrating as I have been learning about the Delta 272 cams and valve clearances and what not. So I tried #10 flat stainless washers under all the lifters to fix the tick, and well it fixed the tick just fine, but then I had Cylinders 2 & 4 with no compression Tore it back apart and tried a little thinner washer under the lifters for 2 & 4, put it all back together and fired it up, still had a miss on 2, and 4!!!!!! Better but still there! Tore it back apart again and ditched the washers and put the lifters back in normally, fired it back up and it ticks a little, oh well at least it runs for now, So now I gotta goto a machine shop and have some CUSTOM shims made, but heres the problem, there are NO valve lifter to cam love clearance specs anywhere since the lifters are not adjustable. So now I need to find a motor with STOCK Valvetrain and STOCK CAMS, and measure the clearances then get some custom shims made for cylinders 2 and 4, then everything will be ok. Cylinders 1, and 3 are perfect with #10 shims, so at least thats out of the way. Took it for a road test today and man this thing has some balls until it hits 4k then falls on its face (full rich) Its running WAY too rich so I need to tune it, but other than that im loving it so far. Heres some pictures of the plumbing that was a total PITA to do : Enjoy : Little rich! even with a CAT

Dont worry I will have plenty of videos to come once I finish up the little stuff tonight, and fix the lifters.

The cams I went with have a MUCH Longer Duration and More Lift. I'm pretty impressed with the idle quality and I even had about 20InHG Vacuum at idle! You can definitly tell its cammed if you listen for the lumpyness

I'm sorry if I misunderstood the way you were explaining your fix, I guess the wording is confusing. Here's some info on my car if you wanna see it : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59047

Here's what happens : When they regrind the cam, they do not loose lift or duration, they increase both, BUT when they grind the lobes they grind down the lobe center (area where no valve is opening) This is why the lifters need to be SHIMMED back up to take up this space, and the CLICK sound is when the lifter hits that spot and the LIFT, the difference is the sound that you hear. I called DELTA and they said YES they need to be shimmed. This is for EA82-T and its the 272 Grind In the future ANYONE using DELTA Cams any Grind, before you RTV the Cam Cases back on, just put the cases on dry and torque em down to specs and make sure the Lifters COMPRESS .030', this will tell you if they need to be shimmed or not, then after you figure that out and get it back into specs, RTV The Cases together and your done.

You need quicktime player to view it : http://www.quicktime.com

Well I fired it up, and yeap im going to need shims under the lifters, there clattering pretty good, so its back into the motor I go Any future people looking for 272 cams, you will need #10 Stainless Steel Flat Washers that can be had at the local hardware store. Insert them UNDER the Lifters in there bores to bring the lifters UP and take up the extra clearance. Make sure once the cam towers are bolted on the lifters compress .030' and this will fix this problem.

I wouldn't do that drill mod suggested above, your going to be pulling in UNFILTERED air and get lots of dirt and grime into the engine which is a bad thing. Goto the local junk yard and grab another AUX Valve, takes 5 min to change and usually runs $5-10

I got it running! WOOHOO!! Man its a beast and the throttle response is kick rump roast. Here's a short clip of the first startup: http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo10/d7/ef/c8c6d9837639.3gp?_rh=ce8s542d05in6molc35pn0xlr&foneblog=1149833142771 You can hear some valve noise, this is because Delta neglected to tell me it MIGHT need the lifters shimmed for the 272 cams, well now I gotta tear into the lifters tomarrow and fix that, but other than that it runs like a champ, I'm going to finish up some wiring and then make some nice videos of the first test drive!

I got the 272 Cams from Delta installed, but now ive heard they need shims under the lifters? I called Delta and they said YES they need to be shimmed sometimes under the lifter since they grind the center of the lobe down. They said after the cam towers are tight the lifter should compress .030" He said some need em some dont. Nice of them not to tell me this before I installed them, im hoping it doesnt need em when I fire it up. Anyone else have info on this?

To answer your question, YES it should be OPEN when cold in order for the idle to stay around 1500rpm during warm up. Once the engine is WARMED up it should CLOSE.

I would say you have the wrong bearings for sure, I rebuilt my EA82-T with all OEM Internals and STD Bearings. The new ones measured slightly THICKER than the 103,000mile ones I replaced, as they should. I would check into some other brands of aftermarket bearings for your application. Also you need to plastagadge the old bearings to find out if you need oversized bearings or not. If you skip this step there is a chance it will knock. Good luck.

So these heads must be FED, instead of CAL? Cause I know my car is CAL. I wounder how my nox levels will be without it for emissions?

Hey guys, I noticed when I switched over to the Gen3 Heads there is NO EGR Tube Port on the exhaust of the left head! Is this how gen3's are? And if so How is the Gen3 Head EGR System different from the Gen2??!?! I'm at a loss right now.

Update: Engine is in the car!!!!! Just got it all dropped in tonight, xt6 clutch is installed, delta 272 cams, turbo, and timing belts! Just need to install the intake manifold and plumb the intercooler! Can't wait to fire it up this weekend and see how she does. I'm not worried about the head gaskets anymore, I talked to several Subaru Senior Tech's today at work and showed them that pic of Tex's failure and they both agreed it wasnt the gaskets fault and was most likly caused by Pre-Ignition/Detonation from High Boost not managed properly. So I threw it together and said screw it We'll see what happens. Stay tuned!

How many miles were you getting out of the gaskets, im curious to know, from the looks of that picture of your failure you had some serious detonation. Every gasket ive seen with the firering bent like that was from detonation/preignition problems, and pretty serious ones at that. Now you've got me worried.

Update: The cams from delta came in today!!! I installed them and got the heads all done with the valve covers and cam towers on All I have left to do now is plumb the turbo and I figured all that out and also found a local place that has everything I need, if everything keeps going smooth I will have it on the road by this weekend! Stay tuned.