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Hmm the more I look at this it seems like it's the backlash of the front diff.. I've watched a few youtube videos and it only happens in gear when everything is loaded. just coasting in gear going over a bump in the road is enough to cause the sound but wont do it in neutral. 2nd thing thing is how does the backlash get out of spec anyways?

How much of a lift do you need to clear the transmission from the car? It seems like a hassle.

damn.. lol I forgot about that site.. I was looking on here http://opposedforces.com/ but yeah that's it.

I just don't like my exposed timing belt and when I go off road I don't want to have to worry about an idler about to fail.. Besides I'm going to need a few other things like the side molding for the door and all for when I do paint the car. Only thing is I can't seem to find a part number for the spolier

I did not get a paycheck last week because I just came back from my week off it sucked lol I need to start buying engine related parts now like my clutch and TB covers lol the bolts all cracked the plastic on the first turn.. and I gotta replace the two cam seals and the oil separator plate this engine is leaking like mad. I want to have the engine done by end of Nov along with all new struts.. by that time I should be getting a bit more hours

Cleaned my IAC on Saturday and now no more up and down idle idle as soon as you start the car.

I don't think the summer wheels will be showing off on the car this year between gas and bills and paying the IRS it's smarter to buy my winter tires now

I cleaned it and it helped my bouncing idle at warm up as seen here in youtube. Aug 28th 2009 Sept 24th 2010 Fuel pressure

friken finally this site is back! and wow it looks good~!

Not to pick on you but show me another subaru that does the same. the fact that it goes away on it's own within 30 seconds of running makes me think it's pressure related or IAC related. the MAF sensor not too sure.. I'd have to check that today as well..

the funny thing is I have no code and no high idle like everyone else seems to get.. I will do a fuel pressure test when the motor is cold and when it stumbles when giving it large amounts of throttle in the first 20 seconds of being started I will note the fuel pressure with the video camera.

I had this issue with semi-metallic pads.. I changed over to ceramics and I've driven about 2K on the pads so far and it has not came back. like you said it makes it feel just like a warped rotor but it's not just the pad stuff sticking to the rotor.

yeah I did not have the gaskets at the time and the dealer was closed so I did not remove it at the time. Another thing is I want to test my fuel pressure.. maybe it's some weird thing with low fuel pressure as the system slowly goes down in pressure? Does the 95 Legacy have a fuel pressure test port? Or do I have to disconnect the fuel hose between the fuel pump and fuel filter? What pressures should I be seeing at idle?

Can they fail half way? I always thought it was it's working or it's not.. Going to try and check the fuel pressure tomorrow which I think goes between the inlet from the fuel pump to the fuel filter right?

I cleaned the throttle body out less then 3K miles ago.. How can the TPS be bad but work fine once the car finally clears 2K and works for the rest of the time the car is on? I have no codes or any pending codes.

it's starting to get a little colder in the mornings.. but here is a quick run down what happens.. on a cold motor I leave for work at 4 AM.. anyways starting up the car and waiting 15-20 seconds I back out of my spot and you can hear the car runs rough when under light throttle and maybe a little so for another 20 seconds then after you near 2K it opens up and it's fine until it cools down again.. Anyways it seems to get worst as it gets colder.. the things I have done so far.. replaced spark plugs replaced CTS poured seafoam on the tube that leads to the IAC 5 months ago Here is a video I just did.. you may need to run full screen to see the tach.. I should of turned on the lights since I changed to white LED gauges. anyways I stalled at first because the engine was not coming up to speed to how far my foot was pressed down.. when I move forward I tell you where my foot was. it's puzzling I was going to try again with the MAF unplugged to see if I got the same issues as if the car was cold. here is the youtube video.

when I did mine I used the sun (I was down south) and my credit card. goo gone might get the rest off.

hmm one person said could be the idle air control valve but I used seafoam on that before and it really did not help all that much..

Glad the outcome is looking better now it's really not hard to replace the struts at all I would of never dreamed of trading in a car just because of the struts.

Thanks I can't wait to do my endlinks

When my time comes I'm going to see if I can get a print out.

I forgot to check to see how many miles were on the car but the wear was very little.. I still find it amazing that both outer boots are ok. I did tell him about that passenger side balljoint that started to ooze out.. i wished my car looked as clean as his did, hardly in rust This makes me want to do my own axles now but get them from MWE lol they want me to check out that black Nissan in the background that thing must have howling wheel bearings no way can the car me that loud driving at 20 MPH.. it's like a wurrling sound but not high in pitch but goes faster as you go faster.. I'm not too sure about FWD transaxles and Nissans all that much but I don't think it could be the transmission? It's got like 158K on it.

I know I replaced the CTS but I did not want to make another tread.. but as you know I said how the car kinda runs rough for like the first 20-30 seconds after a cold start or sitting for like an hour or so.. Well after moving my car out of a friend's driveway and checking out another car I got back into my car and I had to quicky jump in and pull off. I almost never do this by pulling off right away and never when it does that rough running when you give it gas. Anyways I went to pull off and I had such a hard time getting over 2,000 rpms and after it did the car "opened up" I can't think what on earth this is... I'm not sure what temp the oxygen sensor goes back into Open or closed loop but I was thinking of installing a A/F wideband just to see if it's running rich during that time. It seems like the colder it seems to get the rougher it will run if giving it gas after started but it goes always always after a few seconds. today would of been a perfect time to have a damn camera mounted in the car...

wow they gave you a print out? Do all emission places do that? I'm due next year (every 2 years) I failed the first time because of the gas cap but other then that I passed on everything else.

Pictures Before I took out anything