Steveman09

How come you arent answering your PM's I sent ya or the email?

I would like to know what clutch this is? Who makes it?

You are 50% right about the injector and RRFPR : You CAN raise the fuel pressure to a POINT where you can sqeeze some extra CC out of the stock injectors until you reach the point where the line pressure exceeds the injector opening pressure, then its all down hill from there and you start to LOOSE fuel efficency and lean out (bad) The Stock Fuel Injectors Last time I checked on the forums are 185CC Units, and they are capable of supporting 148HP (crank) at 100% Duty Cycle, and since running them at that rate is not safe and will lead to injector failure they can only in reality support 118HP (crank) at 80% Duty Cycle which is the safe limit, sure others on here have rolled the dice and ran the injectors at 90% maybe even 100% and had good results but you much understand they are ticking timebombs at 85%+ Duty Cycle. Sure there have been people on stock injectors putting down crazy HP numbers, but this is because they ran lean, and everyone knows lean = power to a point but more importantly = engine early death. Best power is achived around 13-13.5:1 AFR but Engine Safety would be in the 12-12.5:1 Zone and Stock Injectors with Boost turned up simply cant do this. The only thing you can do on these EA82 cars is to do the 5th Injector Setup if your looking to make more reliable power. There has been lots of success with this setup and it seems to work well, do a search on it. Good luck.

HAH my car is lighter than yours

Which performance clutch are we talking about here? I've been looking for a Performance EA82-T Clutch.....

So how much will it cost TOTAL for a MS-II ready to turn the key?

The MS-II assembled unit you list in there is like $410 does this come with the harness and everything needed to turn the key?

BTW with Megasquirt I was mainly referring to the MS-II and MS-I with MSNS and DIS conversion. Update: After doing some testing of my own with a voltage meter attached to the Hotwire MAF in my 87 GL10 I found out that it does indeed go over 5v under WOT on Boost! This is no good for the apexi since it only reads 0-5v max. I found Fuel Cut Happens at 5.9volts@11psi, Normal 7psi it sits around 5.7-5.8volts max. The EA82 Hotwire MAF's are 0-10v Mass Air Flow Meters instead of the conventional 0-5v units found on all other cars. I allready ordered the Apexi which just arrived after finding this out so I went ahead and sold it to my friend for him to use in his Mistubishi Mirage and I just ordered the E-Manage off Ebay got a really good deal on it and the guy is including the Injector Harness and Ignition Harness for only $250!!! I couldn't beleave this price since I have been surfing all day and the same setup runs 350give or take. I'm excited to get this thing installed in the soob and start making some dyno pulls.

I did some research and talked to Rallitek (local subaru guys) And they told me that my HOTWIRE maf (87) uses 0-5v for the output, so I think it will be ok. Megasquirt is a cool thing but after reading, and reading, and reading and reading, it has lots of negative things about it, sure it can be had for around 200 bucks but this is NOT assembled, then you have to add up all the small parts to make it work, Assembled and ready to run you will be sitting over 300 easy. There are tons of connectors, wiring, hours and hours of trial and error to make it all work and I just can't justify all that work being worth it with my project goals. Then on top of all of it to make it really work good on a EA82-T car you have to convert the whole ignition to DIS and/or addon MSNS which is ALLOT more money. Then you have to go through all the hassel of making a map from scratch just so the thing can run. Why in the world would I want to do all of that for 200hp? Hopfully you can all see my point. I'm not knocking the megasquirt as I think its really cool and I DO plan using it on my Legend 400hp Turbo Project, but for my suubie it just isnt worth it.

I got a really good deal on it, I only paid $175 brand new through a friend, I still do plan on a megasquirt system but I'm going to put it on my Acura Legend since that car will be pushing upwards of 400hp to the wheels with the GT35 Turbo, I think this S-AFC will do just find with the soobie since I'm not shooting for really high HP numbers, its going to be a daily driver and the TD04 really isnt that big of a turbo as most people think, my engine is allready fully built and ready to accept it, I'll be happy with 200hp to the wheels after dyno tuning on the soobie. My goal is to have it quick but reliability is the most important thing with this car.

I just ordered Apexi's new S-AFC II Air/Fuel Piggyback Manangment System for the GL10, I was woundering if anyone has attempted this on a EA82-T Car before? I just wanna know if there are any supprises I'm going to run into and whatnot. I do plan on getting the car Dyno Tuned after the TD04 is installed along with the HKS Fuel Cut Defender.

Can I see some pics of your TD04 with a non-spyder manifold, I'm trying to do this but I'm having trouble.

The TD04 requires allot more modification. Spyder Intake Manifold New Uppipe Flange New Downpipe Lots of work compared to a Legacy Turbo swap.

He is exactly right, all manual car's i've driven do this, I never understood it until I had a manual tranny apart then it all made perfect sense.

I wounder if there is a way to use CAM sensors instead of just 1 crank so this doesnt happen?

2.2L Legacy Turbo fits without much mods, thats about it.

Update: Well I finally found my problem, it turned out to be a Post Turbo Boost Leak The tube from my intercooler to the TB had a slight tear in it leaking boost Fixed the leak and all is well now! Back to kickin rump roast!

If you read onto WJM posts he claimed the XT6 clutch didn't hold and slipped at the same point as the stock clutch did, this is because of the flywheel machined step was incorrect. I sold my XT6 clutch kit.

Take the problems your having and multiply them by 3 and you get my suubie

Have your mech. do a cylinder Leakdown Test with compressed air. This will tell you where your HG is leaking if it really is.

I've checked the Cap & Rotor both are fine, Air Filter is new, and I'm running Stock Boost 7psi I also have a boost gadge on it and it still did this when I wasn't under boost.

Yesturday I was driving home from work doing my usual speeds, as I was going up a big hill (hwy 26) I downshifted to 4th to pass a truck and as soon as the RPM's got up to about 4000rpm (not WOT) and I wasn't in Boost, the car suddenly fell flat on its face for 1 second, then returned to normal. I put it back in 5th for a few seconds thinking what the hell that was, then I put it back in 4th and this time hit WOT and got into full boost and it did the exact same thing again. I have been having very light surging issues latly at cruise speeds and on initial startup the idle is rough for about 30 seconds then smooths out. It kind of felt like my Chevy Tahoe did when it was getting starved for fuel at WOT (fuel pump was bad) I've replaced : Ignition Coil Ignition Module/Ignitor Cap & Rotor Fuel Filter Spark Plugs and Wires I'm at a loss.

Could be Coil or Ignition Module located under the coil.

Like this? It's made by Autometer and Summit Racing stocks it It's for a CRX.

2.7ohms isnt considering low impedance last time I checked. I used to have a pair of Performance Low Impedance Injectors for the Acura and they were like less than 1ohm