1-3-2-4

I've been noticing something here my car cranking is taking a lot longer then normal it sounds almost like a flooded engine but the idle is fine... but say I'm rolling in 2nd gear at like 25-30 mph and give it more throttle the car hesitates but once it clears the 2-3K range it's fine.. sometimes the car starts fine when off for awhile and sometimes it's the same longer start time.. NOW before you say replace the ECTS I replaced that about 2-3 months ago but that was not the issue (glad I kept the old one) What else could it be? I have no CEL or anything.

haha so what does glossy black with clear bring? extra shine? hahah I might still do glossy black since I already picked the can up.

Trying to think flat black with clear coat or glossy black wth clear coat

NOT FINAL JUST A TEST!! I was unable to get anyone to PS black on the wheels out of the 4 sites I posted on so I decided to use my left over flat black kylon spray paint with a single coat on and took the masking tape. you can see a before and after and two after shots after the test paint. before... After... What do you think of it?

Did you cut them off?

he lives in MA that's like one of the strictest states on the east coast as far as inspections go.

crap it's getting worst now... this is new.. I stopped in advance auto to see how much aircraft stripper was (overpriced) and it all took me like 2 min in the store.. I came back out and started the car and it took like 3 seconds to start the car... Went to the food store after the auto store and same.. However when I got home I turned the car off and waited 5 seconds then started it back up again and no delay between starting and cranking. but the funny thing is it idles normal when it runs

I need to do my cam seals between the two and the real separator plate leaking I need to add some oil about every week but not a qt worth.

Haha

Yeah listen to this guy.. I've been without A/C for almost a year and a hate when it rains it's a pain to try and defrost the window with just heat alone and no A/C I can't tell if I have a bad A/C compressor I wont know until i fix the bad pipe between the dyer and evap.

I've never had mine ice over.. I'm sure you know what the job of the condenser is.. they do make a tool that will straighten out the fins on the condenser.

well no misfires.. but good thing I checked the plugs.. it seems like spark plug for #4 was backing out which would explain the gases.. However I did not really smell any gas so I will still end up pulling the fuel rails.. only reason I did not today was I was not sure if the smaller oring had any effect and not having any on hand I did not want fuel all over.. finally got to peer in my cylinders nice to see I still have my crosshatches

I always thought that part was reinforced.. I guess I learned the hard way..

the light still says on because the fault is still in the system as soon as the code is cleared.

F this.. I went to pull the spark plug wires.. and I got to the last one for plug 4 and the damn part that plugs onto the spark plug ripped right out of the spark plug boot.. and I'm pretty sure that's not repairable until Friday... having said that the boot for cyl 4 was the darkest but I never got to pull the plug because of what happened.

Im shocked I never got hung up on anything but I know sure as hell I was not climbing that hill like neo lol the biggest issue was my damn finder liners came off... but perhaps that had to do with me removing the little push pins.. they all broke so I never put them back in..

Ok that sounds simple

I need a DIY project plus I wont be starting right away. i tried to change the wheel color in photoshop but I could not get the inner part dark enough.

Dont go by what a website says.. it's better to go by what the FSM says.. Subaru made your car not A1 Cardone.

ah sniffing the hole I guess removing the plugs can't be bad.. I replaced them about 10K miles ago.

correct me if im wrong but how will I be able to see if it's leaking from just pulling the plug? I'm not talking about a waterfall leak.

question can the fuel rail be lifted out with the injectors still in to check for leaks? also it seems grey tops were for the CA emissions and red for everyplace else?

So you can still make it home

Limp starts at 3k