1-3-2-4

Don't want to go off topic but do you happen to know the size of stock 95 legacy front rotors.. are they 10 inch?

Ok the verdict is.... No change...

Had to goto to auto zone

is it really called vacuum hose? I was about to start measuring it. At least I know the fpr is still good... *edit 5/32" seems about right.

replaced.. painless except the thin rubber line from the passenger side intake header to what looks to be the fuel pressure regulator just snapped.. SO far it's good no erratic idle as soon as it's done starting.. will check out some more for a longer period of waiting with the car off instead of 5 min. replaced the Rad cap as well. Old sensor old cap

It seems to go to the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manfold? I went to remove it to do my ECTS and it just snapped! the hose away from the heat is still good because it's cooler.. anyways who would have a replacement? Home depot maybe? here are some pics

I hear the bias is more forward right?

does anyone have the ohm values that the sensor should be at? I know one of the many threads someone posted some numbers but I forgot to copy and paste that and save into word. I just want to compare with the new senor here.

I will check for leaks

I've searched here and on google but I've never really found the answer to my question.. what would cause my overflow tank to empty fully after a few weeks? but the level in the radiator is still pretty much the same? way early in the year I replaced my radiator and water pump along with the other stuff we have to do when we have it open.. anyways first of all I used the old cap on the radiator but not sure how old it is (just got a replacement tonight) and I think you need to get any remaining air bubbles out of the car by squeezing the upper hose with the car running right?

if I can remember (tired) I think the water pump has a bypass so it will flow around until it warms up

That is correct.. and I hope someone can chime in about how the flow is with the T-stat open and closed.

From other threads http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67780

fluid comes into the radiator from the top and leaves from the lower hose I'm about 95% sure on that.. now as far as the closed T-stat not too sure about that.

cool i thought this was just for old school... LED'ed my whole dash and was going to do the ECTS but the USPS I guess was too lazy to deliver today... I did buy a new radiator cap since i think the one I have on the car is near about as old as the car.. but new radiator.

flow in the block?

I was thinking of doing something like this but I decided I want to run my current wheels as winter only and they are only 14" so I'd have issues but summer would be 16's

fine job from the USPS.... http://trkcnfrm1.smi.usps.com/PTSInternetWeb/InterLabelInquiry.do?strOrigTrackNum=91019314%209006%200063%207928%2075 mind you I got home at 9:30 AM and I've been home all day long...... No knock, no note, and no door bell ring.

That's what I was thinking too.. http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/43786/article.html

reminds me of the edmunds page I saw yesterday saying it's ok to drive a little ways to the auto parts store without an air filter in so you can make sure you have the right filter...

Do have a point.. any dial one or do or are some better then others?

haha yeah it is the shocker and that's just a 5 HP LEd

Anyone know of a good one? I have a Campbell Hausfeld AU1102 that I got from walmart about 2 years ago.. what I hate about it is one reading shows one pressure (most of the time low) then I check it again without adding anymore air and now it's like 5-10 lbs higher which drives me nuts... I'm thinking about going back to a mechanical gauge.

I think my sensor should be here tomorrow.. question.. does a sparkplug socket fit the sensor? i don't have a deep 19 mm socket.

true.. but I was thinking next year when I paint my car flat black it will look even better. not a bad price and I need wheels and tires now since I've got a slow leak anyways..