Steveman09

To avoid future electrical problems, I suggest a ground wire kit, these older subaru's have terrible ground systems.

Pictures as Promised : -=56k BEWARE=-

There is an old skool way to do it yourself without a machine. This is for TOE only : Park car on smooth flate surface and set parking brake. Get enough rope to go around all 4 tires (bungee works best) Tighten the crap out of it then push it down to the ground so just the bottom tip of the tires have the rope around them, then 1 by 1 loosen the TOE alignment bolts in the rear, do 1 side at a time, you'll see the wheel slighly move, tighten it back down and your done! This will set the TOE the same as the front wheels. I've done this as well as a few other buddy's with good results. Camber is totally different and requires a professional. The old EYE ball trick does work somwhat but it's not going to be right.

If you have an EA82 motor to adjust the base timing make sure you connect the GREEN TEST connectors by the ECU first, then time it to specs. Also on the EA82 Dizzy's there is an index mark on the bottom near the gear on the shaft housing that you line up before dropping it in.

Basically you need a door lock actuator for the drivers door only, you need to fab it all up so it pushes the linkage in the lock when you give it power. This will cause all the other doors to mimick the drivers door IF you have power locks like on my gl-10, if you have manual locks then you need a actuator for each door PITA

FEW! I'm proud to report the SWAP is COMPLETE!!!!!!!!! Wow what a PITA it was, I learned ALLOT about the EA82 Drivetrain during this swap, I started on Saturday Morning and got delayed due to a clutch/flywheel compatability issue (see other thread) I finally got it all done today so it took me about 2.5 days to complete it. Which is not bad considering all the problems I had along the way. I ended up replacing both front lower ball joints due to one side's threads rounding off while trying to remove the Castle nut But I kind of wanted to replace them anyways since they were old and the condition and lifespan left on them was unknown The rear diff, driveline, linkages, and tranny were a DIRECT fit with no issues, they simply bolted right up! The pedal box was a PITA since the whole Steering Collum has to be removed as well as the ECU to get the pedal box out. I transfered all my cruise control stuff and brake light switches to my pedal box assembly pretty easily. Then I just popped the big rubber plug out of the firewall for the clutch cable to pass through and routed it right to the tranny's fork. The manual tranny crossmember mounts to a different place on the cars body compared to the automatic so longer bolts are required (got mine at the yard). Also the Flywheel bolts are longer for the Manual Flywheel compared to the Automatic Flexplate. Down in the console where the automatic shifter wiring is, I had to splice together 2 wires to bypass the Nuetral Safety switch so the car would start without having that big shifter switch down under the carpet somwhere. Everything else went pretty smooth, just a matter of getting it done. At times I found it overwelming but it got better as I pressed on. There is also a pin on the ECU you have to ground to make your cruise control work and the ECU think it has a Manual tranny instead of a Auto. I beleave it was pin 30, I'll post a pic later. I filled the tranny up with fresh gear oil and took it for a spin, WOW what a difference, its like NIGHT and DAY compared to the AUTO!!!!! I can roast the tires without even dumping the clutch in 1st and seriously brake the tires loose shifting to 2nd. I even tryed a right hand turn from a stop in 4WD HIGH at WOT and I still burned the tires (Yes it was burning more than the fronts) Well thats it for now, I'm exhausted, I still have some small things to take care of such as the Speedo Cable, the Auto cable is shorter so it wont reach now, and I need to wire up my backup lights, other than that its complete!!!! I'll post TONS of pics later when I wake up.

Ok I finally got it all fixed and working, I had to go buy a new EA82-T Clutch Kit and it works great!!!! In the future I will remember to use XT6 Clutch Kit's with an XT6 Flywheel, I checked around and called a bunch of subaru guru's and found a difference of about .012 between the EA82 and XT6 Flywheels, this is why my throwout bearing was never releasing the clutch, it just couldn't reach it enough. Thanks for the replies I appreciate it. I'm going to stick with this Borg and Beck Sach's Clutch for now until the Centerforce Dual Friction EA82 Clutch comes out

Well I think it would be fine dealing with a N/A EJ22 but the EJ22-T might be another story if its modded. You WILL however need a Engine Black Custom Adapter to attach an EA series transmission to an EJ series engine block. SEARCH for MUDRAT I think he makes them. Good luck with your swap, its a big project and lots of work, but in the end it would be really cool.

Ok from what I have learned about subaru engine's esspecially the ea motors is they allways leak sooner or later and the lifespan of the seals is usually around 60k, so given your crate motor has 40k on it, is it origional? Or was it built a short time ago, this matters since seals and gaskets harden up over time, so low milage doesnt allways mean no worries I would highly advise a complete OEM reseal of the motor before dropping it in to make sure you dont run into problems down the road and when the engine is out of the car is the best time to do it. If its an EA82-T then I would STRONGLY advise changing ALL coolant hoses on the motor. Trust me I know this from expiereince Anyways good luck with your project.

Yeah, I have been looking for performance ea82 clutchs with no luck, I did however find out that CENTERFORCE is making a Dual Friction Unit for the EA82 that will be shipping to stores starting 6/13/05 tho! I'll end up switching to that clutch later on since I'm sure to need it with the TD04 and TMIC.

So let me get this right.... If I have my EA82 Flywheel machined down to a certain spec (i'll pm mudrat) then this XT6 Clutch will work, I understand this, but doing this lowers the grip the pressure plate exerts on the Clutch disc, basically it will work just fine for a stock ea82-t, but with my modified motor its basically a waste of time since the XT6 Clutch isnt really working like it was intented, this would explain why WJM said when he did a XT6 Clutch on his EA82-T (modified) it slipped exactly the same as the stock EA82-T clutch.... Is it possible that my XT Turbo (EA82-T) flywheel and GL WAGON D/R 5-speed Tranny have a compatability issue? I wouldn't think so since its been said all EA82 flywheels/trannys work together.... Anyways I just got back from all the u-pull it's around and could not find a XT6 Flywheel so I'm struck. I'm going to go pickup a EA82 Clutch Kit this afternoon and see if that fixes my problems. Sorry If I sound pissy right now, I'm just really agravated since I swapped the Rear Diff, shift linkages, re wired the car, put the tranny in, drive shaft, all for nothing.

anyone?

I dont have the cable even installed yet, it doesnt matter since there is NO resistance on the FORK of the transmission. I just got done removing the tranny and we found the problem. It seems the XT6 Pressure Plate and EA82 Flywheel have a compatability issue since when the pressure plate is tightened down to the flywheel all the fingers flatten out! This is why the release bearing and fork dont reach the fingers and release the clutch. The XT6 Pressure Plate is too thick on the friction surface for the EA82 Flywheel! I'm agravated right now since lots of people said it would work on these forums, but obviously no one really tried it completly. Also a guy said machining the STEP on the EA82 Flywheel fixes my problems but this is just a bandaid, because the REAL problem is the Total Depth of the EA82 Flywheel is much smaller than the XT6 Flywheel, so machining the EA82 Flywheel to bring the fingers out of the XT6 Flywheel WOULD work, BUT this would make the XT6 Flywheel MUCH weaker thus defeating the whole purpose of running an XT6 Clutch in an EA82-T Motor. So now I have 2 options : 1. Find a XT6 Flywheel (good luck) 2. Buy a EA82-T Clutch (another $160) And Hopfully return the XT6 Clutch but I doubt they will take it back. GRRR, if anyone in the portland area has a tip on where to get an XT6 Flywheel quick let me know ASAP since my car is torn down and I need to drive it next week. PM me.

Ok as you all know I have been swapping from auto to 5-speed d/r 4wd : I purchased a LUK 88-91 XT6 Clutch Kit to install I have a flywheel from a XT Turbo (Ea82) And Had it machined. Everything is together but the clutch fork has no pressure in it and just flops back and forth It's acting like it cant touch the pressure plate fingers to release them. When I turn the crank and wheels move, when I push the fork the wheels still move! HELP Could the tranny be wrong? EA81 possibly?

Update : Just got the flywheel today, its from an XT Turbo, I sent it out to the machine shop to have it resurfaced and checked out, I just got it back and it looks great. I was looking for clutch options and recently found a Exedy Performance Clutch for $109 on a site, I ordered it and just was informed its on BACKORDER So I will be stuck for now with a OEM XT6 Clutch Kit for $200. I've got everything I need now for the swap and I just found out the Tranny is actually a Non Turbo Manual with a 3.90 ratio so I went ahead and got a 3.90 Ratio Rear Differential to match it. I guess all in all its better this way since the axels will fit that I allready have and the gears will be slighly shorter for better acceleration. I will be swapping everything this weekend and I'll take lots of pictures and maybe make a DIY or GUIDE to help others in the future. If anyone has any better ideas for a clutch solution let me know. BTW I called Centerforce and they informed me thier lattest Dual Friction Clutch for the EA82-T will be shipping 6/13/05!!!! This is good news for all us Performance EA82-T's! I'll keep you all up to date on the progress.

Water Pump and Seal Oil Pump Seal Cam Seals Valve Cover Gaskets Check your tensioners and timing idliers for a seized up pulley to make sure thats not the cause of the belt failure. I would lean towards the excessive oil and coolant in the covers that caused the belt to fatigue.

There are modifications for the 3AT to make it preform better in shifting (PV Valve adjusting) Amound other things, but when it comes down to it, you have to remember the problem with the 3AT : 1. Only 3 gears 2. Horrible Gear Ratios that are out of the engine power band 3. Overheats easily 4. Low Stall Converter resulting in poor low end 5. Governer is prone to failure (allready rebuilt mine once) 6. Poor Control over car A Manual Tranny has the following advantages : 1. 5 gears 2. Close Gear Ratios that stay within the Engine's powerband 3. Excellent low end capability since it has a clutch which can be slipped at any desired RPM point to launch 4. Stronger than Automatic (can withstand much more HP) 5. Tranny is Lighter than Automatic 6. More Efficient Use of Engine Power 7. Better Gas Milage than Auto 8. Superior Control over car And the list goes on..... It really comes down to the car's purpose and what you want to do with it. My car was fine with the auto when it was bone stock, but now that I have modified the engine it has become the weakest link and is holding the engine's potential back majorly. Thats why I'm converting amoung other reasons as listed above.

I have mech. and they are more accurate than electrical unless you get the really highend electric ones that run $200+ per gadge. I haven't had any oil leaks inside the car and I've had em in there for about a year. I have however had problems under the hood due to pinching the fragile plastic lines, a much better option is the copper lines that are allot stronger, this elliminates the chance of a leak.

Thanks for the clearup, now its starting to make sense I was getting a bit confused, since my last trip to the yard saw your explanation rather than others that have posted and have me scratching my head LOL

If you truly lost oil pressure your lifters would let you know It would sound like a bag of rocks rolling through the motor. You know its bad when a guy in a big diesel truck looks over as you pull up and makes a weird face. dont ask me how I know that.

Ok thanks for the info, I'll check it out tomarrow.

where is this wire located and what color is it if you remember?

When I rebuilt my EA82-T my Reseal Kit (OEM SUBARU) came with 8 rubber seals, I used them all. 1000miles on the new motor, going fine not burning a drop of oil.

Well I finally got the alarm system installed and working, I've done a few in the past but I learned that the GL is unique to all other installs I have done in the past in more ways than one Features I installed are : Remote Start Hood Pin Trunk Pin Dome Light Illumination Battery Backup Siren Starter Kill Dual Zone Shock Sensor As you can see it was a wiring mess of connections, but in the end it turned out ok, I have a few more small things to address. I have a few questions regarding interfacing the power door locks into the alarm. After inspecting the power door lock system it seems that I will need to purchase an aftermarket door lock actuator in order to interface the power door locks to my alarm system so I can lock and unlock the doors upon disarm/arming the system? Is this correct, or is there an easier way? Also I need to know if anymore knows where to tap into the door trigger wire. I tried soldering a wire on the drivers side door trigger in the door jam but it only sounds the alarm if that door is opened, not any of the others Also if anyone has any questions about the remote start part of it I would be glad to help out in other people's installs.