-
Posts
1050 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by TROGDOR!
-
Hm, interesting. I wonder if different diffs had different weights? Last one I shipped was a 4.11 Legacy diff, and it was pretty solidly under the magic weight. I'm 100% sure of it.
-
Last time I shipped one, I recall about 50 pounds. UPS doesn't start hitting hard with the billing until 70 pounds, so if you're shipping it you should be fine.
-
The RX...in heaven? *56k warning*
TROGDOR! replied to WJM's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
*WHEW!!* When I saw that title, I thought the car was dead! -
Take them to the do-it-yourself car wash and spray them down with the high pressure sprayer (with soap first, then rinse). I've used this method on three sets of seats for myself and never had a stain that didn't come out. We use a similar method at work, just with a pressure washer. Grease, soda, grime from grubby hands, etc... it all comes right out. Do it first thing in the morning on a day that's supposed to be HOT and sunny, and let the seats sit out in the sun all day- they should be dry by sunset.
-
EA82 starters... manual vs. auto
TROGDOR! replied to Caboobaroo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
When doing my auto to manual conversion on my wagon, I kept the same starter and never had any problems. Also, Hollander interchange lists no major differences. However, they may well have a different kilowatt rating. Automatics generally have higher kilowatt starters, since they have to spin the torque converter as well as the engine. That being said, I wouldn't think twice about using an automatic starter on a manual, but I wouldn't go the other way around. -
I think the RX needs a paint job
TROGDOR! replied to tizzle's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
That *would* be pretty cool. Considered painting mine... but then, it'd cease to be a Black RX. So, no. -
Mitsu also makes the XT6 alternators. Friend of mine had a Mitsubishi TV, and another acquaintance had a Daewoo monitor. Amazing how those companies branch out.
-
Mysticcal, I got you beat- I had an 86 sedan with 63k and a blown engine. Also had an 87 Turbo XT with 98k and a blown engine. Recently added to the list- 89 RX with 149k and a blown engine. I am Steve, destroyer of young Subarus! (FYI, the 86 was dead when I got it, the XT blew within 600 miles of buying it, and the RX didn't even last 100 miles- so I'd like to think it isn't my fault)
-
As we all know, one of the features of a 1987-up RX is its sporty-looking body kit. Right? Not always. Both 1989 black RX's that I just got have no body kits- just an air dam and wing. I have seen one other black RX running around, and it also has just the air dam and wing. I've also seen 3 1987 RX's sporting the same trend. They were all sedans. One was silver, one was white, and one was light green- all were original paint and all had the RX VIN- and just an air dam and a wing. The only common thread among the black ones is that every one of them was a 5-speed (autos were available on 1989 RX's). Matter of fact, every 5-speed black RX I've seen had the incomplete kit, and every automatic one I've seen had the full kit. So what gives? Anyone know what determines an RX not having the full body kit or not?
-
No idea, it was like that when I got it, and the guy I got it from also got it like that. I was going to try and run it, but it has no starter installed. It should be capable of running though, as it turns easily by hand.
-
I have had a car run at half its recommended oil capacity and still read good pressure on the gauge. There is NO subsitute for simply checking the dipstick every time you get gas. Takes only seconds and is one of the best ways to monitor your car's health. Checking the oil regularly could have prevented this: Yep, that be a hole in the block, courtesy of a thrown rod. (not my doing, car was like that when I got it)
-
Is there any diff between XT/Alcyone/Vortex?
TROGDOR! replied to Phaedras's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I heard a rumor that European turbo XT's were available with FT4WD Dual Range transmissions. Also, the turbo was carried on until the end of XT production in Europe. -
...and she's not in as bad a shape as she looks. Photos at: http://photobucket.com/albums/v504/xtacyturbo/RXses/ The front clip has been replaced and poorly repainted. The front fenders are rusted at the bottom, and the hood is in terrible shape. The inner front clip structure appears original, so it looks like they just replaced the sheetmetal. Both doors are rusted at the bottom, the skin is peeling off the framework. The decklid is even rusted- it's rusted through and torn under the center post for the wing. You can see sunlight coming through. There is some primer in a couple spots on the body, also a dent on the right rear quarter and a small dent on the top of the driver's side C-pillar. The interior is completely disassembled, but all the parts are present. The seats are shot to hell. If I were to sell the car, I'd stick some GL seats in there just to get by. But... despite all this... the unibody of the car is in GREAT shape!! Virtually no rust on the unibody, ANYWHERE! The frame horns and the undercarriage look great, and the cubby holes behind the rear wheels aren't even rusted through. Very, very solid car. From the looks of the hang-on sheetmetal I'd expect it to be a basket case underneath, but it's actually one of the cleanest ones I've had. The engine has a thrown rod and a hole in the block. Even though the car has been sitting for over a year, the engine turns over easily by hand! Even with the hole in the block, I have no doubt that this engine would run if the proper parts were reinstalled. A few external engine parts have been removed, but everything is accounted for with the exception of the A/C compressor. With some reassembly and some new bolt-on sheetmetal, this could be a great little Roo. To top it off, I know where to get almost every body panel the car needs for under $150 total. Many parts already in black. Hmmmm... decisions, decisions. Fix it? Part it? Sell it? Given how rare these black RX's are, I'd hate to see it stripped and scrapped- but, I'm moving in mid-June, and if the car isn't eithe drivable or sold within a month, I'm going to have to strip it.
-
attn: traviling through from va to ne
TROGDOR! replied to tailgatewagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Same goes for here. If you're taking I-70 or I-79, I'm somewhat close. Come meet the RXses, if they're ready. -
It is being towed for free by a buddy, so getting a car trailer would cost me quite a bit more. I'll just remove the driveshaft segment before towing it. No biggie. Just was wondering if it was necessary; I've never had a FT4WD car before.
-
This one has no FWD setting. It is full time 4WD.
-
Going to tow one of my RX's to the shop this weekend, and tow the other back to my house. Question- do I need to unbolt the rear driveshaft, or will they be okay if I just leave them in neutral? They will be towed on a dolly, front wheels up, rear wheels down.
-
$600 is one hell of a deal. Around here we pay about that for them at work.... TOTALLED!!
-
Already done. They're getting one together for me now.
-
So what's your opinion about JDM engines?
TROGDOR! replied to TROGDOR!'s topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks for the input. I've decided to go with CCR on this one. It's going to obliterate my tax refund, but I think the car and the peace of mind is worth it. Plus, you can't go wrong with a 3 year warranty. -
Considering my engine options for the RX. Really not thrilled about the used engine the seller is offering to put in the car for free- I'm thinking I may just having him pay me the money he was going to spend on it, and find an engine myself. I've seen several EA82T's listed on Ebay. They say they're JDM imports with 30-40,000 miles on them. I can get one for about $800 shipped. What's your opinion of these engines? Good? Crap? Anyone have experience with one of these importers? I've spoken with CCR, and I've heard tons and tons of good things about their engines. I really would like to just use one of their rebuilt units- but, I can't afford it without help. If I can get some financial help with it, I probably will just go with one of theirs. But, these JDM engines on ebay seem like they could be a good deal- and I definitely can afford one. Suggestions?
-
I did this once a long time ago, and my memory is kinda fuzzy. The GL steering wheel has a spiral cable in it, where it plugs into the steering column- to transfer electrical signals. The DL wheel has nothing but a contact ring for the horn glued to the back of the wheel. You need to remove this spiral cable from the GL wheel, and glue the contact ring from the DL wheel onto the back of the GL one, with the little tab on it sticking through the hole that the spiral cable came out of. The actual contact for the horn is the same. I hope that actually made sense.
-
I noticed you live in rustville. Check the insides of the rear fender wells. If you don't see anything from looking between the wheel and fender, pull the interior panels and have a look. Subarus sometimes rust up in there, and yes, it IS structural. If there's rust holes in that spot, have reinforcements welded in IMMEDIATELY.
-
trashwagon pictures from various meets
TROGDOR! replied to MilesFox's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Last known picture of the trashwagon before being wrecked: