TROGDOR!

Sorry, didn't realize it was a problem. I took it down pending something smaller.

Definitely white EA82's around here. Hell, I've had 2 of em.

Well... so I bought the car today. I checked the trans and diff fluids and found that the two have not mixed, that's a good sign for the carrier bearing. The trans fluid looked like red wine... delicious, succulent red wine.... but I digress... The front differential on the other hand- the "oil" in it had the consistency of axle grease. It was like a paste. I dumped a pint of good oil in it to help it home- and the whine quieted down a little bit. Sometimes it was almost gone. I think I may have found my problem. Tomorrow I plan to power flush the diff and replace the oil. Then we shall see what happens... By the way, an update on the description of the noise- it's worst at partial throttle now, right when the tq converter engages. The harder I push the gas, the quieter it gets.

So.... here's the pics.... http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo43 Here's a sample: You can see various XT's lurking around in the background. :cool: Got the wagon home from PA without incident. Man, this thing is the coolest running Sube I've ever had! Temp gauge stayed at about 1/4 of the way up. Checked the drug smuggling compartment and I was nicely surprised... found the factory tool kit, a first aid kit, and a set of tire chains. In one of the cubby holes I found the owner's manual and wallet, plus various warranty and dealer brochures. Folded up inside the wallet... BAM! Original dealer paperwork! Did I mention I got this thing from the original owner? There was also a little notebook in there with a complete service history dating back to 1992! Tomorrow I'm gonna get to work on the transmission and see what was screaming at me all the way home.Details on that are in the "Whine while driving" thread.

Actually you can when you live in an apartment and can only afford *so* much car insurance. I already sold my XT DL to my friend Jeremy, who just joined here today under the name Conker. Once I get the trans issues sorted out on the new wagon, my red wagon is going to another friend. And I'll keep the new wagon and my turbo XT.

Me and Jeremy (Conker) are heading out in a couple hours to pick it up. It's a 92 Loyale 4WD, almost no rust, immaculate inside and out. Has the crappy 3AT though. Has a bit of a whine, may need a new trans. The best part is, the guy only wants $300 for it!! I'm definitely gonna keep this one for a while, may throw a D/R in it when I have some time. Up around here a rust-free SHELL is worth a grand, let alone a running car! Anyone from this area knows how hard it is to find a rust-free Sube- anything with rust holes smaller than a half dollar usually commands a high price. Pics up when I get it home!

Yo man, glad to see you finally joined. We gotta work on getting James to join after he buys my old wagon. Now don't go breaking *my* XT! FYI Paul and Dennis, this is the guy that came to CT with me to pick up my Turbo XT. Says that after meeting you guys he can't wait to meet Skip after me telling the story about going to get the Panzer...

Here's what models will interchange- 1985-1994 GL, GL-10, RX, and Loyale - big single lights 1985-1989 DL - quad lights This applies to the sedan, wagon, and 3 door of course. The hatches and Brats and older models with quad lights do not interchange with the later models.

Just replace the whole thing. Since it's a turbo A/T the axles for nonturbos will fit it.

This is a really easy swap to do... I did the reverse on my DL last year. You need to get the sealed beam lights and frame that holds them, the wiring for each light, the side marker lights and wiring for them, and the little tabs that attach to each side of the grille (optional). The headlights will bolt right on. You need to chop and splice the wiring harnesses though. The low beams have the same color wires, just a different plug. For the high beams, you'll need to find the power wire for it and splice in. Far as I know the GL's don't have a lead for it. For the side markers- when you pull them off the car, you'll notice a little plastic square that the lower screw screws into. There's a square hole right next to it. You need to pop it out of it's hole and move it into the other one. One of the lights in the marker also has a different kind of bulb, I forget which car has the bigger one. Whichever it is, you'll need to chop and splice that one too. For the little tabs on the grille- these were added to the DL to fill the hole between the high beam and the grille. You don't NEED them, but they're cool to have. They mount with 2 screws each on the back of the grille. And as they say in Germany... Das ist alles.

Could this really be the tranny or diff? I mean, the thing seems to have the best running 3AT I've ever driven. It's amazing how crisp it shifts- feels just like new. I would think if the tranny was going I'd notice some problems along with the noise? By the way, this only happens when I hit the gas. It goes on when I hit the gas and off when I let off, regular as clockwork. Also the intensity of the noise increases with speed, not RPM. If I push it hard it makes no change in sound. The owner says he has driven it like this for about 10,000 miles.

It only does it when the car is moving. With the trans in neutral the noise stops. Regardless of how I rev the engine, there's no noise unless the car is in gear and moving. There also was no change in sound when I turn the wheels.

Hey guys, I'm looking at a 92 Loyale wagon for cheap- the only problem I could find was that it has a hum/whine that appears off and on once the car is moving. It sounds like it's coming from the front/middle of the car. The hum is accompanied by a vibration. It only makes noise when the car is in gear with my foot on the gas. The car is a 3 speed 4WD AT with 2 new front axles. The trans seems fine, it's the sharpest shifting 3AT I've ever seen. No slippage while shifting and no hesitation when starting from a stop. There doesn't seem to be any drivability issues coming with this. The only other thing out of the ordinary is that the Check Engine light is on. The car runs smooth and straight, no drift, shudder, or shimmy. I'm thinking this may be front wheel bearings. What do you guys think?

Hmmm... my neighbor had an 86 2WD with SPFI. There's one in the yard here too if I remember right. Here's my neighbor's car, very obviously an 85/86 model... Open the hood and.... TA-DAAAA!! SPFI.

As for the nonturbos... 86 and 87 2WD's got SPFI. All 85's were carbed, except for some GL-10's which got MPFI. All 86 and 87 4WD's were carbed. From 88 on they all had SPFI.

Just fooling around with the digi cam, and got a pretty sweet shot of the XT... take a look....

If you're in MD, you may be pretty close to the mother of all yards here in PA. Not to speak for Moose, but if I remember right he doesn't have any good blue panels. He had a car with sun-rotted panels and was asking around for a new set, and I hooked him up with some. So unless he obtained more, you might want to look somewhere else. I could probably find a set, but I don't plan to be at the boneyard again for at least a couple weeks.

Whoa... what a day... Went out seeking a Y-pipe for my XT DL, found a guy parting out an 87 sedan. We agreed on $20 for the pipe. Fair enough. I got to his house, started checking out the car, played with the 4WD shifter on the trans a bit. He says... how about $50 for the trans and the pipe? Now I really don't have any use for another transmission, but for $50, you just can't turn that down. So, I got to work on the tranny. I kept eyeing the 4-spoke alloys on the car, finally I asked the guy about them. He didn't really want to let them go, and I didn't have much more money to offer, so I decided to let them slide. Once I had the drive shaft off the trans, the guy told me the car needs to be rollable- so the carrier bearing either has to go back on the car, or the shaft had to come off. I asked him if I could just take the shaft, and he let me have it. Sweet! After 2 hours of work I had the trans out and loaded into the car, and I was getting ready to leave when... the guy says, how about $25 for those wheels and tires? The tires had some pretty meaty tread left on them too. So there I was last night, had just gone after a Y pipe, and came home with a D/R trans, drive shaft, Y pipe, and a nice set of alloy wheels and tires, all for $75! Good thing I don't have a wife to piss off with all this stuff! Heh, I really love making deals like that. As for the transmission- it's already spoken for. So don't come around asking to buy it!

I'm not sure what you were working on, but on nonturbo EA82's you can get to the pins from the top. I pulled a trans yesterday and tapped them both out from the top, no problems at all. MUCH easier than getting it from underneath.

I'm going to see about making it up there. May bring the wagon and run it, may bring an XT and ride shotgun with somebody. Just depends on the condition of my vehicles at the time.

Heartless... when Skip uses "Da Bomb", they DON'T see the car. I'm not sure of the hardware used, but it basically has a little tank with some ATF mixed with water in it. It gets fed into the intake via some sort of pump. Tap the button 3 or 4 times, and POOOOOOOF!! Big cloud of stinky smoke comes out the tailpipe.

If the dist is turned all the way and it still pings, it's probably off one tooth. Try to pull it out and move it one tooth toward the direction it was tilted, then play with it. I bet that'll get it timed properly.

I'd suggest using 2WD sedan/coupe/XT components. I know that the rear shocks are longer on ALL wagons, and I tried using 4WD struts on the front of my XT and the strut assembly itself was longer. Was a royal pain in the butt to put in, and the car looked really silly sitting high. Your air suspension works, doesnt it? Up here we say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

The dash is made of this new stuff, I forget the name, it's like plastic, only not. Going from top to bottom, left to right- First is a radar detector Below that is a scanner Below that is a digital thermometer, showing coolant temp/oil temp To the right of that is a compass Then the clock Next to the clock is an altimeter Then there are the 4 switches and lights... The first light is wired to the thermoswitch, it comes on when the switch tells the electric fan to come on. The second light is the MAJOR OVERHEAT light. This one means BIG BIG PROBLEMS. Hasn't ever been triggered. Third light is the boost light, works just like the turbo light on the dash. Fourth light is the big boost light, comes on above 8psi when the extra fuel injector kicks in. The first switch turns the rad fan on and off. Second and third switches, I forgot what they do. Fourth switch toggles the thermometer between oil and coolant temp. To the right of the switches and lights is an extra cigarrette ligher, currently has a map light in it. Up on the corner of the windsheild (and sometimes above the compass) is a G-Tech Pro. Below the stereo is an EQ/amp. Next to it is the control for the CD changer. Next to that is el telephono. The gauges below the stereo aren't hooked up. To the left of the blower fan control are 2 switches. The blue one isn't hooked up. The round one controls Da Bomb® anti-tailgating system. On the pillar pods are an A/F ratio gauge and a boost gauge. Hope that answered your question.

Very cool. Wait till I upload the night shot I took of it while you were tire hunting. And you added a cell phone holder- who'd 'a thunk it.