1-3-2-4

LMAO I bet they were like I thought a WRX should only sound like that? what the hell.. I did not know Subaru made anything else but a WRX!?!?!? lol

I have the same year and same 5 MT like you first of all the car will not run at 100 RPMS and it's possible it will run on 500 rpms albeit roughly. It sounds like what you are saying is you are trying to get rid of the CEL but unhooking the battery cable for 48 hours (unneeded) is doing no good... How about you check what is causing the code? I invested in a code reading that shows a description of the code and meaning best $65 I've spent.

sounds good!

My car is a manual

Exedy all the way.. btw check the prices on amazon I found them (at least for my year) to be the cheapest out of all the other online stores.. ($124 vs $168) For the kit.

gotta get these installed now

I found my pictures.. the LED driven at 1A LED and Stock I think this was still 1A and not 3A in this shot heatsink here the LED's are out and just driven at 1A

I had a hissing noise at the gasket.. Engine sees all that extra air coming in after the air was metered from the MAF.. Idle is no longer lumpy at idle.. Too much to explain if you were not driving the car.

I retro fitted a SSC P7 for my reverse lights for my JDM tail lights but I have yet to install it yet Only because I had issues with the LED driver.. these things suck up about 3 A but they give out about 900 lm per LED.. I have pictures around someplace before everything went in the car.. Thats something I should do.. Oh also you need heatsinks because they get hot quick and too hot they start to dim then later fail.

changed my intake manifold gaskets as well as changed my sparkplug wires to something better then no name. the whole powerband is much smoother now.

Wow dunno if it was the gasket or wires or both but my whole power band is so much smoother!

Funny thing was like 2 months ago I removed it and cleaned it out with carb cleaner. and boy was it dirty... and that was the 2nd time I took it off.. the first time it was so caked up I had to use a screwdriver to push the stuff out :-/ man with the way the weather was today if I pull the motor in dec it's going to be rough :-\

on that link it would be 11821AA450 right? I'm going to try putting it back on while it's still a little light out.. plus it's getting colder out... I know without that part the car would run like poo and spit stuff out all over the place.. I'm more looking to see if that hesitation is gone now. And on that link the Hose labeled #9.. Mine is as stiff as a rock.. I guess the new one has a little bit more flex but this one is solid I know it's because it's old and all.

replaced the wires... Here is what plug #4 looked like once I was able to pull it out of the boot.

Oh man after like 2 hours of working (had to come inside pretty windy) I finally got the gaskets on.. I would of waited when I had the motor out... besides that all was fine until this plastic piece broke because of the temps.. it's that plastic part that the hose from the block that branches off for hoses from the PCV and intake hose.. I hope superglue can hold it for the time being it's bad enough that rubber hose that got hard and got a crack in it sent I would guess wet blow by gases all over near the back of the motor. some pics and the broken part. superglue with loctite gel btw this stuff is way better then the superglue brand.

the bolt to remove the pump is inside the PS tank right? The block side looks clean but unsure about the manifold side.. And I think removing the whole intake manifold from the car I would need to remove like at least 10 other things? it's frken cold outside right now with blowing wind in the low 40's btw I was just going to remove I guess it's the output hose from the PS pump it's the one with the rubber hose between the two hard lines.

What's the easy way of getting to the gasket? I'm trying not to remove as many peices but I can't lift it up high enough to replace the gaskets. On the passenger side it seems like the PS pump lines get in the way which prevents it from lifting any higher then 1/4 from the block.. The drivers side lifts a bit higher but I'm trying to get the passenger side done first.

Did you check the fuel pressure?

check the vac hose to the idle air controller.. Out of all my work I sometimes forget that hose slips off when lifting the air box.. it will die within 5 seconds of starting

Hmm do I work on the car today or not (my birthday) Oh why the hell not! Haha sweet my order that got split up with rockauto is all going to come at the same time today new plug wires, Intake manafold gasket and right front strut. If I'd a spring compressor I would of did the struts today.. trust me.. stock struts at 232,000 are downright scary! Anyways I will do the gasket and wires today and report back any findings

yeah these cheap wires on now I gotta keep moving them away from the injector wires, the wire it's self is very think so it keeps flopping back.

it's a owon PDS5022S It does have that feature but it was so dark out I just wanted to get a quick reading.. heck I only checked out one injector before disconnecting everything.

my battery was low on the phone so no flash but you can at least see the waveform. it seems to be reacting in a decent manner

So thats what that "whiny" sound is when I clutch in is?

And in the event that does not work you can remove it and spray a whole can of carb cleaner in the IAC That cured my idle dip on a warm engine.. No more Start > 1,000> 400>1000> 650 rpms now when warm Might of been overkill... If do remove the IAC remember to get a new gasket!