1-3-2-4

in the back of the trunk just had to open early to look.. in direct view it kinda all looks one color.. but then again the wheel was pointed upwards.. My box at work

I can't tell you if they are aftermarket or not since it was like this when I picked it up. I think the play in the passenger side balljoint might be the issue of the steering shake but not sure if it's the clunk.. will find out today.. Also you know on the front swaybar how on the endlink you have a adjustment bolt well I do think i turned the wrong one does that bolt with the hash marks effect the alignment or the swaybar?

Question how many wheels in a box does tire track do? My supervisor and I can't figure out why it says package 2 of 3 but single package is 46 lbs

funny I just went out to the car to check my fluid levels (night owl) and I went to the passenger side and it has almost the same play in it.. I will have to get a video when it's day.

So a bad CV joint then? the inner is held in by a dowel pin right?

Well we will see what happens in the morning because of right now a hand rachet is not going to remove rusted stuck on caliper bolts.. and the impact is too fat to fit in it.. the best I can do is get half the socket on.. if I really have to I'm going to have to remove the rear sway bar.

wow the LGT bumper on the outback looks pretty slick!

I noticed when doing work on the car and inspecting the boots I touched the inner CV joint with the front end lifted and I hear that same clunk when I'm on/off throttle. Anyways to get to the point it has play in the inner CV joint that connects to the stub axle has some play in it but not the passenger side CV. bad CV joint?

odd.. I've taken a nap in my Legacy and almost 2 hours lady my Alpine headunit (CDE-9856) was still playing and no dead battery.

I understand I see that setup garage is going to be on sale However I noticed the size of it.. 16 ft. 9" L x 8 ft. 10" W x 7 ft. 1/2" H that would be a tight squeeze with the wagon in it, no?

I tried.. I might have to take out the rear swaybar because that's what's blocking be from getting to the lower caliper bolts.. Ideally I would use my impact

I don't think it will stick out as much now as when the car is painted black plus the wheel design I don't think will show too much caliper.. I'd have to check on Monday. I did buy a wire brush set from harbor freight today http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-wire-wheel-and-cup-brush-set-1341.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SILVER-CALIPER-PAINT-KIT-W-Ceramic-High-Performance-/400122546748?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d29298a3c

Hmmm.. silver... not as flashy

they went nuts here salting last year I think they did so and also tore the roads up with the plow trucks because they knew they would be getting money from the government to repave a lot of roads here

I don't think that can stand the heat of a caliper.. a wheel yes but anything over 200F it's giving warnings.

Oh I dunno.. I hear the rustolium stuff flakes off.

you mean silver? I'm trying to picture how that would look

Does anyone know what the stock front and rear sway bars are for the 95 Legacy L Wagon? looking to upgrade.. and I'f I'm right the larger the more oversteer? I'd need to change out all the bushings when I do change sway bars. Is it 19mm front and 15 mm rear?

test fit on Monday just minus the tires so just picture it with tires mounted lol

Nice and no gloves too! What size did the snowflakes come in anyways?

bah I returned that Husky tool and went and picked up the 1/2" harbor Freight air ratchet. So I'm having an issue trying to get to the rear caliper bolts on the rear rotors the impact body is too big.. the issue is the end links and the rear sway are in the way of the lower bolt and I forget what's in the way of the upper.. I don't know if a U-joint would work on this area It's soo close

ordered new wheels for my car finally.... lol everyone keeps saying the car looks too much like a family car. sadly it seems like it was cheaper for me to buy brand new wheels then to find some from a 2002 WRX.. but now that I brought them I'm sure everyone will come out of the woodwork saying they have 02 wrx wheels for sell.. Happy with the color I picked should match well. Was going to do the rest of my brakes but i got sidetracked yesterday and tomorrow is not going to be any better.

I guess you are talking to be since I was the last post.. but yeah I have this Husky tool and yes it's a HD house brand and I own a few HF tools I own the 1/2" earthquake impact which I like but I'm stuck between this husky I just picked up or do I return it (haven't connected it or used it yet) and get the 3/8" air impact.. I have this tool here http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&productId=100678392&navFlow=3&keyword=hstc4005&langId=-1&searchRedirect=hstc4005&storeId=10051&endecaDataBean=com.homedepot.sa.el.wc.integration.endeca.EndecaDataBean%40367370f9&ddkey=THDStoreFinder If it wont show search for HSTC4005

Question here need to do the rear brakes but I tried last night with a hand ratchet with no luck (hit it with PB blaster) My 1/2" impact wrench is too large to fit I think the control arm gets in the way.. would a air ratchet work for me? at least one that's rated for 100 FT-lbs? I did buy a husky one that's rated for 65 Ft lbs but I might spend a little more. I don't know if me using deep impact sockets might be the issue.. I'd have to check in the morning.

the other pad for that caliper was fine.. had to be the pin because it was hard enough to get it out and when I did it was bone dry.. So glad I got that screw bottle of permatex caliper lube! it's hard to tell if my brakes are spongy right now (seems to take more effort with ceramics) but it stops A little bit of the caliper grease got on the rotor face which I tried to clean it as best as I could the bolts for the rear disc are a pain and I already broke one ratchet yesterday (head fell apart husky brand) so the rear's are on really tight.. I did hit it with PB blaster before giving up for the night around 10 pm