1-3-2-4

yeah the 1 ton version

Question will this fit (assembled) in the back of an outback wagon? I can't see why it can't but I don't think I ever saw the height of it anyplace.

my 95 legacy had a low fuel light.. matter of fact I saw it many of times heh it wont come on until it a little under the empty line.. my current outback it comes on much sooner then the 95

I was just wondering about the mounts because on NASIOC they were like they wear out and new mounts help and all that. I feel better knowing about the cam now, Anyone know of a good degreaser? With that front crank seal leaking it's a battle.. When the engine is out I don't need to support the transmission do I? I know the engine tends to pitch forward if you remove the tranny but not sure the other way around. hopefully the dealer will have some in stock tomorrow (head gaskets(

Uhmm yeah EJ25D I was just wondering because I was looking at some endwrench stuff and they said if the valves hit each other (intake & exhaust) that's a bad thing.. I know when i did my TB on my Ej22 I remember trying to get the driver's side cam to stay at the mark for alignment .. I'm not sure if the endwrench was just being overly careful but i don't remember seeing any of that wording in the FSM for the outback. I'm pretty sure without a doubt my mounts are way oil soaked because of the rear Separator plate. Also disconnecting the wire harness most of them are on the passenger side on the tranny bell housing area? from what most I can see it's not really all that much to disconnect but it never hurts to label things. and yes pulling motor.

As you may or may not know my car has been overheating on slight hill grades and so on and over pressurizing the radiator dumping coolant into the overflow bottle. Anyways long story sometime this month I want to gather everything I need or possibly need for doing the headgaskets. I think at the dealer the gaskets are like around $86 or so?? Does anyone have a side view of the gaskets? I have no clue if the current gaskets on my car are original (234K) but the gasket at the top looks pretty ragged.. While I have the heads off I'm going to check valve clearance and do the valve cover gasket and the separator plate Since I have the intake manifold off do those gaskets as well.... Anything else I missed? My only concern is the driver side cams I need to remove them to replace the seals on them and first of all I want to make sure that when I remove the timing belt it's not going to snap one cam and hit one of the valves.. Do I need to get the cam locking tool? I'm trying to figure what can I hold the cam with while I use the impact on the cam? Oh and since I'm going all this the normal timing belt and water pump will be changed along with the other stuff that goes along with that.. I will check the back of the oil pump for the screws. One question.. Should I change the motor mounts?? and if so do the automatic and manual use the same mounts or not?

I hope I can make it out one day it was fun last year when I went minus getting a wet ECU flooded with muddy water! the outback should be better but i gotta pull the motor very soon and get the tranny done.

Just an update she had those parts replaced and she says the car is working great now

LOL yah it has one.. also the AC button switch does as too.. but the dealer says it's not a replaceable light.. but if you take it out and look it's nothing but a twist lock like the air controls.. mine has not blown out yet which is rare.. but at least I know I can change it now..

I can't say but i figure it might be hard to see it?

Led's from superbrightleds.com and it's the NEO3X the high powered one. need 3 of them.

I thought about this.. what about replacing the upper support bar? Ah wait seems like I'd need to drill out the spot welds?

Has anyone put a magnaflow exhaust on a car? is the stainless steel .045" I can't seem to find any specs on it

Not so sure it's pushed in because I think the bracket that goes down on the radiator bracket (the silver part) it would have a gap, no? it's obvious it's pushed down but given the gap just pushing it back up is not going to be enough and I don't want to push it forward if that's not the case.

Is the muffler stainless steel?

I got mine from ebay really cheap 24" wide roll http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280642821952&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT holding up great and I would of never thought I would get a lot of looks from it.. with the lights on every time I pass someone I always see them look down at the lights I got to use them in some real heavy PA fog and they really did help cut the fog (I know stock lights don't get love)

yep thats what I've been doing.. and I've been doing some thinking thats pretty much how they killed the tranny on this car.. the first 3 weeks I had this car it was drinking the transmission fluid now it's stopped but the damage has already been done.

hmm I swear the other side has the same looking crease but I will check in the morning.

Is that a joke lol...

I think the rotor might be toast now.. not sure.. but it's odd say you are driving it will shake and shake.. thump thump thump then it smooths out until you hit the brakes again.. odd that it started up all of a sudden.. I hate to do it but Monday I will check if I can get the damn pin out..

I went to check quicky this morning its hard to tell whats not right. I would check later when im not dressedu up

Yeah this is crazy... Hopfully I will hear more back from her today

its the pax front I guess when the last owner did the brakes they did not grease the slider pin.. Hopfully I can save it. Im sure the brake fluid is no good now.. Might as well do the pads and rotors next week.

Has anyone seen this before sometimes it happens and sometimes not?

the support is it connected to the screw that's behind the front grill?