wentz912

What do I need as far as RHD vs LHD specific to 5 speed swap a RHD 96 Legacy? My meager amount of searching so far says I can use the following from a LHD car: Transmission Shifter and linkage Starter Clutch ECU to maintain ABS Basically the only thing I'm really concerned with is the pedal set and all its appropriate linkage. Do I need to find a JDM/RHD set or are they same same with LHD? I kinda suck at searching, maybe someom

Mine. PM me where to send money to.

I can personally vouch for Steve's product. I am now running one of his stainless single port UEL's and it is one stout piece of equipment! His welds are barely distinguishable between human and robotic, in my opinion.

well, diligence still conquers all apparently. Drivers side was off by one tooth. All fixed now. Can't believe how much power these have when they are running properly! Thanks to all that assisted!

Have any spares around the shop, GD? I'm going to go through the other stuff mentioned here in this thread, just to check MORE stuff off the list. I hate throwing parts at something hoping that it will fix it.

Engine is a EJ22. Have not yet checked compression as I have thus far been convinced that it is a sensor/electrical component issue. Plugs were NGKs, left them gapped at the recommended distance that they came out of the box at. How does one check engine vacuum? I will double check my cam timing tomorrow, although with how much I fought it getting the thing installed, I'm 99.999999999999% certain it is correct.

Car is a 96 Legacy Brighton, 5MT, Phase one, Single Port EJ22E, currently 141k miles on the whole package. So, I've been trying to clear up a miss/stumble that my car has had since I've owned it. Never got to drive it before the repairs I did to it, so I cannot speak for it's condition before hand. Anyhow, when I got the car it needed a new passenger side cam and pulley because the PO had failed to fully tighten the bolt that mounts the pulley to the cam, and the keyway had been torn up. Also threw a timing kit,including water pump, at it while I was in there, just because. The issue I am having is that after warming up the car has a miss/stumble at anything other than WOT. Some days are worse than others, with no real pattern to the malfunction that I'm able to discern. I occasionally get a code/CEL for misfires on cylinders two and three. When plugged into GD's live scanner, the timing showed as being correct, with no other codes than the ones mentioned above. BUT the fuel trim rates are all kinds of crazy. I think the worst we saw while looking at it was -27 while at idle. It would eventually catch up when holding her to WOT, then go back to super crappy as soon as you tried to hold it mid throttle or at idle. Along with what I mentioned above, I have replace the O2 sensor with a new NTK unit, the coil pack with a used JY unit, new NGK plugs and wires, the Crank Position sensor with a good used one off an engine that ran fine, and even went so far as to replace all four injectors with the ones off the known good engine. None of these parts have helped my problem, or made it worse for that matter. So, at this point, I'm out of ideas and damn near out of patience. I know it's probably something really stupid that is holding me up, but I can't for the life of me figure out what it is.

Can I play?

Clunking is a pretty typical bad strut noise in my experience.

Where under the intake is the second temp sensor?

So I've got a 96 Legacy wagon with 140k on the EJ22. Got a little runnability issue that is being discussed elsewhere, but thought I'd ask here about another issue. My temp gauge in the dash rarely comes up off the needle at cold. The T-stat is a brand new OEM unit, water pump is brand new, the fans come on, and I have burped the system a couple of times just to be sure. Heat/Defrost works AWESOME Would a bad coolant temp sensor default the fans to constantly on? And if so, why would I occasionally get slight movement of the gauge when sitting for a while?

I'd be halfway inclined to think fuel delivery, since when you give it more air, it can't keep up.

Any progress on this yet? I am having a similar issue in my all stock 96 Leg Brighton. Car runs great until warm then starts having a stutter/miss randomly across the RPM range.

I can't have been THAT far off. It ran and gave me 25+mpg! I won't lie and say I drove like Granny does either. That thing saw plenty of 4500 RPM shifts.

Don't forget to let me know when you want a ride down there man!

Both front calipers were in good shape. Haven't felt any weird heat issues, have been trying the back of my hand on the wheel every time I stop after driving a bit. No change that I can hear during turns either. Wondering if it's possible worn parts in the rear too. Guess I'll see if it goes away when I swap rear hubs/knuckles to my disk brake stuff before I go spend money on front wheel bearings.

Five lug patterns are actually measured from the center of one stud, to the outside edge of the stud two over from it.

I ruled out the tires by replacing all four with brand new ones. I also noticed the noise doesn't change any when I'm coasting or under power. Clutch in or out. Nothing changes the noise except road speed and that just makes the frequency of the noise different. REALLY hoping it's just a wheel bearing.

Is this the noise I'm hearing in my car (96 Legacy Brighton Wagon)? Can hear it "whom whom whom whom whom whom whom" -ing going down the road, and the noise increases/decreases in direct correlation to my road speed. Thought it was brakes at first since the noise was in tune with the pulse I felt at the pedal. Replaced rotors and pads, wheel bearings still feel tight, and the pedal pulse is gone but the noise remains!

Any new goodies or other parts to share? Hoping to hear about some progress!

Were those questions directed at me or examples of questions the scanner can answer?

I don't have a scanner at all. When I get back to town I will see if the guy with a scanner I know, if his is capable of that. Just so I understand, what am I looking for?

It's a 96, so it is an MAF car, will jump on the pcv change. Have checked timing several times and is still dead nuts. Easy yo check since im coverless

Have brand new NGK plugs and wires, as well as a diffrerent coil off another car. Also brand new fuel filter and oil change. Thing runs fine most of the time, just seems to stumble when loaded at lower rpm's after warmed up. If I punch it , it will burble through the stumble and pull just fine. It's the damnedest thing, can't figure it out.

Does the IAC affect warmed up engine operation at all? Have a miss/stumble that only appears after the engine has warmed up. Occasionally throws a code for misfire on #2 and #3