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it's really hard to say but I'm 80% sure it's the drivers side I'm sure it would do it at all speeds but really happens at low speeds like 0-40 MPH because of the needing to shift and pushing the clutch in which relaxes the drivetrain. I'm about to step out here so I'm going to see if I can get some type of sound clip.

wow the control arm is bendable? I need new bushing on my end links or rather new endlinks period.. wow is that some cracked rubber.

first of all the tie rod was shot.. I declined to take a picture because I felt it was not worth it.. but being able to move the rod in up and down in the socket is no good.. plus the boot had been long torn.. Brakes are fine I'm done with those.. Clunk happens if I say snap the throttle close on acceleration Or anything that causes the car to shake front and backwards like a poor shift down. Also I get the vibration in the wheel which I thought it was a bad OFB wheel but I swapped back to front and it still existed. I'm going to try again to get a sound clip maybe if I do pick up something I can amplify it.

i was using a pickle fork on the balljoint

Just an update I replaced both inner and outer tie rods and both balljoints and I still have the clunk and vibration in the wheel. I've been trying to get a sound file but it's not very audible in the car with my mic and in the engine bay the engine is too loud.

damn my aliment is off I think I threaded one too many turns on the passenger side to drive straight I have to turn the steering wheel slight to the left. Good thing I have old tires I don't care about

I got Mevotech (sp) here are the pictures passenger side spent almost 2 hours trying to get the driver's side out in place

I replaced the driver's side like a month ago and I did the passenger side today along with both ball joints.

nah I'm going to be using nason paint

finally got the damn lower balljoints out!! friken balljoints were pretty much rusted in place.. I was jumping up and down on my picklefork.. heat did help get it out. having said that my aliment is off now.. drivers side I did my eyesight which was pretty much spot on but not so with the passenger side.

Yeah I will be painting the car flat black next year maybe around fall.

Ok got the passgener side out.. Rust belt sucks when it finally broke free I thought I broke something

I removed the lower bolt for the front endlink and moved that out of the way.. removed the pinch bolt.. removed the castle nut for the balljoint.. Now how do I get this thing out?? It's like glued to the control arm.. I have a ball joint separator and I stood on the bar and it still wont move.

holy crap... and no passenger mirror? I never knew that that was an option..

I know what you mean about those packs of grease.. that's why I picked up the screw on bottle type because I knew I would not have enough (learned with my impreza) it's nice not to get brake judder anymore.

man I'd go if I did not have a slow leak in my left front tire

I've got like 227,490 or so

wow that's not bad looking at all

thanks for the tip on the torch.. I don't use this that much I've had this tank for at least 3-4 years and still have a decent amount left.. the rubber boot never caught on fire yesterday but the PB blaster did flame up but nothing that blowing it out could not handle. I noticed when i got on the highway yesterday anything over like 70 MPH I got some crazy wheel vibration coming from the rear of the car but It has not come back again yet.. maybe it was because of the brake pad and how it was wearing on the rotor with a stuck caliper? These ceramics stop much better then my last pads.. I'm sure they were semi-metallic pads.

I was going to use it on the impreza which had rear drum brakes but never got around to it before I junked it. I think I will do the vice grips if I can find my smaller tipped one.

What year? I'm scared to take my door panel off I remember back in 1999 having to do it on my Nissan Maxima and what a pain it was to get back on..

since we are talking about steelies has anyone ever bothered to paint them?

I think the cable is suck or not moving freely at the hub because if I adjust the star wheel just enough that when I slide the rotor back on the shoes are in contact with the rotor and then turn it 2 more times and pull the e brake the wheel will still turn. I think my brake hold down spring tool is too large for the springs? It looks like this but has a red handle http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4591/?rtype=10

got that stuck caliper pin out with some crazy work but it finally came out.. things I need to do is get my struts installed before winter because riding on snow with blown struts this past snow season was something else..

haha and I wondered who would use such a tiny extension... had to make a youtube clip of it Oh yeah when I took it out 100% no grease on it at all.