'84 Flat-Four

I found these locally on CL for $10. They're 5 ton stands. They make my 2 ton stands look tiny! My father-in-law has tractor work soon so these will come in handy. Anybody know about Dayton brand?

Congrats! Guido will appreciate the love its gonna get and reward you ten-fold!

Apologies for a newb question, but for my benefit as well... what would a real-time OBDII scan tell him vs. "regular" cheapy OBDII scanner?

Rebooted my PS axle & replaced shot bearings with sealed NSK set. And all this with no garage after a pummeling of 28" of snow Once I get the old bearings cleaned up I'll post pics, they're unbelievably SHOT! Can't believe I've been running on them like that and they still functioned.

whew... blue spots normal, good to go! The concave side does face the spring clip (facing the shaft). After closer inspection and trying both ways, it now makes sense to me seeing the internals move within their range of motion. It's subtle, but the non-concave side actually catches slightly if its facing the shaft, ever so slightly. Thanks guys!

I am rebooting my front PS axle using Numbchux's awesome write-up in the USRM. I have two questions... First, how does the inner race in the DOJ get oriented when reinstalling? The FSM doesn't indicate one way versus the other. There is a slightly more beveled edge but other than that it seems very uniform, almost like it wouldn't matter. Does it? Secondly, I figured I'd reboot the CV as well, and found this scoring on the outside of the CV. What's this mean? There's no clicking or indication of failure. It seems like a result of really high temperature... grease bad or no good anymore?

I can't answer that without referring to the FSM, so I thought I'd throw this your way (and anyone else of course). You can most likely match the spec sheet to the blow-up diagram sheet. I hope this will help you out a bit... https://acrobat.com/#d=sr**gQbAR*HAAwgxL0zLgw

Permatex makes a kit with copper paint to repair your lines, availble at most auto parts stores, but from the sound of it sounds like you have many breaks in your grid, like I had. 2 Cheap and effective fixes. the Permatex kit that I mentioned and the Caig conductive ink pen. Both require taping out your grid, more so to save on product but also to keep it neat. You just need relatively warmer temps than what we've been having (50 or above i think). There are also entire grids that have adhesive on them that you adhere in one shot. Don't know anything about those, but they can be had easily on ebay-motors.

It may or may not prove anything. But keep in mind, I did it once last week with the headlights on and I missed it. Thought everything was good to go. Wasn't till the real bad misfire and shutter that I started from square one again. You really need the pitch black darkness and your eyes adjusted for night vision. And don't worry you won't short or fry anything with the spray mist or shock yourself by doing so. And its worth noting that my wires and coil tested within resistance spec before the spray test.

#42002 will work as well, with a 22mm wrench. Dont use it on your front O2 sensor as it will screw-up your air-fuel mixture and make the car run like hell. If you still get the code (P0420 i presume) after the trick just replace the front with a Bosch, inexpensive vs. OEM. if youre getting the PO130 this will do nothing for it, then its an electrical issue within the circuit. Good luck! Seems like you're having a tough time with that inspection...

Will do. I'll post results when I get them...

Just want to throw this out there... have you done the water spray test? Best to do it in the pitch black darkness, engine at op temp, and with your eyes adjusted for the dark. Use a spray bottle to mist the water. Spay the wires and coil. Reason I throw this out there is cause I was chasing a misfire on #2 for a couple weeks. Then yesterday #2 & #4 misfired badly. I sprayed it down and after a few seconds it was like chinese new years in the engine bay. All four wires and the coil sparkling like mad at different points. I noticed that it took a few seconds to sparkle and I had to really stare at it in the dark to see the sparkles. If I'm stating the obvious and you've done it, then ignore me. But it may be worth trying if you haven't. I getting a new coil and wires from the dealer today. Godd luck!

Yes, the only write-up I have regarding the O2 sensor within the downloaded 95 fsm is the OBD II troubleshooting section and the wiring diagram that I posted on the Acrobat site. Dammittohell isnt everything on the internet true?!?!? No, the conector on my car is a box with four "slots" for pins/terminals (both harness side and sensor side). However only three wires feeding both connectors. Number 4 terminal empty in both. FSM (the one I have) indicates #4 to be tested. In an attempt to answer Legacy777's question, I think #4 is the ground (black wire) according to the wiring diagram... But I could be wrong on this. When testing... #1 has 12v to it with ign to "On". which is the YR wire. The other two, #2 & #3 are quiet. Fairtax2me: I will definitely take you up on your offer to email me that FSM you have. Out of order Smorder, the one I have was out of wack and I pieced it together... time I will never recoup. Having an FSM that doesn't reflect reality is killing me... its like having a parts diagram to an AK-47 when you have an AR-15 in front of you... I'll PM you... many thanks! , (find out USMB is there to save the day) ,

front sensor

Backwards or forwards, plug B18 in my pic and in the pic Fairtax4me posted are clearly different. His is slotted for three pins and mine is slotted for 4 pins, even though mine only had three wires going into it.

Well that answers my question... the page I have is NOT that. The text is below... the pdf file i have is encrypted for security so I can't extract images or just one page to attach here. This link may work... may not... https://acrobat.com/#d=JE40RGrTi*HvjoKuKCigRQ https://acrobat.com/#d=VJY3rbc1DocpW2wxqD8GYg Did you download that FSM from the web? If so can I get the address so I can unload the one I have... clearly irrelevant... OBD0705A 3 CHECK HARNESS CONNECTOR. 1) Turn ignition switch to OFF. 2) Disconnect connector from front oxygen sensor. 3) Turn ignition switch to ON. 4) Measure voltage between front oxygen sensor harness connector and body. : Connector & terminal (B18) No. 4 — Body/0.2 V, or more : Repair harness and connector. NOTE: In this case, the following are the possible causes. 1 Open circuit of harness between ECM and front oxygen sensor. 2 Poor contact in the ECM connector. : Go to next . : Is there poor contact in front oxygen sensor connector? : Repair poor contact in front oxygen sensor connector. : Replace front oxygen sensor.

:-\ Was the said individual an uppidy-i-am-an-arteest-type? Lame is what I say...

OK, so I am chasing a P0130 and yeah, I know, just replace the sensor and go from there, or it could be any number of sensors causing havoc... but being who I am I need to research and read-up on everything in an attempt to understand things. So I go to the FSM. I go to the Troubleshooting section, OBD II chapter, and read about the steps that include checking pin #4 for 0.2v or more (bottom right pin looking at the car-harness connector). So I go to the Pin on the car with my multimeter and lo and behold, there's no pin #4. There's only Pin 1, 2 & 3.(blank spot in bottom right pin location). Same deal on the O2 sensor connector, blank spot in #4 location. I then go to the wiring diagram section of the FSM, and the diagram indicates 3 pins. But the diagram lists 3 pins, pin numbers 1,2, & 4. According to the FSM here's what the connector pins should look like, the red is what's absent on my Soob. O2 sensor connector: 2 l 1 ----- 4 l 3 Car harness connector: 1 l 2 ----- 3 l 4 So can anyone shed some light on this one for me. Maybe somebody with a 95 2.2L FSM to compare... WTF?

Noise Vibration and Harshness... ? (me thinks)

Looking good speedg25. Nice work! Are you going to lift it or keep it stock suspension?

at the time of purchase I didnt mind or care really... but after a while I realized my blood-pressure was rising each time I got in the Soob... much more relaxing color

Thanks! Yes painted it with regular spray paint (for-exterior-plastic application) Valspar brand. Primed it first. The dash involved taping newspaper to the windshield and trash bags in the compartment area. one coat of primer and two coats of paint done with one can of primer and two cans of the tan paint. For the detailed tricky areas, I sprayed paint into the cap and used a small paint brush. But all the rest was piece of cake disassembly and paint away...

I de-riced my 84 wagon This has been a long time coming... believe me I was sick of that red! Before & After pics...

I consider myself a newbie here and am learning every single day I visit this site. I would like to help you as much as possible but I may not be able to as much as I would like, but here I go... One of the most valuable things I have learned here is to reduce your troubleshooting to as simple as possible... KISS (Keep It Simple Silly) You mentioned "since the cold snap"; my initial thought wold be your spark, hence your battery. Do a density check with a bulb-tester, and eliminate the battery as a cause. Next I would check your ability to keep the spark... You said "it would only start and run for a few seconds, then die. It will do this as many times as you care to start it. You can keep it running by squirting fuel directly into the intake area, but short of that it won't stay running." Being no expert, I suppose your MAF may be the issue or alternator-related. Again, I'm no expert, but I have banged my head against the brick wall enough to know that the situation you're in stinks. I have to reinforce what was already pointed out regarding the OBDII code reading... being a owner of an '84 GL (w/o ECM), consider yuourself lucky to have codes to tell yo what's up. Don't ignore the CEL, find out what it is and respond accordingly. Post the results of the reading as soon as you get them. BTW, OBD II scanners can be had at a relatively inexpensive cost... http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=obd+ii&x=0&y=0 (must credit Bucky92 for this lead... thanks Connie!) If I haven't helped at all, my apologies, but I am following this thread as I may someday be in your situation... Good luck friend!