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lol he paid me for the tool so I'm going to keep it.. just wish it was a tad smaller..

well that was easy Home now took me a little longer because it was my first time.. I started at around 12 pm and was done around 5:35 I had a hard time putting the spring clips back on.. not so hard to take off I think I spent like almost 25 min each and the passenger side I had to be creative. went for a little drive and it was good. He took back those autozone axles any other work on the forester he's going to call me and glad I lugged my Air compressor with me plus I wanted to see if it would fit in the back seat anyways for when I do that 350 mile drive. the sucky part was I did not get to go to harbor Freight to get the spring clip tool so I had to go to Home Depot and they wanted $21 for the channel lock brand one which I thought was a big rip... pictures when I get back.

the passenger side is a little harder because of the exhaust in the way I did get the cup off but figuring out how to get the spring clip off is going to be tricky my spring clip tool is a little big

wow this is almost too easy..... I will swap the tri pot to the other side

yeah the punch I knew about and the pin I found out on my own by cleaning out the grime. is the tri pot going to be hard to get off? and is it needed to mark alignment marks on them?

here at his house now does it matter which way I drive the pin out?

He did get the boots (I have to go pick them up) I'm looking in my haynes manual right now is it at all possible to remove the inner CV without having to take out the lower balljoint? I just have a pickle fork and that will kill it instant. Also the other question is the boot spreader they don't talk about this in the book and I guess I would need a snap ring remover to take the ring off that holds the cage in? The rest seems pretty easy.

not at slow speed but at high speed yes anything above 60 MPH on or off throttle. could be the belts since the tires are about end of life I did not think about that and I was driving to pick up a desk chair and I was passing a long wall at around 70 MPH and the sound of it gets a little drowned out at speed but it does not really seem to get all that faster which points to something that is of a large diameter like the tire. But yeah the way you said it sounds like what I hear a squishing rubber type of sound.

I guess this guy is shy I sent him the link twice so he was telling today at work how auto zone did not have the boots but advance did and he checked NAPA and they said why not just replace the whole axle. I'm still in favor of the boot.

Or maybe the rear? Until it stops raining and I can drive along side a wall the closest sound I can describe it to is someone walking inside with wet shoes. Maybe the first few rotations it wont make any sound but it happens no matter if you are hard on the brakes or not.. I also noticed it's not as loud when backing up.

Just type in MWE axles in google from what I understand the guy rebuilds OEM Subaru Axles (you send yours in as a core) Most everyone holds the MWE CV's in high regard.

in the event that it's my CV's who offers quality replacements that wont go to crap like these remans? I haven't picked up jackstands for the rear since I'm broke from vacation but I'm 90% sure it's one of the axles because of vibration in my wheels and it does not change when you rotate the tires.

Well I don't know if he is going to respond here as he was at work, He asked me where should he get the axles from.. He was hoping to have this done on Saturday. I'm still in favor of new boot and grease packed in the splatter was not bad at all so it must of just happened.

I will send him the link and hopefully he will respond.

He did not have to pay a core charge on the axles and He does not know for sure how long it was torn he said he went to check the oil one day and he noticed it. I said to him wow you did not smell anything burning from the side with the cat? he was like no not at all.

Thats why I suggested that he stick with the OEM that was already on the car.. at least it was only the inners that ripped. I know both stores sell nothing but those A1 Cardone CV's

I only have a factory service manual for my 95 but putting swapping axles from the forester to my car aside I still need to remove the tone ring from the forester just for new axles? At least the car is not rusty. I think the spec for the axle nut is like something 130-135 ft.lbs?

tone ring on the axle? you are not talking about the ABS tone ring are you?

Those bent rod versions look so cheesy When i buy mine I was just going to get the alloy version.. speaking of that what place has the best price for front and rear?

ah forget it.. I spoke to the guy today I guess he was doubting me so he asked another guy and he said you should just replaced the whole axle so he ran to Autozone and picked up two axles for $59 each.. Any guesses on how long they will last for? having said that will his axles on his 02 Forester S work on my 95 Legacy? His forester is a AT and my car is a MT I can't remember is something changed as far as the stubs.. I want to say yes but I can't remember 100%

That's gotta be like a rare model I've never seen one in person.. does it still have the Alpine stuff on the side?

yeah I was looking at that question I'm not totally sure what my car runs stock (95 Legacy L wagon) you get a handful of understeer in the wet and giving it a little gas gets you nowhere.

I would keep the whole strut assembly as one would the forester struts provide more lift then an outback?

Yep I got that all worked out I purged them again day before yesterday as they have been in the closet upright since I got them. I also cut the notch in the side with my air cutter for the brake line the day I got them. I was asking a few months ago making sure like 4 times to make sure WRX lowering springs would work with my tophats. Since I'm going to go a good deal lower When I want to have some offroad fun I was thinking would it be a hassle to keep Outback struts on hand when I want to raise the car?

brake bleeder screw is 10 mm x 1.0 thread? Seems about what I remember will be nice to pain the calipers plus bleed the brakes at the same time.