TROGDOR!

Forgot to add, the car has a new PCV as well. The lines are all oil-free now, it doesn't seem to be sucking any more oil in. It's running nice and cool and isn't losing any coolant. It's leaking some oil from the valve cover gaskets, but the consumption hasn't increased at all in the 8 months that I've had the car- and this stuff only started a little while ago. I have no oil smoke at all- not even when the car is sputtering, and not even after a hard start after a week of sitting. I haven't compression tested the engine, but as far as I can tell it's solid. With the problems going around hard rights, it really seems like a fuel delivery problem- the engine just seems like it isn't getting any gas. Wish I had an A/F gauge to prove it with. What do you suggest checking in the EGR?

Hey guys, me being the youngin that I am, I don't have much experience working on carbs at all. I'm about to dig into the one on my 87 wagon, it's got some issues such as: -Won't idle when cold -Idles at 1500rpm with A/C off -Idles at 500rpm with A/C on -Rough/lopey idle -Sputters/dies going around hard rights -Crappy gas mileage (13mpg city) The fuel supply problem going around hard right turns is the most interesting thing. The car will shake and sputter if I have my foot on the gas, if I take my foot off the gas it often dies. It will also die if I push the clutch in while coasting around a turn. Sometimes the reading on the tach will stay stable, but I can put my foot into the floor and have nothing happen- then suddenly the car will make a HUGE backfire and belch out some black smoke. This is the only time it smokes- all the rest of the time you can't see a thing coming out the tailpipe. The idle is really rough as well, it almost feels like it's not running on all cylinders at idle. But as soon as I put any pressure on the gas at all it starts running smoothly again. When I first start the car it won't idle at all, then a few minutes later it will drop almost to zero RPM, the warning lights will come on, then it will rev up to about 1500 RPM, then drop again, then almost die, then rev again- it just keeps repeating that cycle. Once the engine is warm the idle is stable, just very rough. I was thinking the problem while going around turns could be the carb float. Could that be it? Could the float be causing those other problems as well? Or is this carb just a basket case? I would just throw a Weber on, but cash is severely limited right now. Aside from the carb the car is tuned properly- new filters, new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires; timing is set properly, etc. When I changed the plugs 2 weeks ago the #3 and #4 looked blackened from running rich, and the #1 and #2 showed normal use.

So wait a minute here... XT rear shocks are LONGER than RX rears? Is that something specific to the RX or just the 3-door? I want to get the back of my XT down a little bit (already got the front down with 2WD struts) So if I put on RX (or 3-door) rear shocks, it should bring the back down a little?

Nuts! Really wish we coulda made it. Me and the Skipster had some problems in CT picking up the Panzer and were stopped dead in our tracks until early saturday afternoon. There's no way we could've made it to BS before 8PM. I'll tell more of the story when I have more energy. Looks like a lot of fun, sorry we couldn't make it.

All right, I'll bring the reg. The title is long gone, the DMV devoured it over a month ago.

Well, let me figure out how I'm going to get these seats to me, and I'll make an offer. Can you do me a favor and ask around about shipping costs of a couple of big heavy boxes to Morgantown, WV? I know shipping from the US to Canada costs a LOT. Hopefully it's not the same from Canada to the US. If it is too expensive, hopefully someone from the US wouldn't mind picking up the seats for me when they're in the area. How far from the border do you live?

The trans does not HAVE to be from a turbo EA82. It just makes the job a little simpler. If you get ANY trans from a nonturbo to do this job, you'll have to change the rear differential along with the tranny. That's the only extra work required for a nonturbo. Since the car is an automatic, the axles will mate up to any nonturbo transmission. If you get a manual transmission out of a turbo car, you'll need to replace the front axles but not the rear differential.

Wow... what a sad sad end for such a nice car How are the seats? Any stains/tears? If they're blue, I WANT THOSE SEATS!! We'll find a way to get them, the only thing I'm worried about is paying crazy amounts of cash to get them across the border. Anyone know anything about shipping seats across the continent from Canada? Or, if Miles ever gets his TrashWagon back anytime soon, we could ship them out to wherever the wagon is, and if he's feeling generous, I could just pick them up in person in Indiana. I really REALLY want blue 87.5 seats for my turbo!

Damn, I really wish they had prices on there. They're based in Germany- if I only knew what they cost and if I could afford them I could have my uncle in Kaiserslautern pick them up and hold them in his garage, then next time I visit over there I could bring them back with me and save a mint on shipping. Hmmmmm... that gives me some ideas....

If you feel like making the drive, there's 2 XT6 in the yards here in western PA with engines in them. As for the engine condition....? Good source of parts though.

Very nice... I'll be wanting one of those when I get my EA82T done. You bend and weld that yourself or just bring the specs to an exhaust shop and have them do it?

After I had a small piece of metal fall in my eye and scratch my cornea when working on my XT, I always wear goggles when getting my face close to the car. Prescription eye drops for a week fixed me last time, but next time it might be a big piece of metal that costs me my eye. Be careful people!!

The light that came on probably said "Stop Lamp". It means a taillight bulb is burnt out. Did you happen to put your foot on the brake at the same time you punched the headlight button? Maybe the excess electrical demand make a taillight stop working for a second. The only red light that should come on is one on the dash that only lights up while the headlights are raising or lowering. If one of them gets stuck this light will stay on letting you know there's a problem.

I have a tape deck above the radio. They're screwed into the same brackets. Can't see any method of getting to the screws that hold it into the dash. Any other tips?

Swapped the radiator on the XT DL today. It was, uh, due for a replacement. Here's a pic of the old "radiator" Even with the radiator this far gone, the car still didn't overheat! It ran pretty warm, but never went much more than 3/4 of the way up the gauge. With a good rad in, it now stays at about 1/3. Anyone got one that beats this?

Anyone?

If I remember right, E Zap used to have one. There was also one that someone drove to the parts store I used to work at once.

How in the holy hell do you get the radio out of an XT? I can't find a single screw or clip anywhere. I managed to get the left side of the big panel with the vents in it started, but that's about it. I ended up cracking the panel a little bit and then called it quits. From what I can see the center dash panel has to come off to get the radio out, but the radio has to come out to get that panel off. How in the world do you get this thing apart??

Just to clear things up... They used EA71 engines in EA82 bodies in some places outside North America. There actually WAS a turbo hatch. They're just incredibly rare.

Yeah, XT's are great. I bought a turbo XT this summer, and it's been down for repairs for quite a while. I ended up buying a nonturbo XT to use as a daily driver just because I hate to see one waste away. Now I'm hooked on the things. I just ordered a model XT on Ebay, hoping to put it together this weekend.

Ahhh... I always assumed the big one was the main one. So it's an A/C thing then, eh? Well, I went ahead and stuck a fan on anyway. When it comes to Subaru engines it seems that any extra cooling accessories do nothing but good. Oh, and both my Nissans that I had were transverse engines- and they each had TWO electric fans.

So, as you know, I just picked up an XT DL. The car had no main cooling fan in it, but still seemed to run OK as long as I didnt leave it sitting still for too long. Aux fan works fine. Got a fan ready to go, went to put it in, and lo and behold the car seems to never have been equipped with a fan at all. The mounting nuts were still factory installed, and they were holding a metal plate that covered the end of the water pump pulley. The mounting holes for the fan shroud also appeared to never have been used. WTH!!?? :cornfuzz: :cornfuzz: Seems this car was never equipped with a main cooling fan!! WHY!!? HOW!!?? Anyone ever heard of this? Seems like a really dumb thing to do! A stripped down model should still have a complete cooling system!

That's about what my dad said when he saw my XT. Actually it was more of a "What the hell is THAT!?" :brolleye:

It has 2 flat boards covered with vinyl, one for the back and one for the base, making a kind of cargo shelf. It looks like crap.

Let's see here... things a DL does NOT have: -4WD -Power windows -Power mirrors -Power locks -Air conditioning -A BACK SEAT -A passenger side mirror -Air suspension -Rear speakers -Tape deck -Height adjustable drivers seat -Lumbar adjustment on drivers seat -Upholstered door panels -Vanity mirrors -Locking glove box -Telescopic steering wheel I think that's about it. For a Subaru DL it's pretty loaded though. It has: -Reading lights -Tilt wheel -Full set of gauges -Power steering -Intermittent wipers All things that my old DL station wagon didn't have.