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Well at least we are on the same page now.. From what I understand the strut mounts should have some type of dot or whatever for proper placement?

Hmm how much is the keyless entryI never knew which fit my model.. I have a 95 as well with power door locks.. so anything in the 95-99 range works?

That's pretty dangerous..

My car is at 232K and it still shifts great only thing I need to do is replace the shifter knuckle because the bushing is shot. I never liked the paddle shifters on any car

I stand corrected then

the car had no oil slicks my 95 impreza had transmission problems.. I lost reverse I'm more then happen with my MT now

it failed because the front diff ran dry because it leaked.. it was a 2003 Forester XS that I miss big time. besides that I don't want another AT after all that

the nail sized thing you are talking about sounds like the roll pin? Nevertheless it should be flush on both sides of the CV it should not be missing or pushed out.

I had a 4EAT that I broke the front diff on and the car would not move at all.

I thought it's called parking paw and not pall

hmm well try what nipper said.. the longest I've had to wait when i first got the car was about 10 secs to purge the line of air.

I'm talking about the bump stops.. look on page 2 it's so the strut wont bottom out. I had planned to order 4 new today from rockauto but something came up.

I have to watch out coming out of driveways where they have a dip because most of the time the bumper hits or the front tow hooks.. that used to happen a lot when I had my 95 impreza.. went to town hall and forgot kept rolling forward and BANG! lol everyone looked. I'm hoping my wheel shimmy is because of the strut or bad tie. I wont get my tires mounted until next week or week after next, I sure as hell don't want to do it now with my toe out of adjustment.. I have to have my wheel like 30 degrees to the left to go straight haha the winter tires would be gone in no time

defrost can turn the fans on.. having the A/C button pressed will turn the fans on.. report back when you check.. it would be better to hook a live scanner up and see what the ECT is showing a reading of after sitting over 24 Hr.. lol if it's maxed out at over 220 F when it's 32F outside then you have a problem

haha I'm finally replacing my blown struts tomorrow it looks like.. at 232 (almost 233) I think all 4 are gone. I get some serious wheel hop from the left rear corner if powering up a ramp at wot.. I'm hoping downshifts wont feel so jerky in the car now.. almost any bump and the rear end now is like bouncing for like 3 seconds lmao. in the summer I might be looking for forester struts but not for long term

No you have enough fluid in the tank? I find when it's too low the front will still work (pump longer in tank) but the rear will not. Now since you made this thread I hate this rear washer.. I prefer the spray to be from top to bottom not bottom spraying up.

So I'm going to do the struts tomorrow.. because im pressed for time can I just reuse the bump stop until spring?

How did everything go did you ever get to change it out?

Dont you hate when it gets dark early now

the 13's are 5 Lugs I used to have a 95 imrpreza FWD and yes the tire size is hard to find anything on it... That's one subaru I don't really miss at all..

it's called FB25 now? I'm going to have Ej25 stuck in my head forever

why would it be buggy? They do a lot of engine testing (hours) before they just stick it in the car.

I'm friken lost.. are you saying it ran better with the Green and black connections under the dash disconnected? If so those are not meant to be plugged in they are for reading codes.

Not sure what style IAC you have but I did half a can of sea foam on mine which never worked and had any change.. so I picked up a can of carb cleaner and used the whole can on the IAC making sure the inside, back shutter area and the inside hose were all clean and that fixed my idle issue but mine was only when the car was warm and it was not really an idle issue.

Wow did not know they were out now