1-3-2-4

Did my clutch cable yesterday

Back on the road but question how close to the floor should the clutch engage? Right now it's about an inch from the floor.. And it feels super light right now pressing to the floor I went by the fsm for adjustment

Mine broke at 230,136

Are you talking about the clutch cable or the HH cable? I think the FSM goes over this? The way the old cable was routed seems like it's factory.. I don't know is the new cable going to be as stiff as this old one? One part I forgot to check before everything broke is the hardware that attaches to the shift fork in which order does that go? And that hill holder cable I think the bolt should go in the middle part of that pin, no?

impossible.. I don't know where you live but the time I would of droved home it would be rush hour traffic over the George Washington bridge.. At the time I was stuck i was a little over 30 miles from home and with traffic it would of been like 2 1/2 hours of stop and go

Some more snaps I took

I think the hardware for the hill holder is missing the cable I got is after market

I don't know it's always felt heavy to me since I got it and it will be 2 years in march. I took some pictures also the hill holder cable it has always been disconnected since I got the car (I can start on hills) but it has like this 3 inch long threaded bolt that's just hanging and that's one more then that could cause ratting later on.

I was reading that before a cable break the clutch gets heavy to press? I don't know if this is the original cable? Would that be likely at 230,100 miles?

I'm just going to get a new cable only $23 anyways.. i hope it's not a pain to adjust it.

Man as soon as I said all that on my phone the battery died.. I had the car towed home (AAA + came in handy) the cable snapped and the hardware that I think that hold it on the fork came off I don't know if the new cable comes with that or not.. It happened at a bad time.. Cell phone was just about dead and I was in Ridgewood, NJ.. tow truck guy was like what the hell brings you out here??

Im stuck in nj right now.. Waiting for the tow how hard is it to replace?

hmm now looking at it more painting should be done 8-16 inches away? I wonder if building a box from 2 inch PVC piping might be better? and I think cheaper? only thing is not real sure how to anchor it. As it being square I wonder how much of a load it can support..

finally hit the 230,000 mark coming back from VA 95 Legacy wagon

I'm not going for high power just a sub amp and X4 audio amp. Only reason I have yet to start is because I have no rear cover for the cargo area... need to keep the eyes out

Does anyone know where I can find piggyback quick connects local? I need it in 1/4" I've tried auto zone and advance auto and harbor Freight but I still can't seem to find them.. I can online however.

The tee that came with the kit does not fit the fpr doing the test without it is not ideal but it seemed to be normal I need to find a smaller hose

In your last post you said there is also the pcv. A question I have is the port for the fpr is it for all cylinders?

Direct from japan cost me a decent price but worth it over stock.and I did convert it to LHD

I should of taken care of it months ago.. I tested the alternator on dc and ac and both tested good.

Looks like I should do the spark plug test instead? The pvc should work too right? I think mine is due for a replacement soon

here you go the only lines I see is were the brake booster and the FPR

Does the FSM shows where various ports are? From my understanding it should be as close and to the center as possible but haynes just shows it connected to the intake port for cyl #3

I just came from outside.. my hose is a little too big in the I/D but I took the hose off on the L shaped vacuum hose just after the T/B and I got no reading until I revved the engine.. if I did the hose where the FPR was I got a good reading. Maybe I used the wrong location?

I wonder why it does that.. maybe when the car cools the suction on the upper hose causes it? I'd have to see the clamp maybe the old motor mounts would of caused the hose to move?