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yeah I was looking at that question I'm not totally sure what my car runs stock (95 Legacy L wagon) you get a handful of understeer in the wet and giving it a little gas gets you nowhere.

I would keep the whole strut assembly as one would the forester struts provide more lift then an outback?

Yep I got that all worked out I purged them again day before yesterday as they have been in the closet upright since I got them. I also cut the notch in the side with my air cutter for the brake line the day I got them. I was asking a few months ago making sure like 4 times to make sure WRX lowering springs would work with my tophats. Since I'm going to go a good deal lower When I want to have some offroad fun I was thinking would it be a hassle to keep Outback struts on hand when I want to raise the car?

brake bleeder screw is 10 mm x 1.0 thread? Seems about what I remember will be nice to pain the calipers plus bleed the brakes at the same time.

They have green painted cups so since I've never removed the boot before how would the replacement go on anyways? Is it a hassle to get it local or should I do rockauto? If I'm right the inner is held in by a single dowel pin? and the outer but the axle nut with the depression?

I was and still thinking about getting a adjustable sway bar when I buy my endlink upgrades.

A friend from work his wife has a 2001 Forester he called me to tell me that the CV joint boots where open.. So today I stopped by and took a look and the interesting thing was both inner boots were ripped open and the grease flung around and out. I thought that was odd because I know about the side with the cat and heat.. Anyways no sounds yet.. I'm guessing because the grease has flung out it's no good anymore and the whole axle needs to be replaced?

Oh to bleeding the brakes I did a DIY brake bleeder and I will test it out soon as I figure out what size the rear bleeder screws are.. I think it's M1x1.00 or something weird like that I know I seen it in the FSM manual.. having said that I will call this DIY brake power bleeder V1 I wont know how it works out until it's on and pressurized.. I had it up to 19 PSI with my finger on the barb and no leaks at the fittings but we will have to see at the cap and the oring at the top. Also a little blood was shed with my 1/2" bit catching my middle finger. I also was going to take out the rubber air bladder but that would of been a mistake since that keeps it sealed and I know for sure I would of had leaks without it. I also think I will cut the clear hose since that's 20' of hose which is too much.

Yeah old bumpers I've always seen were like a brownish color when old.. I guess Subaru back in those days got a good deal on red and yes I understand about how a strut works but given my left rear has pretty much leaked out all it's oil should I expect it to retract on it's own when I take the spring off? last year driving in snow was horrid hitting a snow rut was a hellish ride and not great A/S tires did not help that matter

really they can change color? that's new to me.. I wonder can a strut be so blown after you remove it and the spring will the strut collapse? The left rear I know is gone any body movement and it makes this slight sound I wont take that on until next month because I wanted to get the lowering springs and the front struts at the same time along with new bellows and bumpers. Question is how will I retain the toe aliment after removing and replacing? are the marks on the bolt?

nice!

That's the steering rack the CV joints are at 0:25

I don't have any whine but I might run into the same as you it may not make the sound without a load on the car.. it would almost be like trying to make the sound happen while coasting in neutral. I have no clue how old the CV joints are in the front since I only got the car last year.. but the passenger side looks to be a reman (if anyone looked at the 2nd youtube video) it has the marking 1334 or whatever on it.. the play in the video I don't know if that much play in the CV was normal..

yeah I just have to get another pair of jack stands

A person suggested that I put the car up on jack stands and drive with it in gear and have someone look under the car while in gear.. it would be a bit hard since no one in my family likes manuals so not sure how that will work out. I know I would really be able to pinpoint where it comes from then.

haha yeah hmm the strut says Subaru Sun something.. some weird name I had not planned on reusing the boot or the bumper And the rotors they have only been on the car for about 2 weeks

the carrier bearing is what the CV axle stubs stick into right? I did a video might make things a little clearer I should of mounted the camera on the seat before I started shooting.. Here is one video with a short little drive And this other one is me checking under the car and moving things

man I must of been high off of all that PB blaster because I dunno what the hell I saw that night that looked like rust

So what are you saying I should grab and shake? I will be taking my video camera with me this time. And to answer your question no I haven't inspected the carrier bearing.

My PS pump leaks from this area too what size is the oring anyways since I have a bunch of spare rings.

did your clunk sound when you did sharp quick movements left or right?

I have a steering shimmy but I can't tell if it's a not balanced wheel or something else.

too bad you are not closer to hear it in person it's much deeper in person then the recording (I took out all the road rumbling sound) To be the throttle plate. I'm going to check something else in question wondering if the steering rack could be causing it if that's possible.

Nice! 73, KB1QXO http://aprs.fi/?call=a%2FKB1QXO-9

a person thinks it could be a motor or tranny mount? I think it would be impossible to shift those things by hand while the car is not moving.