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Anyone the part number that gets all rusty because of the snow? I meant to write down the part number from whatever thread I saw it in before.

the problem also is Diesel is costing more then premium gas.. I passed a station here where diesel was $3.25 and premium was $3.10

Hmm so I wonder what's the best way to patch it?

Address?

I remembered to feel for this morning and sure enought it crumbled.. Wont that cause rust on the inside panel?

I looked at my mount this morning while getting air and they look fine

well I might need those mounts anyways

well I hope they wont bend.. I'm not sure how much $$$$ is but if it's over $200 that's nuts.

oh I was looking at the boxer4racing site.\ However it seems the car would benefit more with a larger rear swaybar more then the front. I think when everything is done I will do the rear first. I think I saw on the LegacyGT link that something is prone to breaking when installing a larger bar?

So for a 95 legacy L wagon stock Front: 19mm Rear: 15mm I don't see any aftermarket front swaybars

did you spray that flat black?

turn in feels a little sharper but only when going to the right I have my money bet on excessive toe out as well as for the rear camber bolts the rears don't have a alignment mark as for the rear and front sway bar I was going to buy a adjustable one soon but what is the stock for the 95 Legacy.. a little more overstear would be nice since the car always wants to push under more throttle. If I shift the weight of the car I can get it to oversteer.

haha cool picture I took at a dealership

and one last thing lol rt 206, Rangers Station, in Atsion, NJ?

haha the people running here both I could care less.. broken promises.. the driver's tire is underflated about 2 months ago (yes 2!) something must of caused a slow leak I did not know until I got on the highway the car's steering felt dead. Not only was my stock jack broke but I just got on an on-ramp so I was unable to back up and turn around because its in a blind turn. So I had to creep on the highway at 10 mph or less (cars honking in the first lane and hi-beaming me) to the first exit to see if I could get air in it. It holds but about every 12 hours it starts to deflate to around 23 psi.. Now as to why I did not put my spare on? Because I don't want it to get chewed up like the front's are now Because my spare was unused. Now as to why I did not get new tires yet? At the time it was still summer and I plan on have the wheels on the car now dedicated snow tires so I did not want to run them to early but I will be buying them now before everyone goes nuts at the first snowfall and the prices jump up $20-40 and besides the front tires are just at the wear bars now.. last year it was downright scary in the snow on the highway combined with a car that is very bouncy on the smallest bump I said to myself if it's not changed before first snowfall I'm not driving this like like that. I have to get this done because it's eating my gas mileage up like crazy

haha I think from the past events everyone met at the Rangers station?

I will know for sure on Thursday so right now it's a maybe what time did everyone leave from the last one? I gotta be in Bridgeport at 6:30 pm going to be a tight day but I've always wanted to go.

a few quick shots before going out to vote Passenger side Driver's side Not really great images to describe because they don't really show the wear on the inside all that well.

A friend is asking me about this.. I haven't seen the issue yet but he tells me his drivers side headlight is not working.. He says it looks like the headlight socket is burned looking.. I asked him if he switched headlight bulbs to see if it was the bulb (never got a straight answer) Anyways he was asking me if I could replace the connector part that plugs into the bulb. I think the 2002 Forester used H4 bulbs? First I have to see if voltage is getting to the socket but like I said to him the wires just don't look burned for no reason at all. hmm seems like this is a common issue for the 2002 forester

i got wear on both inside and outside on both fronts.. I will take a picture when I get home. Now for the tie rods at first I only did the drivers side and the wheel still tracked fine however when I later did the passenger side thats when I had a problem to go forward stright I need to turn the wheel about 20 degrees to the left and if you try and center it, it will want to go to the left.. I thought it was pointless to get the alinement done because im doing the springs and struts next week.

is it possible that the camber can go out of adjustment? Only thing I've done was replace the inner/outer tie rods and the lower ball joints. and yes the inside edge of the tie I'm talking about. middle of the tire seems fine and outer is because of my cornering skills Do the rear's have camber bolts? I forgot the last time I had the rear wheels off because my replacement rear struts don't have the little mark on them.

Im getting my alignment done in a few weeks but what would be the cause of excessive wear on the inside front tires? I don't want to do all that until I have the other strusts for the fronts.. having said that do the rear stock struts have a camber bolt? the struts I have now are BYB-GR2

was it prewired?? I have no map light at all.. must be an outback thing

lol just checked nationwide and I'd save $10 over geico..

how is the fabric held down?