'84 Flat-Four

That's exactly how I would describe my rear bearing sounding like... not pleasant!

did three full revolutions with the brass punch and it threaded out by hand the rest of the way. No biggie... if I can do it, you can do it.

Bashed toes suck, sorry to hear that. Rest, ice (15 on, 15 off), when off your feet, elevate your foot above your heart. But other than that, not much else you can do. If you run a fever above 99.6 for two to three days, chances are you broke it (natural body defenses). Otherwise it's just banged up real good. If you get a collection of blood under your nail, you should drain it to prevent complications, like blood infections, not to mention the sheer pain of the pressure built up.. Dremmel or hand-drill with disinfected drill bit should do the trick. Smallest one, obviously.

Liquid Wrench like its going outta style!! Everyday for a week and a half I gave it a soaking. Sprayed the shock bolt, brake line disconnect, and the three bolts that hold the backside of the brake drum to the hub. Although in retrospect I'm thinking I didn't need to take off the backside of the brake drum. I should also have soaked the brake bleeder nipple for later; I tested turning it and it wouldn't budge. I started soaking it last night. I'll soak it again tonight 1st thing then work on getting the new bearing in. It was a knuckle buster, but it feels like a Soob rite of passage of sorts...

Working on replacing rear wheel bearing. Last night I: -detached brake line without breaking it. -removed lower shock bolt. -got the trailing arm low enough for axle to pop off the spindle. -got the threaded ring nut off using a brass punch (no special tool ) -knocked out the spindle and out came everything... -sat back and cherished not finding anything else screwed up in there... Tonight I finish the job with the new seals and bearing purchased from RockAuto.

I keep seeing a yellow coupe, looks like it might be an 84 or so. Its got the chrome trunk rack and is super clean. I keep seeing it on Route 42 going away from the bridges, a brunette woman driving, and always on the phone Who is that lady? Are you on here? Nice Soob!!!

Welcome! I'm a former Pennsylvanian, from Philly, but born & raised in Montgomery County. And Bucky92 is right on the money. PA is the best! No place sucks more than NJ! (Why did I move here?)

SWEET! Rang up the order just short of placing it just to check the shipping,... $7 to ship to me in NJ. Can't beat that with a bat! Many thanks for the reply and for confirming it for me... ~Fred

How did the bearing work for you? I am about to order the same exact order you placed. At that price, if it's the right part, how can I pass it up... RockAuto...Rear 4wd bearing...NATIONAL Part # 513056... $25.79 ~Fred

I re-routed my clutch-cable to below steering and heater hoses... HOLY CRAP!!!! It's like a new clutch! I've been reading old threads about this and never thought it would have such a huge impact on the driveability... unbelievable (as everyone goes ) Also,.. tuned the Weber, installed a new muffler, carpeted the interior. Next on to-do list: get rid of interior red paint, replace shot rear wheel bearing.

84 GL wagon with a Weber. I get roughly 28-29 on the highway. Consistent 25 mpg otherwise. I went a couple of weeks without noticing the tires needed inflating and I was getting 11-15 mpg Amazing what improperly inflated tires can do to mpg!

EA81, build date: 5/84 Engine #: 544606 4spd MT, d/r, original motor Looking at Gloyale's " EA81, Build date 4/84, #519607"... in one month they pumped out 24,999 engines...

Run the valve vent lines to opposite sides of a T fitting. The center part of the T will run up to the air filter box. It is in this stretch of hose from the T to the air box that you should install another T fitting for the PCV valve hose. This time, however, the nipple that runs to the PCV valve should be a reduced size to have the system operate properly. See Post #4 in the below thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98693&highlight=weber+hose There are a variety of ways members have hooked this up. I am not educated enough in automotive mechanics to tell you one way is better than the next. What I can say is that I have mine hooked up the way I described above, and it runs perfectly. Actually, it runs absolutely amazingly perfect!!! Unbelievably awesome! Can you tell I love my weber?

Mine is an 84, so I am not sure if this will apply to you. The screw holes for the vents overlap & line-up with the dash screw holes that are used to secure the dash. So you'll have to unscrew two screws and the vent will pop out. This is from the top of the dash, so there's the risk of cracking the windshield and such. Here's my trick that worked for me... I taped a 4x4 inch piece of cardboard to the windshield directly above the screw to absorb any impact. I then used a phillips head bit with a small vise grip wrench. It only needed one full turn and I used my hands to finish removing it. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Been doing some investigating... it was organized by Subaru of America’s Great Lakes Region and the Village of Itasca, Illinois. I can see this becoming a regional competition here everyone, since there are five regional S.of A. offices: Atlanta, GA; Denver, CO; Westampton, NJ; Itasca, IL; and Portland, OR. Gene J was there... any other members? Gene J's post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101292 LMAO: Quoting Gene J, "By the way do you have any idea how many of those card had a Code Alarm remote entry or alarm? A lot! And they used the same frequency I had!"

Kinda neat. But 339 cars got the record?!?!? If USMB got all of its members' Soobs to run in a parade,... holy smokes! Look out Guinness! http://wot.motortrend.com/6559410/miscellaneous/subaru-gains-world-record-title-with-latest-parade-of-cars/index.html

Some very affordable blasters here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=505 I can't comment on any of them or their performance, but I was shocked at how affordable they were...

I have read several threads regarding greasing, over-greasing, and not greasing... If you go the route of open bearings with an application of grease, the FSM calls for 10-13 grams, or 0.35 - 0.46 ounces of bearing grease (type or brand is non-specified), to be applied to the inside of the housing. Some members here have used synthetic oil with the open bearings. I mention this as I have been made aware that too much grease will cause premature failure of the bearings. In my humble opinion and conclusion, go with sealed bearings (already greased inside, plus extra dust protection), but since you've already got the open bearings, just don't over grease them (it's the oil that drops out of the grease when heated that provides the protection, not the grease) Personally, I am planning to go with NTN brand, part # K8000-52105,(W0133-1633822). These are the sealed type. Just my two cents,... well, actually not mine, I am just regurgitating info I have found... ANYONE: please correct me if I am wrong.

AWESOME! I am very impressed and can appreciate your attention to the details! Well done! Ain't the Weber nice!?!?!

Gotta throw this out there... Did you check the tightness of the castle nut on the suspect wheel? and the orientation of the washer (wider side inboard)? reason I ask, is because I had the same experience as you describe. I know I gotta replace my bearings, but the noise warranted an investigation, so when i took a look see... I was shocked that I could tighten the castle nut 2 1/2 turns more, then for insurance, jumped on the wrench, pounded away with a sledge and cheater bar. Took it for a test-drive and all of the annoying noises ceased. I will replace wheel bearings (hopefully after next payday), but for the time being it may be worth checking...

Sounds like an awesome learning experience! Very cool! I have never done it myself. In fact, I am about to visit the JY to pull the radio harness, a small job compared to the whole rig. Good luck to you guys! It's good to see the help from one to another...

are you pulling everything? Or just the front, just the rear? I've got the FSM and may be able to post some images of the harnesses and such.

I would love to get myself an 81 hatch! I guess it depends on how much wrenching you're ready to get into. Even though it runs awesome as you state, it does have 230k on it, and a whole slew of issues will need to be addressed now or soon. IMO buy it for $200,... weberize it... seafoam it... and have a grand ole' time cruising down the road... But I am not sure about the weber on an EA71... more informed minds should chime in. I am running a weber on an 84 EA81 wagon as a daily driver. Runs great!

I voted for EA81 wagon... Come-on Wagoneers... where are you all at?!?! Come out and VOTE! I love the Brat, don't get me wrong, I'm just partial to my daily-driver.

More pleats/folds, more surface area... better filtration... my two cents...