Steveman09

my Ea82-T puts out more than 200hp and it didnt cost me $15000. Ive been talking to ramengines for the past week and they do offer ea82 stuff. Here's what I found : EA82-T Wiseco Forged Racing Pistons 8.5:1 with Pins and locks $450-500 (oversizes in stock, STD 5 weeks out) Custom EA82-T Graphite & Teplyon Head Gaskets $50/set (said to hold more than stock) The guy was cool and knows his stuff, I think ramengines.com does killer work but that $15k ea81 is majorly overpriced imho.

Well its time for yet again another rebuild and upgrade!!! woohoo : Brand New SOA Shortblock Assembly : When it comes to power I'm never happy LOL! New list of goodies to go in this weekend : IHI VF-39 Turbo (STI) HKS Catless 3-inch Downpipe SOA Brand New Shortblock Assembly This should give me a nice boost in power I can't wait to feel her pull Stay tuned.

I've run several high to mid 14 second 1/4miles at P.I.R. at only 10psi of boost shifting at 5500rpm due to the issue in this thread (finally makes sense) So now that she's able to go up to 7000rpm+ I'm ready to hit the track again.

ahh success!!!!! Went to u-pull it and got another ECM and installed it, turned the key and vroom fired right up, took it on a test drive with PLENTY of LEFT turns, RUNS PERERFECT NOW!!!! It's even stronger than before, makes me wounder how long those wires were causing issues, because all of my cruise surging is gone

I really wish I could figure out how to transfer the VHS Video Footage I have of it in action to my PC so I could upload it for you guys to watch, when I get the car back and running around Friday I will see if I can borrow my buddy's Digital Video Camera and make a teaser video for you guys. Well im off to U-pull it again tomarrow, wish me luck!

Here's my setup Completly rebuild EA82T NPR Chrome Piston Rings NPR Main Bearings SOA Rod Bearings All Internals Blueprinted and Balanced Gen3 Turbo Heads w/Custom Porting and 3-angle Valve Job High RPM Dual Valve Springs and Retainers Delta 272 grind Camshafts 280ZX Turbo Injectors Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator MSD Blaster-II Ignition NGK-R Plugs (1-heat range colder than stock) 180F Thermostat Dual Electric Fan Conversion Dual Row Heavy Duty Radiator Custom Header w/TD04 Flange to accept newer turbos TD04-13g WRX Turbo (2005) @ 14psi Perrin Manual Boost Controller WRX Downpipe WRX Top Mount Intercooler HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve Greddy E-Manage Ultimate Engine Managment Custom 2.25inch Stainless Exhaust Sachs XT6 Clutch I dyno'd the car at my college in FWD and at 18psi of boost I put down 260whp but I was detonating pretty bad on the top end so i'm tuned for 14psi right now safe tune and at 14psi I put down 220whp. I've maxed out the 280ZX Turbo Injectors so once I get the custom 450cc's from this company in california I will be good to go. I'm also considering upgrading to a VF-39 Turbo which should help keep boost levels lower but power up. I dont have a printout of the dyno sheet for you guys since there was no printer on the dyno at the college, but people who have ridden in it can testify for me lol.

Ok progress made finally!>?!?! I decided to rip out all the wiring in the dash and engine/chassis harness and inspect everything, about 5 hours later I found the air flow meter harness to be the problem. I opened up the insulation to find 2 of the wires melted together! I cut out the bad sections and repaired the harness, the car still wont start but I bet I chooked this ECU as well, so its back to u-pull it tomarrow for another ECU. It's funny because right when I was about to give up I found the problem by accident, I so wanted to sell this car today it's not even funny. I will keep you guys posted.

ok im really pissed off and confused now : Today I traced the smell to the computer, so I went to the u pull it and got another computer, put it in and guess what it fired right up! so I took off and as soon as I made a LEFT turn it DIED and smoke rolled out from under the dash again! Now it wont start again. IM STUMPED!

Boy yesturday sucked big time..... It all started while I was heading down I-205 South going to work, I noticed the car around town ONLY when I would make a left turn would severly buck and shake, then after the turn was over it would go back to normal, this kept happening all day and only on left turns, so I'm getting on I-205 waiting at the meter lights and a White 2004-05 STI with Exhaust and who knows what else rolls up next to me, so I rev alittle to get his attention, he looks over and laughes at me and gives me the thumbs down, so I decide to give him a little wake up call, when my light turns green I dump the clutch at 4500rpm and take off spinning all 4 tires (smoke everywhere) I then look in the mirror and see his front end jump up as he gets on it to catch me, but to his dismae I'm holding ground and doing over 90mph at this point still ahead I then slow down and he catches up and gives me the thumbs up! Then about 5min later I goto pass a truck and get on it and the car suddenly bucks HARD and smoke fills the cabin (electrical) the car dies and I coast off to the side of the road, cranks but wont start. Anyone had this problem before? I'm stumped

Well I was going to convert the EJ20H to Single Turbo and run a VF-39, I mean the only reason why I wanna use it so bad is the price $500 for a complete twin turbo Ej20H is a killer deal and he would let me make payments too, but from what I have been reading I might consider an EJ20G Swap Instead but its more money....There is a guy on ebay selling EJ20G Swap's with EVERYTHING needed, ecu, axels, manual tranny, harness,etc for around $1300-1500 which isnt too bad but allot more than $500. Either way I would prefer an EJ20T motor or EJ25T motor due to the fact that the heads are much better flowing and yeild more potential and the DOHC is allways a plus.

Well here's the deal. I have a guy who is willing to sell me an EJ20H Twin Turbo Engine for $500 I could go find an EJ22T but thats not going to be easy and I highly doubt I'll find one for $500 in perfect working order. Any ideas?

The car is a non-turbo, im just debating wheather or not to build the 2.2 or just go newer and stick an EJ20T in it and do the usual stage2 mods to bring it up to 300hp and be reliable.

Today I picked up a 1990 Legacy Sedan 5-speed AWD for $200 with a blown engine, the car has 260,000miles on it and the tranny was replaced at 150,000miles. The car is overal in good shape and the body is streight. I have allways wanted to find an older legacy and do a performance build. My question is, which engine swaps could I do and what would it take to do them? I'm mainly interested in an EJ20T (JDM or USDM WRX) Engine Swap. The car will be a daily driver but I still want to get it up to around 250-300hp (crank) I'm new to the older legacys so I dont know much about them, I know allot about the Loyale's and WRX's, I'm a subaru tech as well so I can do all of my own fab and labor. I can't wait to build this baby!

It's not that hard to do this quick test, simple remove the exhaust header bolts, the 2 motor mount nuts and the dog bone. Then remove bellhousing bolts and jack engine up until it clears the studs, pull the engine out of the transmission just a few inches until the splines are out and try and turn the engine over by hand, this doesnt take long and will tell you if the motor is junk or not. I have seen on an automatic where the torque converter wasnt seated all the way into the tranny cause this, and the engine bolted right up to the trans without issue, but the engine would NOT turn.

I wouldn't ever advise trying to brake loose an engine doing this, whatever is jamming the rotating assembly is going to break and cause some major damage, figure out whats stuck and fix it right before you end up breaking more parts.

hmm ever stop and wounder if your adapter or something in your transmission is causing the problem? loosen all the bellhousing bolts and lift the engine up and pull it out of the tranny a few inches and see if she turns. Since your using the EJ-EA Adapter and stuff maybe something isnt clearanced right? Just a thought.

I was told the shims need to be .020' and thats what they sent me, but that didnt work out worth a crap, they really dont know much on the subject.

http://www.torquefreaks.com has the dyno you want to tune it on. They have one of the best tuners in the Northwest

Yeah I went through the same CRAP with Delta over the shim issues, they never informed me about it so I dropped them in and fired it up, sounded like CRAP!!!! I called them back and they said "yeah you need shims, we'll send you the washers to fix it" So I waited a week, pulled the motor apart put there washers in, put it back together and guess what? a bunch of the lifters still clicking away, and I think IIRC 2 valves not closing (misfires) So at this point I was beyound pissed, so I had to tear back into it again. As it turns out the valve heights vary from valve to valve enough to make 1 size of shim not the solution, after about 2 more tear downs I got the magic clearances, which included dimes in the lifter bores. I did however run into another issue, over time (not much) 2 or 3 of my lifter bores got seriously damaged with there washers and the washers actually got POUNDED into the lifter bores in the head, I pulled little chunks out of the heads with a magnet!!!!! Those bores are forever ruined now with new clearance with the remaining fused washers in them, I got lucky enough tho that I could get it back to specs with some shaved dimes and all is finally well with the valvetrain. The only time I get ticks is in the morning for a little while until temp comes up and its not very loud, I can live with that! Basically shim everything up until you can BARLY and I mean BARLY wiggle the rockers (you shouldnt be able to see them move, you should only feel them have the littlest ammount of play) The power however is improved on the top end ALLOT, but the low-end power is completly gone compared to the stock cams, plus these stage3's need engine managment and bigger injectors to run right and the idle is lumpy and vacuum is usually around 12-15hg instead of 19-20hg with the stockers. I would only rec. this grind for a racing application as more low-end is needed for street driving which I sort of miss. Once you hit 4000rpm hang on tho, this cam screams from 4k until 7k

Are you using OEM Subaru Gaskets? If not, thats the real problem...

Yeah the 260's are totally different.

ahh notice how I was waiting to hear from you on lifter noise after it got running with the delta 272s? Here's the problems : 272 Cam Need List : 1. Lifter Shims to fix valve to lifter clearances since the center lobe is ground down too far on the 272's *TICK TICK TICK TICK* (Remove the Valve covers and put your finger on the rockers, if you can wiggle them and notice lots of play this is the problem, there should be little to NO movement when you try and wiggle them) 2. Fuel Managment - The 272 Cams will make the car run way too lean at idle and stall and die, then around 3-4k it will fall on its face Here's what I found to work well with those cams : 80's Nissan 280ZX Turbo Fuel Injectors (junk yard) APEXI S-AFC-II Fuel Controller TD04-13g Turbo@7psi Now here's the tricky part, now people know since the EA82-T MAF Sensor has a 0-7volt Range intead of the typical 0-5volt range. The SAFC controller only has a 0-5v Range, so normally with stock injectors the car would lean out at higher rpm's and now matter how much fuel you told the SAFC to give the motor it couldn't because it was allready at 5volts out of range. But if you use the 280ZX Turbo Injectors, they have enough extra fuel flow to counter act this to a point. I've done testing watching the AFR's and with the SAFC I was able to push : Stock Turbo 12psi to 6500rpm TD04-13G Turbo 7-8psi to 6000rpm With no lean issues with this setup. The real solution is Megasquirt or E-Manage Ultimate since you can Delete the MAF and convert to MAP which works MUCH better and will allow you to achive higher boost and control timing. Another cheaper method is to add a 5th Injector with a small controller to kick on with a Boost Switch. Either way the 272 cams require supporting mods to work properly. Good luck, if you need anymore help feel free to contact me since I have the 272 Cams in my car and have gone through all the hell getting them to work. In the end with everything finally dialed in they were worth it

The 164k EA82-T I got used and tore apart to use the block had the Thurst bearing sloppy, I could hear a clunk when moving the crank back and forth

If you got the 272 Delta Cams let me know how the lifters sound when you get it fired up, did they give you instructions on shims?

Yeah EA82's have the THRUST Bearing and Middle Bearing together. The THURST bearing controls crank walk.